Week in Reviews: Best Bites
- The many-meat lasagna at Union Square Café "did a deft, unusual seesaw between heartiness and delicacy." [Bruni; NYT]
- At Mimi’s Hummus in Ditmas Park, the title dish is "thick and rich, glossed with oil, scattered with parsley, and served with a basket of hot, puffy pitas." [Raisfeld & Patronite; NYM]
- At DBGB, Boulud’s "first adventure in slumming," the matzo-ball soup is "good enough to put Katz’s Deli on notice." [Byock; New Yorker]
- Fried cucumbers at Brooklyn Star, which Richman hadn't known existed, "turned out to be wonderfully crisp and tart." [Richman; GQ]
- Cuozzo finds that lot still "leaks" at Harbour, where the best dishes are the "miniscule" starters—"best viewed under a microscope." [Cuozzo; NYP]
- "The ’80s are back with a vengeance" at Sho Shaun Hergatt. Though the menu seems dated, there are real strong points: a "silky truffled-celeriac puree flawlessly ices butter-poached halibut." [Cheshes; TONY]
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