The Zuccharinos ($3.75) at Locanda Verde lie at the perfect intersection of doughnut and a soft sugar cake. Baked, not fried, it does not intend to mimic a doughnut, yet it delivers all the flavor and nuances of one. Liberally dusted in a shower of cinnamon-sugar, the exterior is a deep golden brown and crisp. And inside? Simultaneously moist and light—almost powdery, yet tender.