[Photos: Kathy Chan]

Ice cream at Lulu & Mooky's liquid nitrogen ice cream on the Lower East Side works something like this.

First, take a look at the menu. Note the sheer number of options—more than 10,000 combinations, according to the owner.

The menu is divided in to regular and premium flavors, made from fresh fruit and herbs. Regular flavors run you $4, and the premium flavors are $5. Mix and match as you please. If all the options are overwhelming, just check out the little index cards on the counter with favorite combinations chosen by customers. Apricot, rosemary, mint, grape, cinnamon, garlic-salt, they've got it all.

The magic, after the jump.

And now for the fun part. The ice cream base, along with spices, herbs, fruit, and anything you've selected, are poured into a pink Kitchenaid. Then they pour in the liquid nitrogen, a foggy mass, and in barely thirty seconds, ta-dah!

Your ice cream. Smooth, dense and velvety. I opted for a mango and honey mix, a "safe" combination considering your options, but a very lovely and satisfying one. Lulu & Mooky's will not replace a gelato craving, nor that for "real" ice cream, but it's a mighty entertaining visit, and a place I'd gladly return to.

Lulu And Mooky's Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream

129 Allen Street, New York NY 10002 (map)