PrintWeek in Reviews: Best Bites
- In his first review, Sifton gives DBGB two stars, rapturously describing dishes such as the "lamb ribs— sweetly glazed, grassy meat, with a dab of creamy mint-flecked yogurt sauce." [Sifton; NYT]
- Caravaggio has "a dose of extreme pre-bust nostalgia," Platt writes, with "trophy-size veal chops" and a "thick, Madoff-era bistecca." [Platt; NYM]
- A rare thumbs-up for Civetta, based on dishes such as "monkfish polpette, the size of golf balls, sat in a rich tomato sauce atop richer polenta." [Thompson; New Yorker]
- KeBeer Bar and Grill in Brighton Beach has German beer, "a full Uzbek menu," and an "Israeli Yemenite soup, featuring chickpeas, cow feet, and oxtails." [Sietsema; VV]
- Richman doesn't love the new A Voce, with sadly "fragile" flavors, though the "bomboloni were fresh, soft, and yeasty, served with a bitter chocolate sauce." [Richman; GQ]
- At the new Oceana, which "sets its sights on a broader audience," the simpler dishes are the best, such as "a classic silky tomato-enriched soup, poured tableside over a delicate pedestal of plump clams and diced potato, with chopped linguiça sausage." [Cheshes; TONY]
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