[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]

Hanukkah may be nearly over, but at Trestle on Tenth, the fried potato pancake is a brunch staple year round. It's not altogether Kosher, nor is it in any way derived from the seasonal Jewish treat, but that's not a bad thing—the Swiss-inspired Bure Rosti gets a hearty (if artery-clogging) heaping of homemade pork sausage, melted cheese, and two eggs over easy that put a satisfying spin on your average order of breakfast potatoes.

If the description doesn't sell it, this dish has all sorts of textural interest that I kept coming back to. The bottom layer alone had tons going on: chunks of translucent onion and crispy bacon cooked into the rosti, crispy potatoes on the pancake's thick exterior, and soft ones on the inside. On top, the pork sausage had a great bite to it, with a simple flavor of fresh pepper that really came through. Though there wasn't much cheese on the plate, I wasn't complaining—the richness of the egg yolks rendered it unnecessary, anyway.


Don't miss Trestle's sticky buns, one of the best deals I've found at brunch thus far. This order of 3threecame out to just $3.50, and though they're not my absolute favorites, they're pretty darn good. Not too sweet, with hints of apple in the batter that kick that seasonal craving.

Trestle on Tenth

242 10th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 (map)


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