PrintChocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Midtown(ish) Edition
"The people have spoken. And City Bakery is no longer their cookie of choice."
[Photos: Robyn Lee and Sophie Finkelstein]
Moving Onto The Next Round:
Max Brenner
Pret a Manger (yes, really)
Last week in the Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship, we went uptown to find the best chocolate chip cookies on the Upper East and Upper West Sides. Having found our favorites, we're now moving to Midtown—between Union Square and 60th Street.*
In this round, there were formidable contenders and surprising upsets: disappointing frontrunners, dark horses, and a chain thrown into the mix.
Our eight contestants: City Bakery, Pret a Manger, Max Brenner, Petrossian, Ruby et Violette, Frankie's (at Stumptown), and Times Square Hot Bagels.
The best chocolate chip cookie in Midtown, after the jump.
*Okay, this isn't all Midtown. But do we really need separate Hell's Kitchen, Murray Hill, Gramercy, Flatiron, and Chelsea cookie tastings? We're sticking with "Midtown-ish."
The "Why Bother?" Cookies
Okay, Frankie's and Stumptown. We love your olive oil cake. We're fans of your stout cake. But please, please improve your chocolate chip cookie game. "You can hardly taste the chocolate." "The texture is so mealy—like a supermarket cookie." Summed up? "I bet I could make a better cookie. With cardboard."
Sold at Stumptown Coffee: 20 West 29th Street (map), 212-679-2222
You said "Times Square Hot Bagels!", and we listened. And tasted. But we found nothing to love about these cookies. "Tough and unpleasant." "Neither crisp nor crunchy nor moist." And, the consensus was, "just stale-tasting."
Times Square Hot Bagels: 200 West 44th Street (map), 212-997-7300
The "Great Effort!" Vegan Cookie
City Bakery does two chocolate chip cookies—the buttery ones, and the vegan ones. And while the vegan chocolate chippers didn't crack the top 3, they did pretty well, and only one taster called them out as dairy-free. They were called "crisp," "nicely gooey in the middle," and "just sweet enough." Several people complained about the "crumbly structure" and lack of chocolate. But for a vegan cookie, this is almost as good as it gets.
City Bakery: 3 West 18th Street (map), 212-366-1414, thecitybakery.com
The Huge Disappointment
All right—here goes. We're going to take a beating for this one.
If you'd asked us to wager on the winner of this taste-test, I would have stacked my chips on City Bakery. Honestly, it would have been my bet to win the whole thing. At least a few tasters had identified as CB loyalists. But not a single one of our tasters put City Bakery in their top two.
A few representative comments? "Harmless, and not terrible, but given the choice you wouldn't eat it." "Sweet without any actual flavor." "An overwhelming amount of chocolate." "Some of the edges are actually burnt. Not nice-dark-crispy-caramelized. Burnt." And the discernible grains of sugar were a little strange.
A few people liked the crispy-chewy contrast, and the layering of chocolate that snuck a little into each bite. But no one really loved this cookie.
Did we get an off day? (I certainly remember these cookies tasting an awful lot better.) Has the venerable City Bakery gone downhill? We're not sure. But the people have spoken. And City Bakery is no longer their cookie of choice.
City Bakery: 3 West 18th Street (map), 212-366-1414, thecitybakery.com
The Almost Perfect Cookie
The "Perfect Cookie" from Ruby et Violette isn't exactly modest. But small and chewy, with delicately crisped edges and a bold dose of chocolate, it almost lived up to its name. "This is a totally classic cookie." "I like how the cookie isn't too overwhelmingly sweet. It lets the chocolate shine." "This is a buttery cookie. I like buttery cookies." The complaint? Not enough crisp in the crust to balance out the softness. It was the texture of a Mrs. Fields cookie—even if it tasted 20 times better.
Ruby et Violette: 457 West 50th Street (map), 718-728-6250, rubyetviolette.com
The Huge and Hefty Second Places
There are big cookies, and then there are really, really big cookies. Both Petrossian and Max Brenner had a heft nearing that of a Levain cookie, though neither was quite as raw in the center.
Petrossian had a number of vocal fans—"The crust is amazing, like crunchy butterscotch." "The center is gooey in a good way." "Buttery, chocolatey, memorable." One taster said she'd go out of her way to eat this cookie again.
The main complaints? Too much stuff, and not enough cookie. "No room for the dough to get through." Or, as one taster put it, "Chocolate chip with a side of cookie."
Petrossian Bakery: 182 West 58th Street (map), 212-245-2214, petrossian.com
Okay, we don't love Max Brenner's always-mobbed chocolate palace on Union Square. But, as Ed wrote, "This is one solid chocolate chip cookie." Though far too large to scarf in good conscience, it had basically everything we looked for in a cookie. "Crisp exterior, moist center, perfect balance." "Hint of spice, but not overpowering." "Enough salt! Thank goodness!" But just like Petrossian, while some loved the "cookie stuff action," others found it too overloaded.
Max Brenner: 841 Broadway (map), 212-388-0030, maxbrenner.com
The Absolutely Stunning Upset
A British chain beat out every one of these all-American cookies.
