If there is a lost art in diner cookery, it is surely that of homemade corned beef hash. Even some of the best diners, those that make much of their menu from scratch, have a tendency to "phone it in" and simply pop open a can of Broadcast hash (or whatever brand their local supplier carries).
Not so at the Stage Restaurant, where the corned beef hash is made right in the kitchen. Unlike the generic, bland flavor of the canned variety, the one here is peppery with a distinctive beefy taste. It is far less greasy than others, but the meat itself is moist and tender. So are the potatoes, which look and taste far more natural than the perfect cubes of hash from the can. The griddle puts a nice sear on the outside, turning the pale pink hash in to a golden brown and forming a crunchy crust.
A generous portion comes served with two eggs, toast, and either grits or home fries for only $5—making it one of the best breakfast bargains out there.
The Stage Restaurant
128 Second Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map)