Serious Eats: New York

Posted by Robyn Lee, October 7, 2009

Pete Wells gives two stars to Saul, the ten-year-old restaurant that "has neither faded, nor stood still, nor sought a personality transplant." Wells enjoys the crisp pork terrine, "a small grenade of deep-fried deliciousness," squid ink tagliatelle, and pan-roasted veal sweetbreads. [Wells; NYT]
"All the soups I sampled were very good" is about the only good thing Adam Platt has to say about the newly relaunched Aureole. From bar-snacks, to appetizers, to entrees, and desserts, it mostly sounds underwhelming. [Platt; NYM]
"I haven't had such killer bucatini amatriciana since the last time I was in Rome," says Rob Sietsema on Quinto Quatro. He says the pastas are the best things on the menu, but also recommends the melt in your mouth salsiccia vino bianco, "two fennel-laced beauties poached in white wine." [Sietsema; VV]
Jay Cheshes gets great straightforward comfort food at Joseph Leonard. Appetizers include "shrimp that taste just plucked from the sea, tossed with fresh corn and chorizo into a puddle of peppery grits," and for an entrée, a pork shank "that is crisp on the outside, tender and fatty within." [Cheshes; TONY]

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