20090317-dirtcandy.jpgLast week, Oliver Schwaner-Albright reviewed the new vegetarian joint Dirt Candy in the New York Times, and now, the restaurant is responding.

Some favorite passages from their brassy blog response:

Last week when I found out the Times was going to run a Dining Brief on Dirt Candy I knew in an instant what the review would say: they’d slag on the name, hate the pappardelle and love the portobello mousse. I’m not psychic, but I’m also not stupid and it’s pretty easy to pick up on a theme.

One thing that did surprise me, however, is the fact that the Times seems to think it’s competing with the internet and that it needs to review places before they’re ready for the full weight of The Gray Lady to descend upon them. Blogs and food websites have sped up the review process, pressuring big, established players like the Times into jumping the gun with some reviews for fear, I guess, of getting scooped.

Then the Times went into a tailspin because our pastry chef, Debbie Lee, had left sometime between the last time Schwaner-Albright was here and now. We’re still executing her desserts, but they seemed to think it was a matter of national security. When did she leave? In mid-February but we’re still executing her desserts, I told them. What day did she leave?...I’m surprised they didn’t send someone to audit our time sheets.

Maybe it’s the short length of the piece, but it didn’t develop or present its ideas in a way I found personally useful. For example, he thinks that using microgreens is “fussy.” I use them for a couple of reasons but, more importantly, I don’t understand his yardstick for “fussy.” If he thinks microgreens are fussy then he should check out a place uptown called Per Se. That’ll drive him bananas.

They even included an icon of "Mr. Fussy" in honor of the last passage.

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