This is the magic of blind taste-tests, right? When we drew up our initial list, a few non-believers didn't even want to include Pret a Manger. But with only one dissenter in a team of ten tasters, this was almost unanimously decreed the best cookie.
"Wow!!" came a shout from the tasters when they got to Cookie #7. "This is perfection in a cookie," one wrote. "Buttery and salty and sweet and crispy and doughy and perfect." "Moist but not wet, with perfect chip distribution." "Distinctive and interesting spice." "A really daring salty-sweet combo." "I think this is the best cookie I've ever eaten."
Pret a Manger: Various locations in New York (map)pret.com/us/
Onto the Next Round
So Pret a Manger (!) and Max Brenner will join Levain, Bouchon, and Yura in our champions round. Who makes the best cookie in the Villages and below? Stay tuned next week for Round Three of the Chocolate Chip Cookie Championships.
Related:
Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship: The Uptown Edition
Introducing the Serious Eats New York Chocolate Chip Cookie Championships
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37 Comments:
I thought Pret a Manger was OK. But holy cow! Petrossian's cookie looks really tempting! Chocolate chip with a side of cookie sounds like my kind of thing. Even though it came in second place with you folks, I'm definitely going to be trying some.
BooRadley at 1:33PM on 11/16/09
I think someone sabotaged City Bakery! My world is crumbling. But I guess it's time for a new champion. Man. A new Pret just opened up next to one of my offices. Wish I hadn't read this.
Allison Hemler at 1:37PM on 11/16/09
Well, I said it (Pret) was surprising--but I had no idea *this* surprising. I will have to personally corraborate this.. (door slams, giddily)..
dbdtron at 1:57PM on 11/16/09
This is dangerous information.
Maggie Hoffman at 2:08PM on 11/16/09
i would like an add a contender: Macchiato's in midtown has the most wonderfully gooey, fresh, moist, warm chocolate chip cookies i've ever had. and if they like you, they'll hand them out gratis when you come in.
nadia2082 at 2:16PM on 11/16/09
I keep trying City Bakery's over and over and there's something not quite right about them. Grainy in a bad way is pretty much what I've been experiencing.
Do Ma Peche's baked to order chocolate chip cookies count on this list?
kathryn at 2:18PM on 11/16/09
@kathryn: Nope, we're sticking to bakeries and other take-out spots for this competition.
Carey Jones at 2:32PM on 11/16/09
Sadly, I have to verify disappointment with City Bakery. Burnt edges and a strangely greasy (and not a good way) feeling made my most recent cookie stop there my last in a long while. The level of chewiness they can reach is still something to admire, but not enough to keep me coming back :[
James Boo at 2:39PM on 11/16/09
Thats me off to Pret on my lunch break tomorrow, I would never think to go there for a cookie lets just hope its the same here in the UK as in NYC
Edwardkimuk at 2:42PM on 11/16/09
I always thought that I was the odd one out because I never got the appeal of City Bakery cookies. Vindication! I think Nana's Treats has the best cookies in the area. NOM.
chubberblub at 2:53PM on 11/16/09
what an upset! i would love to see pret's choc chip cookie sales for today compared to the daily average. how many SE: NY readers returned from lunch today wiping chocolatey crumbs off of their face?
rebeccadiamond at 3:23PM on 11/16/09
this is... I can't... city bakery... best cookies... I need a minute. no one can accuse you guys of playing favorites, that is for sure!
I have to ask: which Pret did you guys go to? Do you think the quality could vary from Pret to Pret? That could be an issue, since there are approximately 2,000 within walking distance of my office.
Ben Fishner at 3:50PM on 11/16/09
...the truth begins to unfold....
Eating The Road at 5:31PM on 11/16/09
I threw away the last cookies I bought at City. They were burned on the edges and completely raw in the center, but the worst part was that they had an "off"taste, as if they'd been baked in an oven along with savory items.
I can't wait to try Pret. I know Claudia Fleming was a consultant there for awhile after Gramercy. Maybe they used her recipe.
Katy at 8:23PM on 11/16/09
I totally agree about the City Bakery cookies. The only one I tried had a horribly rancid taste, & I couldn't finish it. If only they'd bring back their delicious apple miso dessert ...
KateL at 9:02PM on 11/16/09
ditto city bakery.
e. at 9:45PM on 11/16/09
The Roasting plant!!! HELLO!!!!!! Greenwich st at west 10th right next to bone lIck park BBQ.....BEST choc chip inthe city....buttery, slightly chewy and tender...mmmmmm
Stone at 11:37PM on 11/16/09
the first time i got a city bakery chocolate chip cookie, it was so badly burnt i wasn't able to bite into it. when i told them it was inedible, they gave me another (only slightly less burnt) one. maybe it was a really off-day, but i haven't wanted to subject my teeth to that again.
lamenteuse at 11:47PM on 11/16/09
Thanks for trying Times Square Hot Bagels. Totally unfortunate that they were stale. I admit, they tend to be that way when you get them at the store (which is how most people would think to get them). When they're catered, they're moist and chewy.
thesu at 12:54AM on 11/17/09
City Bakery will always own a piece of my heart. But they suffer from major inconsistency.
