Serious Eats: New York

Posted by Carey Jones, November 4, 2009

While there's not much of a menu, the starring steak at Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôtes "is fine, sliced thin across the grain and as tender as cheap meat gets, a perfect midweek dinner with a friend." [Sifton; NYT]
At Brooklyn's "seductive" Saraghina, the "mussels tasted so fresh and simple that they might have been steamed in seawater." [Byock; New Yorker]
The whole pink snapper at Ambiance in Canarsie "can be had fried or fricasséed. The fried is seafood perfection, flaunting the crispest skin imaginable, without a trace of breading." [Sietsema; VV]
Just reopened, Charles' Country Pan Fried Chicken turns out fried chicken that's "sweet, with a hint of spice, and absurdly juicy." [Richman; GQ]
"Odd but compelling," Ed's Chowder House serves a "potato chip-crusted Chatham cod" whose Cape Cod chips "cracklingly complement the delicate fish." [Cuozzo; NYP]
Cheshes finds Ed Brown's talent wasted, the title chowders "thick, rich and lavishly seasoned—if completely straightforward." [Cheshes; TONY]

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