[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]

If you hadn't heard of last week's brunch treat, Resto's Dutch Baby, here's another global pancake that may be new to you: the kaiserschmarrn. It shares the Dutch Baby's Germanic roots (hailing from Austria), but the comparisons basically end there. Where the Dutch Baby is flatter than a regular pancake, this one is fluffier; if the former is one huge surface, this is torn up into lots of cakey crumbles. But they're both deliciously unique.

I've never seen a kaiserschmarrn before, so when I found it on Blaue Gans' brunch menu ($9), I knew it was time to do some investigating. Not only is the dough lightly sweet and satisfying in its own right, but it's served with a tart plum compote that I eagerly smothered on every bite. The portion's a little on the small side, but Blaue Gans serves their bread with a fabulous sundried tomato-infused cheese spread that'll easily fill you up a bit further. Add to that a few rashers of bacon, and it's a delicious, filling brunch.

Blaue Gans

139 Duane Street New York, NY 10013
212-571-8880
www.wallse.com