The Sam Sifton Era Begins: He's A Serious Eater, All Right
Sam Sifton's first reviews appeared in the New York Times today, and he shows himself to be a passionate, discerning, and inclusive. Sounds like the definition of a serious eater to me.
His review of DBGB Kitchen and Bar does a great job of placing both the restaurant and its proprietor Daniel Boulud in their proper New York context. Even more importantly, he makes you want to go eat at DBGB.
And his Dining Brief review of Cowgirl Seahorse, Sam shows that he's no food snob, that he understands the role less serious, less ambitious restaurants play in any city's foodscape. As always Sam's writing is graceful, generously spirited, and full of energy. Big fun is in store for us serious eaters, don't you think? Welcome to the fray, Sam.