Week in Reviews: Best Bites
- The "vaguely and not-so-vaguely cloudy broths of the shiromaru ramen" at Ippudo—"with its slices of fat-stippled Berkshire pork and its hints of mushroom and its nutty whispers of sesame" [Bruni; NYT]
- Terrifically crisp fries with a smoky bacon dipping sauce from Box Frites at Citi Field [Bruni; NYT]
- Fried calamari at El Almacén "is more elegant than most, with the skinny, tender rings dusted in a featherlight cornmeal batter and garnished with radish, pickled red onion, and a zingy citrus vinaigrette" [Raisfeld/Patronite; NYM]
- The hotter plates at Socarrat are the better ones, like the sizzling gambas al ajillo, canelones blistered with little bubbles of char [Collins; New Yorker]
- At Gazala Place, "the freaky-sounding frekasai, an entrée based on green wheat grains (usually transliterated phreak), which are smoked before being boiled...surrounded by tomato slices like an edible picket fence, accompanied by a bowl of cold and garlicky cucumber soup" [Sietsema; VV]
- Pizza topped with rich, fatty, juicy guanciale (pork cheek) and spicy sopressata at Emporio [Richman; GQ]
- Blueberry sour cream pancakes from Bubby's [Restaurant Girl; NYDN]
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