Serious Eats: New York
The Brunch Dish: Grilled Sambal Prawns with Scrambled Eggs at Double Crown
Dosas may be the popular choice for Indian brunch in Curry Hill, but the Bowery's Indian-inspired Double Crown takes a totally different approach. Drawing from the historic blending of English and Southeast Asian cuisines, Double Crown's brunch has a refined culinary point of view that comes across clearly in all its dishes. Of those I've tried, my favorite is the Grilled Sambal Prawns with Scrambled Eggs, which gets a robust hit of flavor from the traditional chili jam—a condiment, somewhat ironically, that's typically served with dosas).
Surprisingly, though, it's the eggs and not the prawns that absorb most of the spice from the sambal. It's a comfortable heat that develops without overpowering, often balanced by the fine sprigs of cilantro strewn over the dish. The prawns—giant, whole, and grilled to a deliciously sticky, caramelized point—are definitely an unusual brunch protein, but their sheer size makes them hearty enough to stand up to the eggs and toast alongside them, while their delicate sweetness adds the kind of complexity you'd expect from a dinner entree.
Walk in to the restaurant and you'll see something interesting—bowls of cucumber, peppers, cilantro, lemons, limes, and more, all alongside bottles of sriracha, tomato juice, and other such squirt-ables. It's a make-your-own-Bloody Mary bar, with all the traditional accoutrements as well as a few oddities. Mary lovers, you're in for a treat, but beware, the service can be mighty slow if you come late enough to sidestep the otherwise long waits. (The truth is, though, it's worth it!)
Double Crown
316 Bowery, New York NY 10012 (map)
212-254-0350
doublecrown-nyc.com