Serious Eats: New York
Sugar Rush: Gingerbread at Locanda Verde
The girl behind the pasty counter at Locanda Verde was serious when she said to me, "Thank goodness they keep this cake covered—the scent drives me insane." She removed the glass cover, the smell of fresh gingerbread cake wafted over, and I immediately understood what she meant. The dark musky flavors, heavy on the clove, are lightened by a glaze dotted with lemon zest. Don't even get me started on the texture, impossibly light, moist without being wet, the base edges a little crunchy, and not a dry spot to be found.
$4.50 is high for a slice of gingerbread cake, but the prices are justified here, where there's not a single sweet that's less than spectacular. Also spotted at the pastry counter: pumpkin loaf cakes and cinnamon sugar dusted doughnuts.
Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich Street, New York NY 10013 (at North Moore; map)
212-925-3797; locandaverdenyc.com