Slideshow: Torrisi Italian Specialties: Chicken Parm and Turkey Sandwiches For the Gods

House Roasted Turkey at Parm
House Roasted Turkey at Parm
Generally speaking, turkey on a roll is a dry, bland affair; not so at Parm, where their turkey is marinated in honey, garlic, and herbs, and slow roasted until the turkey is tender and succulent with more than a little garlic kick. This is one of the best turkey sandwiches we've ever encountered.

Parm: 248 Mulberry Street, New York NY 10012 (map); 212-993-7189; parmnyc.com

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Chicken Parm
Chicken Parm
For me the gold standard of chicken Parmesan is the sandwich Mary Lou Cappeza served at the late, great Corona Heights Pork store. The Torrisi's version comes perilously close. Why? The chicken cutlets are fried in good old Progresso bread crumbs, then topped with slices of housemade mozzarella and long-simmered tomato sauce seasoned with fresh basil. The sandwich's secret weapon here is the soft Parisi semolina roll, which makes a perfect foil for the crispy chicken cutlet.
Potato and egg
Potato and egg
I have always found potato and egg sandwiches pretty boring. But here, where it's made with sauteed new potatoes, softly scrambled eggs, roasted peppers, and melted provolone, all on one of the Parisi semolina rolls, it's an exciting combination.
Lasagna
Lasagna
Their delicious lasagna, in the words of Torrone: "Italian-American, not traditional Bolognese. It's a recipe from Carbone's grandmother, made with sheets of fresh pasta (semolina and whole eggs), ricotta, fresh mozzarella, basil, and meat sauce. We use Esposito's sweet sausage along with ground beef and veal. The meats are left in larger chunks and the ragu isn't cooked for nearly as long."
Sweet and sour eggplant relish
Sweet and sour eggplant relish
It tastes suspiciously like caponata, but whatever it is, it's delicious. Toasted eggplant, peppers, zucchini, fennel, and celery, with a soffrito of anchovies, garlic, cocoa powder, golden raisins and pinenuts. Finished with agrodolce and tomato.
Potatoes and Pepperoni
Potatoes and Pepperoni
The German-Italian-American potato salad of my dreams. Torrisi says: "The pepperoni is ground and rendered off and some chili flakes and sage is bloomed into it. It's tossed with the warm potatoes with some extra virgin and pickled shallots."
Idaho Carona beans
Idaho Carona beans
Creamy but cooked through, Carona beans with bacon again show the skill in this kitchen. They cook the American-grown beans slowly in vegetable stock and then toss them with Schaller and Weber bacon, thyme, bay, and chili, and DaVero olive oil.
Fresh mozzarella
Fresh mozzarella
Carbone make the fresh mozzarella ($8 a pound) every morning. It tastes great on any sandwich here, but it may taste even better as a starter served with California olive oil and sea salt.
Fresh Ricotta
Fresh Ricotta
As an alternative to the mozzarella, consider the locally sourced fresh ricotta ($7/pound) whipped with a touch of fresh cream and served with sea salt and thyme.
Sesame cookies
Sesame cookies
Three for fifty cents, they're made with tahini and dotted with black and white sesame seeds, and baked until they are golden brown. The result tastes something like toasted nuts.
Coffee cake
Coffee cake
What's a delicious, moist sour cream coffee cake ($2) doing on an Italian sandwich shop menu? "This is the cake your family would bring over for 'coffee and cake,'" they told me. Responsible for these surprising desserts is Katherine Beto-Albanese, a manager here who is a former pastry sous chef at wd-50.