PrintA Beginner's Guide to Soft Shell Crabs
Photograph from huggingthecoast.com food blog on Flickr
It may seem a little early for soft shell crabs, an iconic summer food right up there with snow cones and grilled tube meats, but the first 2009 batch has already arrived at Grand Central Oyster Bar and a few other spots in Manhattan.
Our soft shell crab guru is Jim Gossen, president of the seafood sourcing company Louisiana Foods, who came highly recommended by crustacean expert and Houston Press food writer Robb Walsh. Gossen was in Atchafalaya Basin with some crawfishermen when we chatted (always a good sign).
When is soft shell crab season? We are in soft shell crab season along the Gulf Coast of Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida. It usually starts in early April and runs through October or early November. The season runs longer than the Chesapeake or East Coast. We see very few crabs after the water temperature drops below 50°F.
What should we look out for when buying them at a fish market? Make sure they are not wrapped in cellophane, they probably were previously frozen. They should not be cleaned—you should clean them right before cooking. Today with health regulations, it is hard to keep soft shell crabs alive because the health department requires us to keep our coolers at 40°F or below and soft shell crabs will die at those temperatures. They are still good for a few days in the cooler though.
And at a restaurant? Try to order soft shell crabs during the months they are harvested. A good indicator for a restaurant is if they are running them off the menu or as a special, you can figure they are fresh. Properly frozen crabs are not bad, but none are better than fresh.
Are there any red flags that say, do NOT buy me? Yes, as I said before they should not be wrapped in cellophane. Their shells should be very soft—don't buy paper shells, which are crabs that have been left in the water too long after the molted. Also they should have all of their legs and claws.
How much should they cost? Jumbo and Whalers should run from $48 to $75 a dozen depending on size and where you are buying them.
What exactly are soft shell crabs, relative to "normal" (hard shell?) crabs? Soft shell crabs are crabs that are molting, which is when the hard shell of the crab grows about 30 percent. They have to shed their old shell and when they exit that shell, they are soft for about 2 to 3 hours. Then their shell starts to turn hard again.
Jim shows us his ideal soft shell sandwich: on white bread with tomatoes.
Where restaurants are doing the best soft shell crabs? I think that Sandy has great ones at Grand Central Oyster Bar. Any restaurant serving them fresh, never frozen, will be good. I love to eat them at Galatoire's in New Orleans. Their sautéed soft shell Crabs Meuniere are some of my favorites.
At home, how do you like yours? I haven't found a better way to cook a soft shell crab than by frying it. I have tried many ways but they just taste the best fried. Every year when we get our first deliveries of soft shells, I make a fried soft shell sandwich on white bread with over-ripe tomatoes. I pick a great big crab out for this first crab sandwich of the season.
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22 Comments:
I tried and tried and tried to like soft shell crabs...
...I....can't.......do....it *ugh*
hungrychristel at 2:36PM on 04/08/09
My mouth is filling with water while reading this. I might walk over to GC oyster bar today.
kiteless at 3:20PM on 04/08/09
Nothing says summer to me quite like a soft shell crab sandwich on toasted white bread with mayo lettuce and tomato.
BurgsAndBeers at 3:29PM on 04/08/09
That sandwich looks fantastic..yummmm
Cupcake819 at 3:40PM on 04/08/09
if this is a beginner's guide, it's missing the most important piece of information- how much of the crab do you eat? all of it? do you just chow right down on the thing until it's gone? is there any special technique one should employ?
I have had them once, and even though i love just about every type of food out there (and make an effort to like the few things i'm on the fence about), i had trouble wrapping my head around the idea of eating shell, even if it is "soft".
mr guy at 4:15PM on 04/08/09
There's plenty available here on Marco Island, and are they ever tasty!!!
1stmakearoux at 4:15PM on 04/08/09
@ mr guy. You eat the entire soft shell crab. Every delicious piece of shell, legs and claws.
BurgsAndBeers at 4:28PM on 04/08/09
yea, i had one once and was not a fan. i would definitely be willing to try one again though as it was a while ago and i have no idea about the quality...
hookrilla at 4:33PM on 04/08/09
I simply adore soft shell crab. Tis the season!!
izatryt at 4:41PM on 04/08/09
@ mr guy: According to Jim, "the lungs under the top part of each side of the shell and the eyes should be removed before cooking. Cut the eyes off with scissors." Otherwise, go to town.
Erin Zimmer at 4:51PM on 04/08/09
I used to think, as David Letterman once commented, that soft shell crabs = Chiclets. But then I finally had some good ones. hungrychristel, you might want to give them a second chance if the shell is what's bothering you.
I had some good ones last year at Little Owl and Pearl's Oyster Bar. I don't get the hype about NY Noodletown. They were big but the shells were really hard.
bluebird at 5:22PM on 04/08/09
We had some down in Florida recently, they were really good and nothing surprised me more when my two-year-old daughter couldn't stop sneaking "legs" out of her father's sandwich. We didn't tell her what she was eating, but she loved it anyway.
Peony at 8:58PM on 04/08/09
Here in Jersey we usually find them prepared in either of two methods: 1) deep fried or 2) sauteed. The deep fried are mostly used on a a sandwich with tarter sauce the usual condiment (or a remolade). Sauteed, the norm is with butter, garlic, white wine and herbs. But there is always lots of latitude with ingredients in the saute pan.
thegoch at 10:27PM on 04/08/09
@bluebird and mr guy -
Yeah I'm the ultimate crab MEAT fan, but I still can't bring myself to enjoy the texture and look of a soft-shell....
...hopefully someday
hungrychristel at 9:22AM on 04/09/09
i am going to call tony mandola's (here in houston) and see if they have them on the menu today, because after reading this, i have to have one. i am going to new orleans next weekend and am definitely going to stop by galatoire's for some, but can't wait that long.
carriebwc at 9:43AM on 04/09/09
Best soft shell crab is at Elias right across from the Bohemian Beer Garden in Astoria. Simple and 100% delicious!
StarvingArtist at 11:01AM on 04/09/09
thanks for the tips, all. I'll have to give these beauties another try the next time i see them on the menu.
mr guy at 11:18AM on 04/09/09
Just had the soft shell crab from NY Noodletown at 3am this past weekend...helllooooo spring!!
Jenn Sit at 11:36AM on 04/09/09
Got my first one of the season this past weekend, on special at a Whole Foods in Atlanta. I took an Asian route, dredging the crab in cornstarch and pan-frying it before shellacking it with a soy-ginger-garlic sauce. It was delicious, but now I wish I hadn't bought a crab wrapped in cellophane. Thanks for the tip, now I know for next time.
unpocojmoney at 12:53PM on 04/09/09
I have to take back what I said about NY Noodletown's soft-shells. Long ago, I muct have had them too late in the season. Tried them again last night, and they were amazing.
bluebird at 10:30AM on 04/10/09
I thought soft shell crabs were a "Spring" dish more so than a summer dish. No mention that they are typically of the blue claw variety...
dkstar1 at 5:17PM on 04/22/09
The best softshell crabs in NY can be had at the Bridge Cafe 279 Water Street. Mayor Koch eats them all the time. His favorite for over a decade. Available as an appetizer or entree. Funny thing is if you order the appetizer you end up ordering the entree because they are just that damn good. The soft shell B.L.T. is like nothing you've ever experienced. A succulent jumbo soft shell crab, a sweet- peppered bacon, sun dried tomato pesto aioli, organic greens, sliced tomatoes on a grilled ciabatta pocket. The B.L.T is only on the lunch menu.
Chef Joe at 12:42AM on 07/17/09