In her column "Raising the Bar," author of Bionic Bites Tia Kim will be checking out the grub at a different bar each week.

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Everyone loves breakfast for dinner, and so do I. Specifically, the Bavarian kind of breakfast: Weisswurst with a cool wheat beer to wash it down. Weisswurst is a white unsmoked veal sausage, cooked in hot water or wine, that Bavarians traditionally eat only in the morning, due to the lack of easy refrigeration back in the day. It is said weisswurst should never hear the church bells chime at noon. Fortunately in New York, the shrieking of police sirens are heard more often than the tolling of church bells.

20090820weisswurstsm.jpgFor a proper improper post-noon Bavarian breakfast, I usually head over to Zum Schneider, a small beer garden in Alphabet City with sidewalk seating and mostly ex-pat German waitstaff. Here the Weisswurst ($8) come two to a pot, covered with a plate holding a warm "Brez'n," a soft pretzel with a chewy salt-encrusted exterior, and a side of sweet mustard.

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The sausage, once removed from the rubbery pork casing (which isn't eaten), is silky and smooth with a soft, gentle flavor, unlike the more aggressive bratwurst. The mustard isn't overly strong, either, simply adding a bit of sweet zing to each bite.

20090820weissbeer.jpgTo drink, my wheat beer-of-choice is a tall glass of Schneider Weisse ($7, .5L), a fruity amber-colored beer with a thick frothy head. Give me an ice cold Schneider Weisse over a milkshake any hot summer night. It's rich, but light enough to pair well with the weisswurst.

Zum Schneider opens at 5pm Monday through Thursday, and at 4pm on Friday. Even more reason not to worry about church bells—the weisswurst at Zum Schneider sleep-in well past noon.

Zum Schneider

107 Avenue C (at 7th St), New York NY 10009 (map)
212-598-1098
zumschneider.com

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