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This Week in the 'New York Times' Dining Section

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Anxious Restaurants: There's a different vibe from restaurants these days: "extreme solicitousness tinged with outright desperation."

Sticking with Peanut Butter: A contamination scare could not have touched a more iconic American flavor. Its popularity may help its reputation survive intact.

"Biggest Losers" Learn to Cook: One of the hardest things contestants on the weight loss reality show do is to learn to feed themselves.

Drink Barolo Now: The 2004 vintage is approachable and superb right now.

Homemade Crackers: Crackers are super easy to make. And the ones you will whip up will taste so much better than what you buy in a box.

One Star: That's what Frank Bruni grants the Oak Room at the Plaza. The scene is glamorous; the meal, unremarkable.

Lively Indian: Dhaba boasts a menu with more than 125 items. And the kadai goat is sumptuous.

Another Try at the Greenwich Hotel: Andrew Carmellini will take over the kitchen of what is now Ago. “I want to have a good time,” he says.

Pretty Package of Cheese: A goat-milk robiola made by La Casera is wrapped in savoy cabbage leaves and tied with strands of straw.

A New Place for Pastry and Bread: Monica Von Thun Calderón, the owner of Grandaisy Bakery, opened another spot in TriBeCa.

Chocolate Sauce: Bennett Lane Winery in Calistoga, Calif., makes theirs with Maximus, a cabernet sauvignon-merlot-syrah blend. Perfect for Valentine's Day.

4 Comments:

Homemade crackers must be the "in" thing. Bittman's recipe looks great and very simple, and Alton Brown did crackers recently on a "Good Eats" segment.

Regarding the Anxious Restaurant comment: Did you guys see on Tasting Table today how Le Bernadin is making a play on black truffles? Ripert was commenting about how restaurants may start making it the new "it" thing because of the savings vs. white truffles.

I always find it interesting how a good chef has to really be a good business manager with a great sense for flavor.

I read the comments in the NYT today in response to the Anxious Restaurants story. Not a lot of warm and fuzzies there. The sentiment was pretty much along the lines of "ha ha! eat it!".

When I read the Bruni piece, all I could think was: where are my hugs?? I eat out 4-5 nights a week and haven't noticed a lot of fawning, or even increased friendliness. Maybe I should try Chanterelle?

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