"It's about forgoing the syrup because the actual dish needs no further complement."

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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Though I'm always a fan of totally original dishes, there's nothing like a classic done perfectly. If it has a little bit of a subtle twist, even better. That's why I go back to Kitchenette time and time again--their pancakes are my favorite in the city, and sometimes no combination of unusual toppings or batter mix-ins is going to top their simplicity.

20090918kitchenette2.jpgBut what about their French toast? It's my favorite brunch dish, so it's about time I tried it.

At Kitchenette, the French toast comes stuffed with an ever-so-thin layer of cherry vanilla filling--though as tasty as that filling is, it's the home-made brioche used for the toast that makes this dish really shine. Kitchenette must be using special water or some kind of magical flour, because each kind of dough they whip up seems to far exceed your already-high expectations. This brioche, in particular, was simultaneously dense and fluffy--the initial crunch of the crust giving way to a melt-in-your-mouth middle, creating a lovely balance of texture. (And that's coming from a girl who always makes her French toast with Challah.)

So how do you know it when you've come across a traditional dish that outdoes all its siblings? I'll give you a hint--it's not all about taste. It's about how often your dining companions offer to trade second and third bites of their dishes for another taste of yours. It's about converting the haters and forgoing the syrup because the actual dish needs no further complement.

Kitchenette

1272 Amsterdam Avenue, New York NY 10027 (map)
212-531-7600
kitchenetterestaurant.com

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