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Sugar Rush: Caramel Crunch at Screme

20091019ScremeCaramelGelato.jpg

Competitors needn't worry about Screme, the newest gelateria to open in Manhattan. The staff couldn't be friendlier, offering as many samples as you can handle; I walked in on a busy Saturday afternoon, and no more than five seconds after stepping in, the girl behind the counter had three spoonfuls of pumpkin, pistachio and Snickers in front of me. Flavors are fun and constantly rotating—olive oil and black pepper one day, Mars Bars and Snickers on another.

But in the end, it comes down to taste, and Screme doesn't measure up to L'arte del Gelato, Otto, Grom, or Il Laboratorio del Gelato. The texture is fluffy, rather than silky nor luxurious. And my Crunchy Caramel, pictured above, was light on the caramel and heavier on the sugar. A tasty dessert, but not a contender for New York's best.

Screme Gelato

2030 Broadway, New York NY 10023 (map)
212-362-2111
screme.com

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