PrintThe Sam Sifton Era Begins: He's A Serious Eater, All Right
Sausage dish from DBGB. [Photograph: Robyn Lee]
Sam Sifton's first reviews appeared in the New York Times today, and he shows himself to be a passionate, discerning, and inclusive. Sounds like the definition of a serious eater to me.
His review of DBGB Kitchen and Bar does a great job of placing both the restaurant and its proprietor Daniel Boulud in their proper New York context. Even more importantly, he makes you want to go eat at DBGB.
And his Dining Brief review of Cowgirl Seahorse, Sam shows that he's no food snob, that he understands the role less serious, less ambitious restaurants play in any city's foodscape. As always Sam's writing is graceful, generously spirited, and full of energy. Big fun is in store for us serious eaters, don't you think? Welcome to the fray, Sam.
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3 Comments:
He is way too liberal with his use of parentheses.
armaniboi at 10:51AM on 10/14/09
I loved the Cowgirl Seahorse review. I am so excited to see that his reviews are at once focused on the nuances of the food, but open to the many levels of eating - whether it is for art, comfort, or simple fun.
DomesticMuse at 11:00AM on 10/14/09
I may be too tightbutt here, but it wasn't clear to me that the Cowgirl Seahorse review was about food. It was more like a club guide. Nothing made me want to EAT there, although I could see why someone might want to GO there.
gustoct at 3:29PM on 10/14/09