Serious Eats: New York

Posted by Carey Jones, October 14, 2009

In his first review, Sifton gives DBGB two stars, rapturously describing dishes such as the "lamb ribs— sweetly glazed, grassy meat, with a dab of creamy mint-flecked yogurt sauce." [Sifton; NYT]
Caravaggio has "a dose of extreme pre-bust nostalgia," Platt writes, with "trophy-size veal chops" and a "thick, Madoff-era bistecca." [Platt; NYM]
A rare thumbs-up for Civetta, based on dishes such as "monkfish polpette, the size of golf balls, sat in a rich tomato sauce atop richer polenta." [Thompson; New Yorker]
KeBeer Bar and Grill in Brighton Beach has German beer, "a full Uzbek menu," and an "Israeli Yemenite soup, featuring chickpeas, cow feet, and oxtails." [Sietsema; VV]
Richman doesn't love the new A Voce, with sadly "fragile" flavors, though the "bomboloni were fresh, soft, and yeasty, served with a bitter chocolate sauce." [Richman; GQ]
At the new Oceana, which "sets its sights on a broader audience," the simpler dishes are the best, such as "a classic silky tomato-enriched soup, poured tableside over a delicate pedestal of plump clams and diced potato, with chopped linguiça sausage." [Cheshes; TONY]

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