Lunch for One: Maximo Pino

[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Maximo Pino, a Italian gelateria and pizza shop, opened just last week on the corner of 13th Street and 6th Avenue. Whether because of opening coverage, or whether because of the pedestrian traffic, it has been constantly busy since opening to the public. Expect a somewhat pricey, quick-service lunch—but, in my opinion, not a particularly good one.
Pictured above is the Pizza Capricciosa ($12.50), made to order with the Maximo Pino Sauce. I inquired as to the difference between that and the "normal" tomato sauce; the girl behind the counter could only offer that "the Maximo Pino Sauce is much more flavorful." Indeed it was flavorful, a touch spicy, but everything else was downhill from there. My pizza came with a lackluster spread of the standards attributed to a Capricciosa: artichokes, ham, sliced olives and black mushrooms. The crust was akin to brittle cardboard—more like a thick cracker than anything else.

The gelato ($4.90 for a small) is simultaneously sticky and wet—two words that should never be used to describe gelato. The pistachio, my benchmark for judging gelato, is an over-sugared shame; if you must partake, go for the chocolate-based flavors. But it's better to save yourself the money and calories and head down to nearby L'arte del Gelato for excellent gelato. The hot chocolate here is also sickly sweet, and there's no need to settle for sub-par chocolate when City Bakery is also close by. The ordering system is frenzied; there are organization kinks that need to be worked out—but even before that, Maximo Pino ought to get the food straight.
Maximo Pino
504 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
646-360-4143
maximopino.com
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