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[Photographs: Kathy YL Chan]

When we last visited Vosges Haut Chocolate in Soho, a little schmoozing let us in on a secret: not only would Vosges be carrying a late-to-arrive Valentines special filled with aphrodisiac truffles, but one of the top-secret flavors would involve white chocolate ganache steeped with Kumamoto oysters. Curious? So were we.

Let's make something clear: This isn't the kind of chocolate that you eat by the box after a rough day. This is chocolate to eat and think about, chocolate to approach thoughtfully—whether or not one loves the results. So Kathy and I joined forces—we'll call ourselves the Intrepid Chocolate Warriors—-and tackled the admittedly scary oyster truffles, along with their similarly aphrodisiac-infused friends.

Not all the truffles were quite as intimidating as the sole white one. The Bronte, made with Sicilian pistachio paste, rose water, and 45% milk chocolate, had nice aromatic and floral notes that were counterbalanced with the pistachio's subtle saltiness. Neither of the two additions was too pronounced, and though neither of us is overly enthusiastic about milk chocolate, this one was deeper than most, leaning almost into dark territory.

Next up was the Xocatyl, 41% milk chocolate spiked with Mexican vanilla bean. It's what you expect in a chocolate and vanilla pairing, though this one may have been a bit too strong on the vanilla. Approachable, but dull.

And so we moved on to some more interesting competitors. The Mamajuana was familiar to us—just like last time, we loved the combo of red wine and herbs mixed into the ganache.

The Edith was pretty to look at, but we had mixed feelings on taste. Inside, Piper Heidsieck Rose Sauvage Champagne and crushed rosebud tea were mixed into the dark chocolate ganache, which seems like a perfect formula for success—what girl doesn't love champagne, flowers, and chocolate all in one package? Too bad it was rolled in a layer of petals that overwhelmed the rest. (We peeled it off and found the inside to be quite tasty on its own).

Chocolate and chili isn't a particularly novel combination these days but the Red Fire's familiar flavors of ancho chillies and Ceylon cinnamon would be a good starting point for those who still haven't gone there. As with most things ancho, it's the kind of heat that eases in and hits you at the back of the palate. The cinnamon is a nice addition, rounding out spice with sweetness.

The Oaxaca was chili chocolate of a whole different dimension. Most boxes could do with just one spicy truffle, and though both were tasty, we'd pick this one. Subbing more common chilis with the less explored Mexican guajillo and pasilla varieties, this one had a burst of flavor that kept going the whole way through. The touch of crushed pumpkin seeds on the outer shell worked well to temper the heat and add crunch, too.

I'm a fan of herbs like basil and mint in my chocolate, but I'm often wary of fennel. In the case of the Absinthe truffle, it's paired with Chinese star anise and pastis, which I feared would be total overkill. It's not.

All that was left was the Kumamoto, white chocolate with oysters and pearl dust, a clever but formidable treat. If we hadn't known the white chocolate had been blended with oysters, we wouldn't have necessarily picked out the taste, but if you're looking for it, it's unmistakable: the salty, briny sea flavors work with the sweeter white chocolate ganache for a much different rendition on the salty/sweet combo. It may not catch on as quickly as bacon chocolate, but it's one way to add a little adventure to your Valentine's Day.

The Vosges Sweet Coquette Collection is available in a signature heart-shaped box for $45.

Previously: A Closer Look at Vosges Haut Chocolate

Vosges Haut Chocolate

132 Spring Street, New York NY 10012 (map)
212-625-2929
www.vosgeschocolate.com