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Sam Sifton as New York Times' New Restaurant Critic; Serious Eaters Should Be Thrilled

20090805-stupid-comp.jpgIt's official. Sam Sifton is the New York Times' new restaurant critic. Serious eaters should be thrilled. Sam is an inspired choice for the job. Before I tell you why I should tell all of you that Sam was the Dining section editor who reached out to me to become a regular contributor to the paper. Though we have not worked together in at least five years, we have stayed in touch and broken bread together on numerous occasions. So I am sure what I am about to write is colored by the great respect, admiration, and warm feelings I have for Sam.

In the end all of that doesn't matter. What does is what Sam is going to bring to the most important and influential restaurant critic job in the world. Allow me to explain, after the jump.

  • First of all, Sam Sifton is brilliant, and that's a word I don't throw around easily. He's smart as a whip, and he has more bandwidth than just about any other human being I know. Sam is endlessly curious and ridiculously well-read.
  • He is also a serious eater par excellence. Sam is as passionate and discerning and inclusive about food as anyone I know. Go back and read any installment of The Cheat in the Times Magazine, and you'll feel his discerning passion in every sentence. When you do that you'll also notice something else: Sam writes like a dream.
  • Sam is not a food snob. Remember, he was the one with whom I developed the long-form format for my round-up stories about hamburgers, hot dogs, and pizza by the slice. Sam encouraged me to go to all five boroughs in my seemingly endless searches for seriously delicious food. He is a man of the people, albeit in part a man of the people who went to Harvard.
  • Sam has strong, well-reasoned opinions about food and defends those opinions as well as anyone. We don't always agree, but I have always respected his point of view and his ability to articulate and back up his arguments.
  • He is a straight shooter, a person of unimpeachable integrity. Chefs and restaurateurs can rest assured that Sam will give them a fair shake, though I am sure that some of them will think otherwise when he writes his first negative review.

So factoring in everything I have just told you about Sam, I think you can see why I think the New York Times got it right. He is the right man for this job, especially at this moment. In a world where everyone has the wherewithal to be a restaurant critic, it's somehow comforting and reassuring that the Times has come up with someone as democratic, discerning, and authoritative as Sam Sifton.

Everyone at Serious Eats would like to welcome Sam Sifton to the fray.

11 Comments:

Oh, he is such a wonderful writer. So, so good. I was getting all weepy this morning because I was going to miss all of Frank Bruni's flourishes and kapows...so this is perfect and wonderful and grand.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I love him too and I think he's the perfect person to fill Frank's shoes EXCEPT. . .is he going to grow out his hair and beard? I'd bet my entire crop of Silver Queen corn that photos of him are on the desks of every maitre' d/host/wait station in every borough of the city.

He's already courting controversy:

As for the second question, the biggest change in restaurant criticism since my days at NYPress is — hands down — the Internet. I don’t know that I trust the opinion of that guy who loved the sandwiches at Xie Xie and wrote about it on his blog, or Yelp, or Eater, or Midtown Lunch. (Why prevaricate? I don’t trust his opinion.) But boy oh boy do I like the photographs he’s posted, the menu he’s scanned, the information he’s provided for all to share. For myself, I look forward to joining that discussion.

Does he know anything about wine? That'd be a nice change (Asimov excepted) from major-city restaurant writing.

A good question. I really don't know. Most of the places we have eaten at together don't really serve wine.

The word "passionate" should be banned.

Beyond his credentials, I find it's an incredibly good sign for food criticism and journalism that the NY times has appointed someone from the Culture desk to do this job.

As someone whose followed this guy's career since his days at NY Press, it seems pretty obvious Sam's a dream choice. Funny, smart, and actually knows what he's talking about. Any bloggers/yelpers/whatever whose egos might have been bruised by that quoted statement need to get over themselves. He's awesome.

i was just reading the same q&a from the nytimes that adam (above) mentioned. my favorite from the bunch:

"Q.I like tacos — bob

A.Dude. Me, too."

ok. no argument that he's a great replacement. But seriously those other three not so little words? I think that stating this makes him the most important IN THE WORLD?!?! is a bit over the top. Is this just because its New York that he's in?

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