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I've said it before and I'll say it again: New York barbecue joints all seem to have one meat that they nail, one dish that is clearly superior to every other meat they cook low and slow. At RUB BBQ that one dish is the burnt ends, or the crazy smoky burnt ends of the fatty half of the brisket. RUB's burnt ends are alternately meaty and fatty, so if you're fat-phobic you should order something else.

Of course if you're fat-phobic you probably wouldn't have walked into RUB or any other barbecue joint in the first place. Don't worry, though. There's plenty of meat, both crusty exterior pieces and tender interior ones, on these burnt ends, and they give you so much Adam and I happily split the burnt ends dinner. If you eat them that way, they are even a bargain.

The burnt ends dinner comes with a choice of two sides and a slice of thick white bread. I like the vinegar cole slaw and the baked beans with mine, but that's just one man's preference.

For dessert, have the bacon chocolate-chip cookie. It's not the greatest chocolate chip cookie you've ever had (far from it, actually), but it is studded with bacon bits smoked and cured in house.

RUB BBQ

208 W 23rd Street, New York NY 10011 (map); 212-524-4300‎; rubbbq.net

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