PrintManducatis Rustica in Long Island City Makes Some Serious Calzone
I stopped eating the doughy, half-empty pouches that corner slice shops call calzone years ago. Until tackling this immense one the other day, I’d never eaten a proper Italian style calzone. The brick-oven blistered bad boy is the creation of Massimo Slama, the Trieste-born pizzaiolo at Manducatis Rustica in Long Island City. At $15, it’s not cheap, but is delicious and filling, so much so that I didn’t eat anything else for the rest of the day. “In Europe they’re huge,” Chef Gianna Cerbone told me.
Cerbone’s parents, Vincent and Ida, own the nearby Manducatis, so I guess it’s fair to call Manducatis Rustica a daughter restaurant.
“Calzone is supposed to be like a pizza folded over on itself,” Cerbone pointed out. “The dough and the sauce should be two totally separate entities.” Rustica’s calzone has a pleasantly chewy, slightly burned crust and topped with vibrant tomato sauce and grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Inside, find a mixture of mozzarella and ricotta from Leone Latticini along with Parma Cotto ham, artichoke hearts, Gaeta olives and mushrooms.
A closer look at those savory innards.
And lastly, a parting shot of a calzone upskirt. Molto sexy, no?
Manducatis Rustica
46-31 Vernon Blvd, Queens NY 11101 (map)
718-937-1312
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4 Comments:
Smooth, sublime and existential. This place flows. Slicing open the half moon shaped calzone a broth of heavenly juices flows out. Putting my fork to the creamy mozzarella burrata and more flavor and juices flow out. The pear gelato was the perfect temperature not too cold or too warm, it's subtle powerful flavor flowed flawlessly onto my tongue redefining what a pear should be. The Orange Heavenly Delight Cake would have made Louis the Sun King overflow with pleasure. Every element of the Heavenly Delight Cake perfectly complimented itself, and I don't know how Gianna the chef did it, but the entire wedge of cake literally vanished on my palate. I thought I would feel heavy and grounded after all the food I ate, but I quite literally felt like I could contentedly flow away to the ocean. Thanks Chef Gianna and team for an afternoon that flowed with flavor, harmony and satisfaction. Three Cheers!
scojjtoe at 7:45PM on 09/19/09
I am sold.....
jlewfoodie at 4:35AM on 09/20/09
Joe,
Thanks for this - looks great. Have you tried their other menu items, and, if so, what's good or what looks good? To this point, my favorite calzone in the city has been the deep-fried number at Louie and Ernie's. I've also read some raves about the one served up at Lucali's. Looks like these guys have a real contender here. Looking forward to trying it.
P.
Polecat at 10:03AM on 09/21/09
@polecat: I have had the squid ink pasta which was quite good and also the Rustica Pizza...nice pie a little too much greenery for me though....I haave not had the Louie & Ernie's zone, but spose I will have to...I have also heard good things about Lucali's
Joe DiStefano at 1:07PM on 09/21/09