Serious Eats: New York
Ramen and Pork Buns from Sui Ren in Williamsburg
Upon a fellow Serious Eater's recommendation, I went to izakaya joint Sui Ren to try their kamo ramen ($12), featuring duck broth, duck breast, soft boiled egg, and pickled bamboo shoot. Although I'm no ramen expert, I'd give it the thumbs up even if it were in a more ramen-rich area than Williamsburg. The noodles were slightly springy and chewy, the broth didn't feel too heavy, the egg had a rich, runny center, and the duck breast was tender—though I wish there had been more than one slice. The portion size was standard for ramen, meaning that it would be stretched out for two meals if you ate judiciously.
I was less enthralled by the steamed pork bun ($4) filled with Berkshire pork loin, shaved scallions, and cilantro. Unfortunately, all pork buns that enter my mouth must answer to Momofuku's pork bun, and they can never be as satisfying. It's not that Sui Ren's pork bun was bad—it just wasn't that memorable, with its not-as-fat-rich pork and lack of crunchy cucumber slices. You'll be full enough on ramen without the buns.
Sui Ren
302 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211 (at Roebling Street; map)
718-218-7878
suirennyc.com