But Petrossian, there's a whopper that never disappoints.
Sweet Freak at 8:31AM on 11/17/09
whoa this is a total scandal. i will have to try this pret cookie because i really can't believe that it would be particularly great.
johannabanana at 10:05AM on 11/17/09
Stone, this tasting is Midtown down to 14th street, I expect a Downtown installment soon!
Big B at 12:07PM on 11/17/09
SO... against my better judgement...but following your lead.... I went over to Pret today. There must me some location specific magic happening because the cookie I got tasted no better than the toll house cookie rolls you buy at Gristedes and cook at home....right down to the slightly artificial preservative taste.
I'm still waiting for Jacques Torres to show up (Outer Borough I guess) and Le Pain Quotidien.
hightemp at 12:43PM on 11/17/09
@hightemp: Interesting. For the record, ours came from 37th and 7th.
That's part of the reason we wanted a two-round taste test. If a cookie isn't consistent, multiple tastings put them at a disadvantage. The best cookie is not only fantastic on first tasting, but fantastic on a return visit. We'll see how Pret fares in the finals!
Carey Jones at 12:54PM on 11/17/09
Not to be too harsh but I always thought City Bakery Chocolate Chip cookies tasted like stinky feet smell.
bbb at 12:55PM on 11/17/09
wow, lotta CB haters. i'm still a fan, maybe your burnt is my crunchy.
petrossian has a good one too though, i have to agree with that.
foodinmouth at 2:14PM on 11/17/09
Mmmm... just had a Pret Cookie, lush chocolate and slightly soft dough. It is durned good. Just slightly sweet and a crisp "crust."
On to City Bakery!
dbdtron at 2:19PM on 11/17/09
Yeah, you know lately i've been noticing the city bakery cookie going downhill. Along with other things..the food is getting old and tired. I hear this place has dodgy management..As far as i've been able to tell lately, the rumors are proving true..coming to the surface in the form of an overpriced, overhyped, pretentious product. :(
fscfitz at 2:37PM on 11/17/09
I am eating a Pret cookie right now and it is good but needs some more salt. I think the success of this cookie resides on the fact it is in a heated case (though that doesn't explain that it is still good when it cools down after being brought to the SE office). CURSES! What have they done to this cooooooooooookie to make it good. And this thing is 300 calories too. I wish they hadn't told me.
Allison Hemler at 3:16PM on 11/17/09
City Bakery's cookies aren't for the serious cookie lover. They're mealy, the chocolate isn't good, they're burnt and thin, there's really just not much to like about them.
FYI, Pret at Maiden Lane sold out of cookies this afternoon.
wahbjo01 at 4:03PM on 11/17/09
When you get to the downtown edition, the chocolate chip cookies from Jack's Stir Brew coffee are a must-try. I go to the location on Front Street by the Seaport. They are crisp on the edges, have a ton of chocolate, are slightly underbaked to ensure a gooey center, and have a deep, almost, caramel-like, burnt suger / brown butter bass note to them. I keep begging the staff to give me the recipe, but rumor has it that only Jack's aunt knows the recipe. She makes the batter, delivers it to the store, and the staff only bakes off the cookies to keep the recipe secret.
Aiceegray at 5:06PM on 11/17/09
Ditto on Jack's. My daughter used to work there and couldn't get the recipe. Top secret. But I'm sure they have lots of coffee. I think they might actually contain ground coffee beans. Sometimes they're too raw (because the staff bakes them in a toaster oven and lack consistent timing) but they're usually very good. Jacques Torres is still the winner.
Katy at 7:30PM on 11/17/09
Given that half the cookies in NYC seem to be baked below Union Sq, good luck!
I have no idea if it's the BEST, but you have to include Insomnia Cookies.
This bastion of cookies for the NYU crowd (and anyone else in a 3 mile radius), are delectable. And (I think) it's the only purveyor that does nothing BUT cookies. Whenever I brought them into work, it caused a scene like the bridal gown sale at Filene's.
Tom M at 8:34PM on 11/20/09
Your mileage may vary on Pret. I went to the one on 42 and 5th today at 5:00. It was like a dried out biscuit. Very tough and hardly any chocolate. Truthfully, I'd rather eat dough from a tube.
thesu at 9:48PM on 11/24/09
I have to agree on the City Bakery cookie. I tried 7 different ones while I was in NY and this is the only 1 I didn't finish. I didn't even take another bite after the first as the flavor was simply terrible.
FrostyGhost at 2:01PM on 12/11/09
I used to love the City Bakery chocolate chip cookie, but the last couple of times I had it were disappointing. Something seems to have changed.
FoodBoy at 8:59AM on 12/15/09
I love Levain's cookie on the upper west side, though after eating it, I feel like I just ate a pan of lasagna...a really good one, though! I also make special trips often to Petrossian for their cookie. It's chocolatey, sweet, a little salty and gooey and I get very happy when I get get a bite with a pecan! They are often out of them. I think it's my favorite, though I haven't tried these others. I will try the Pret a Manger one from the location you tried. The Max Brenner one looks good, too!
larush62 at 12:31AM on 12/18/09