Serious Eats: New York
Breakfast of Champions: The Croaker at The Smith
I may not be down with The Smith's hamburger but I can recommend the East Village restaurant for breakfast, especially if you go during the week when $8 gets you The Croaker.
What is The Croaker, you ask? From bottom to top, start with a layer of wonderfully crispy home fries, top that with a hefty slice of sourdough rye which has been toasted (or perhaps more likely griddle-fried), pile on a fist-sized serving of smoked ham and finally melt Gruyere cheese on top. But in the words of the late, great Billy Mays "Wait! there's more!" Crown the whole thing with two fried eggs.
I recommend you get the eggs extra runny and let the yolks ooze over the mighty stack. Then dig in. The ham may not be the priciest imported variety and the cheese rather innocuous in its tang but the synthesis of the components produces a most satisfying experience.
Texturally, it is pleasingly varied: crunch from the bread, a velvety richness from the yolk and cheese, a slight bite from the ham. The flavors hit familiar notes: saltiness from the ham, creaminess from the egg and a savory heartiness from the potatoes. The dish might be the perfect hangover breakfast although you might want to reserve it for weekdays (the best nights to drink anyway), if you get it on the weekends you will pay the price in more ways than one—$14 instead of $8
The Smith
55 Third Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map)
212-420-9800
Previously: Another Burger Ruined by Brioche from The Smith [AHT]