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Week In Reviews: Best Bites
- Sifton files on Jeffrey Chodorow's newest restaurants, with one star for the "perfectly good quasi-Asian fare" at Tanuki Tavern but none for inconsistent, "less pulchritudinous " Ed's Chowder House. [Sifton; NYT]
- Le Caprice "is intended less to dazzle than to please," and Platt is quite pleased by dishes including the "veal chop, smothered in a sweet, beefy veal glaze and piled with cipollini onions and sautéed chanterelles." [Platt; NYM]
- Shauna Lyon pays a visit to Permanent Brunch and, surprise, finds that the "food may or may not be worth the wait," though "biscuits, paired with house-made strawberry jam... are as reliable as the Q train, buttery, tender, with a moist crumb, a little crunchy on the outside." [Lyon; New Yorker]
- "The food at the Vanderbilt is splendid," writes Sietsema, "with perfect charcuterie," including "succulent boudin blanc" and "pungently smoked kielbasy." [Sietsema; VV]
- Richman picks up the pen at "two potentially delightful establishments where I might be perceived as less than objective"—L'Ecole, "one of the most enjoyable and economical spots in Manhattan to pursue the glorious trinity of wine, bread, and cheese," and new wine bar Ardesia, whose wine list has "something for everybody" but whose fare ranges from pleasing to poor. [Richman; GQ]
- Cuozzo finds Casa Lever "a higher-end, well-oiled Fiat of a restaurant" with many serviceable dishes but "nighttime fish and meat prices [that] are batty." [Cuozzo; NYP]
- The Tipsy Parson is a "Dixieland fantasy," where the "dazzling vegetable fry-up" is "a sort of Deep South fritto misto, is a great shareable mound of whatever's in season." [Cheshes; TONY]
