Week in Reviews: Best Bites

Posted by Carey Jones, November 11, 2009 at 9:00 AM

• Sifton declares Aureole "meh," while raving about "an extremely good hamburger... a big two-hander of rich beef, white Cheddar, applewood-smoked bacon and a pickled-ramp dressing that gives plain mayonnaise a run for its money." [Sifton; NYT]
• Platt declares the cooking at A Voce Columbus a "real revelation... [Missy Robbins] has a knack for taking simple Italian basics and elevating them to a different plane." The first starter? "A block of house-cured baccalà, which was barely salty at all and so soft it came apart in a delicate little soup of pine nuts and olives when you touched it with your fork." [Platt; NYM]
• Prime Meats "is bound to delight the Franks' fans," though "if there's a weak link, it's the food." One of the better dishes: "Trout arrives in splendidly crispy fillets, topped with finely grated horseradish." [Carey; New Yorker]
• At Abe and Arthur's, "the best [dishes], paradoxically, have French underpinnings. We oohed and aahed when our chicken liver mousse floated in on a plank of distressed wood." [Sietsema; VV]
• Tony May restyled San Domenico into SD26, "either convoluted/newfangled or fresh/contemporary," with successful guinea hen, snapper, and gnocchi with chicken livers. [Richman; GQ]
• Cuozzo gets to Bill's Bar and Burger and declares that a "classic burger doesn't get better than this for $5.95—a flat patty of flavorful beef loosely packed and fatty enough to retain moisture on a seeded bun." He rates a number of other burgers as well. [Cuzzo; NYP]
• SD26 "bears [Marisa May's] youthful imprint," with standout dishes including "lush pumpkin gnocchi in a chicken-liver-and-fried-sage ragù... listed beside a butter-drenched raviolo, a San Domenico signature dish--and still one of New York's finest pastas--oozing yolk." [Cheshes; TONY]

Post a Comment Favorite this!  (0)

Tags: Week in Reviews