Week In Reviews: Best Bites

While questioning the redesign of SD26, Sifton adores many of Odette Fada's dishes, including the "candele with cauliflower, saffron, pine nuts and anchovy oil that sits astride the cauliflower-anchovy axis like a king, evoking the very essence of great Italian cooking." [ Sifton; NYT]
Cascabel's chorizo taco is "made with four types of chiles is the star--crumbly and delectably smoky"; La Lucha's best tacos are "juicy pulled pork and a toothsome poblano pepper and Oaxaca cheese." [ Raisfeld and Patronite; NYM]
Thompson's favorite dish at The Vanderbilt: "roasted Brussels sprouts, dressed with sriracha, lime, and honey, each bite a perfect combination of sweet, spicy, and tart." [Thompson; New Yorker]
The best of Saltie's "curious, if messy" sandwiches is the "ship's biscuit," whose "filling roughly mixes runny half-scrambled eggs and bone-white ricotta; the cheese is so fresh it tastes like a cow must be parked in the kitchen." [Sietsema; VV]
Casa Lever is about the scene "much more than the kitchen," at the kitchen's expense, though memorable desserts include "a sort of upmarket Kit Kat with gianduia mousse and a praline crunch under a whisper-thin chocolate shell." [Cheshes; TONY]

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