The Brunch Dish: House-Cured Gravlax Club at Smorgas Chef

Posted by Nikki Goldstein, October 23, 2009 at 11:00 AM

[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]

It only seems natural that a Scandinavian restaurant would serve fabulous lox at brunch. A good Jew with a hearty appetite for salmon in any shape or form, I looked eagerly to Smorgas Chef to fill my craving. I'd heard good things about their Swedish meatballs, and figured if authenticity was a strength of theirs, I'd be in trustworthy hands. That's why I wasn't surprised to discover a winning dish in the House-Cured Gravlax Club. What was surprising was its sheer size. Not only was it hard to wrap my mouth around, but much of its substance came from a generous portion of that fine cured fish.

For starters, gravlax isn't the most common form of salmon. The Scandinavian preparation dates back to the Middle Ages, but shows up in New York far less often than nova and lox. Unlike the others, which are smoked, gravlax is cured in salt, sugar, and dill which turn into brine as the salmon releases its moisture. Smorgas Chef's version has a sweet note to counter its natural saltiness, and the texture is a little heartier, a little less melt-in-your-mouth than lox. Overall, it's exactly what you're looking for in good gravlax.

The addition of bacon was another bonus. Both it and the gravlax were layered generously, and the combo worked surprisingly well—not overly salty as I'd feared. The addition of avocado and dill-flecked tartar sauce kept it all light and fresh, and though the sandwich looked enormous, I couldn't help but finish every last bite.

Smorgas Chef

283 West 12th Street, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-243-7073
www.smorgaschef.com

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Tags: brunch, gravlax, Manhattan, Smorgas Chef, The Brunch Dish, West Village