PrintMidtown Manhattan Gets Another Sichuan: First Look at Lan Sheng
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
Back when I worked in Midtown Manhattan it was a culinary wasteland with just one Sichuan restaurant: the venerable Wu Liang Ye on 46th Street. Today one can choose from three: Wu Liang Ye, the much acclaimed Szechuan Gourmet, and the newly opened Lan Sheng. The last two are on a stretch of 39th Street Zach "Midtown Lunch" Brooks recently praised as one of "the better lunch blocks."
As a self-taught Chinese food expert, it is with genuine embarrassment that I admit I've never been to Szechuan Gourmet. Lan Sheng is another story; it turns out an old college buddy is friends with owner. I was privileged to sample their food at a press dinner last week. A look at what we had, including some items which are being added to the menu, after the jump.
San jiao xia ren, or baby shrimp with three peppers, is a cold appetizer that's not on Lan Sheng's menu just yet. These tiny perfectly cooked shrimp must have sat in the marinade for quite some time because they were crazy good. Pickled green and red chilies along with fresh red chili provide a pleasant amount of heat that contrasts nicely with the cool shrimp.
Chengdu ma la yu ($12 per pound), or Chengdu style spicy yellow croaker, is listed on Lan Sheng's menu, but you have to know where to look. It's the first item in the box of dishes written in Chinese. It warrants three peppers next to the name and is indeed ma la, or "numb hot," thanks to a judicious use of hua jio, or Sichuan peppercorns. (Used in excess the spice creates a sensation that is not unlike licking a 9-volt battery.) The cold fish is crunchy, spicy, sweet, and salty. It's great over rice.
San jiao bian ji, which Lan Sheng's menu lists as stir-fried chicken with spicy capsicum (No. 68, $11.95) also warrants three chili peppers. Coincidentally, the Chinese name means "three pepper chicken." Bony chunks of chicken have been stir fried with Sichuan peppercorns, green peppers, and dried chilies. Like the spicy yellow croaker, it's a Sichuan classic with a goodly amount of heat. Eat enough of it and you'll be mopping the sweat off your brow.
Shui zhu yu, or water boiled fish, is a bubbling cauldron bobbing with chunks of braised fish in an angry red broth containing chili oil, dried peppers, and Sichuan peppercorns. The tender fish is crazy spicy and crazy good. When this dish hits Lan Sheng's new menu I humbly suggest that it gets labeled with four chili peppers. Not that that's a bad thing.
Ma la long xia, or Sichuan style spicy lobster is showered with dried chilies and Sichuan peppercorns.
There's a good reason Lan Sheng's spiciest Sichuan fare is so well-balanced; Chef Zhongqing Wang trained in Chengdu for three years. After that he cooked in China and the States for thirty years. And his number two chef used to work at Wu Liang Ye.
Lan Sheng Szechuan Restaurant
60 West 39th Street (b/n 5th and 6th), New York NY 10018 (map)
212-575-8899
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9 Comments:
wow that cold app of shrimp is something i've never seen before
foodinmouth at 3:38PM on 10/27/09
DiSefano's review suggests, although doesn't come out and say it, that Lan Sheng is a worthy alternative to Wu Liang Ye and Szechuan Gourmet. What's more his pictures certainly whet the appetite. Me? I've eaten at Szechuan Gourmet more than a dozen times and I've eaten at Wu Lian Ye at least twice a month since they first opened and have never been disappointed. As for Lan Sheng, I've eaten there twice and eaten everything Mr. DiSefano mentioned but the San jiao xia ren, or baby shrimp with three peppers. (I will try it on the next occasion.) Which is to say, there will be a next occasion, but here's the disclaimer: I go when Szechuan Gourmet is packed and there's a wait.
The challenge Lan Sheng faces is to be consistently good and on this matter I can't comment since on both occasions I've dined there, there were at most three tables taken. I believe that for Lan Sheng to truly compete with Wu's and SG, they will have to add many new dishes to the familiar Szechuan repertoire, while, at the same time, prepare traditional dishes such as Ma Po Tofu or Tan Tan Mien with the same degree of taste and nuance that distinguish Wu and SG. T
My principle criticism of DiSefano's review is that he fetishizes the "heat." This is unnecessary as it is this quality that brings most people to a Szechuan restaurant in the first place. To mention heat in this context is as unnecessary as remarking that fashion models seldom make for interesting conversationalists. I recommend that DiSefano refrain from phrases such as "crazy good" or, "crazy spicy, and offer a more nuance description of the tastes and sensations different dishes offered.
In closing I'm delighted with Lan Sheng because it I believe it will compel both Wu and SG to fight hard to maintain their customers' loyalties. With dishes such as Chengdu style spicy yellow croaker and their excellent Tan Tan Mien, Lan Sheng has proven itself a real contender. Let's hope they can keep up the quality, once they have to perform to a full house, full of hungry, expectant and discriminating fans of the cuisine.
Robert Sawyer at 11:51PM on 10/27/09
Did you get the title of this post incorrect? Based on their signage, there is no "g" in "Lang"
eatfood at 10:28AM on 10/28/09
Good eye. In neither the signage nor the take-out menu is there the letter "g" in the name. I suspect it is a typo—probably the hurried spelling of a harried editor, as DiStefano uses the correct spelling of the restaurant's name throughout his review.
(I however misspelled DiStefano's name on three occasions, a sloppiness I apologize for, and can only blame on the hour in which I wrote my response.)
Robert Sawyer at 10:40AM on 10/28/09
@eatfood; Yep looks like I spelled the name wrong, thanks for pointing that out
@Robert Sawyer: Who is this Mr. DiSefano whose review you're critiquing? Point taken about the language "crazy good," though." I am looking forward to trying their dan dan mian, and agree that having a new kid on the wok will keep the others on their toes.
Joe DiStefano at 11:44AM on 10/28/09
Joe, I apologize about getting the name wrong. Inexcusable. Saying this, I think your piece will do wonders for Lan Sheng
Robert Sawyer at 1:43PM on 10/28/09
Yes, but do they serve any food with chillies?
morley at 6:47PM on 10/28/09
While we're on the topic of misspellings, it's hua jiao not hua jio.
Joe MacBu at 12:40AM on 10/29/09
Spelling is always suspect, particularly in matters of transliteration. Translations from one language to another is tough enough, but attempts to translate a Chinese character—along with its myriad phonetic implications—to our phonetic alphabet, well, the best is always a good guess, or the version that enjoys sufficient agreement among experts. Nevertheless, thank you for taking the time to make the correction.
Now, saying this the real question is whether your going to visit Lan Sheng and order a portion, or half portion of hua jiao.
Robert Sawyer at 1:20AM on 10/29/09