PrintZuZu Ramen in Park Slope, a Nice Addition to the Neighborhood
Zuzu Ramen, which opened in Park Slope in May, has been commonly referred to as "the ramen shop from the Sheep Station people" by neighbors. That'd be the popular Aussie-themed gastropub around the corner. The owners have a tight local following, and are definitely doing their part to add life to an otherwise lifeless strip of gas stations and auto repair shops on 4th Avenue.
The name comes from the sound of slurping ramen. Zu-zuuuu. Executive chef Akihiro Moroto has worked in kitchens like Lespinasse, L’Atelier, and Jean Georges, where slurping is probably less acceptable. The menu consists of four kinds of ramen, two noodle dishes, two rice dishes, and five "morsels," or snacky things.
"ZuZu Ramen," the namesake ramen on the menu
It's hard not to compare ZuZu with the East Village ramen shop gang—Ippudo, Setagaya, Minca, and Noodle Bar—and in terms of price point, they're definitely in the same boat. You can easily leave there dropping $60 for two (after two ramens, a couple morsels, and Sapporos).
The best of the ramens (and also the priciest at $14) is the namesake, ZuZu ramen. Two long strips (so long they're a little unwieldy to eat politely) of charshu, or roast pork, bathe in a smokey broth along with an oozy soft-boiled egg and heaping pile al dente noodles. Definitely splurge for it over the Hot and Sour with Shrimp ($11), which is going for a Tom Yum soup effect, but the slimy tomato sauce makes it something of an Asian ragu.
Pork buns
Under the "Morsels" category, the pork buns ($8 for two) definitely seem to be a nod at David Chang, who put almost-$10 pork buns on the map. There's enough braised pork shoulder here to fill twice as many steamed buns, and enough sauce to moisturize a small child (plus it came with an extra little tub for dipping!). Though nicely flavored, it's a sloppy goopfest, and could use some more crunch from the waifish cucumber slices. Chang's have a better meat-to-bun proportion, and won't give you the same sauce 'stache after.
Veggie dumplings
The veggie dumplings ($6, also available in pork) have a crisp green skin and are tasty, but in the way that dumplings that don't suck are. They come with a nice shiso seed dipping sauce for dunking.
I don't spend big bucks on ramen that often, but the food here is pretty tasty. Plus it has a nice low-key vibe that's less definitely frenetic than the East Village spots. The wooden tall stools (most tables are set for two) are fun, especially when you can watch Moroto in the glassed-in kitchen blowtorching pork.
Zuzu Ramen
173 Fourth Avenue, Park Slope Brooklyn 11217 (at DeGraw Street; map)
718-398-9898
Closed Mondays, Open Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sun 5 to 11 p.m. and Fri, Sat 5 p.m. to midnight
zuzuramen.com
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3 Comments:
We ate there a couple of weeks ago, and while I was sooo hopeful to have this spot nearby I really thought it was very so so. The pork buns especially just were not good. As described above, the proportions are completely off and I also just didn't like the taste of either the sauce or the meat, and it was hard to find those cucumbers. We tried two of the ramens. They were ok, and in a pinch and if I were desperate I would go there for some noodles as the broth was pretty tasty. I thought that they skimped on the veggies and I also didn't like the meat. Oh well. Maybe they'll figure out how to improve things.
cherrypatter at 1:34PM on 05/13/09
Went there a few weeks ago when I had a terrific headcold. Since my sense of taste was seriously impaired, I rely on my boyfriend's descriptions: Zuzu Ramen was pretty good, nice noodle texture; the green curry ramen was insanely peppery (like white pepper, overwhelming) and disappointing; the buns were indeed a gloppy, unsatisfying mess. The stools are a bit too high for the tables, though, so you have to hunch over your bowl to avoid dripping all over yourself. Overall, though, I'm glad to have Zuzu in the neighborhood.
salty_sticky at 5:06PM on 05/13/09
I'm one of the few that outright likes this place. Maybe the curry miso ramen is not a very traditional ramen, but I love the intensity of flavor. The pork buns I agree could be a improved upon. They actually look different than when I went there earlier... he seems to pile on the meat now. Also not to be overlooked is the fact that their noodles are really toothsome and delicious. Maybe it's different strokes for different folks, but I love this place and love that the best thing on the menu is a full meal at $10.
foodinmouth at 8:36PM on 05/13/09