Sugar Rush: Pineapple Bun from Wong Wah in Chinatown
There is no pineapple in a pineapple bun ("bolo bao" in Chinese); the name comes from the similarity of the bun's crackly top to the pattern on the outside of a pineapple's rind. (Depending on how the bun is topped, the resemblance can be a bit of a stretch, but it's no worse than comparing meatballs to a lion's head.) The bun is a soft, sweet, mildly chewy roll topped with a crispy, light topping mostly make of sugar, fat (butter, lard, shortening—take your pick), and flour. Beware if you're looking for a no-mess snack; the topping will flake off and coat you in yellow, powdery flecks. But your reward will be a belly of wheaty goodness. Pineapple buns are available in most Chinese bakeries.
Wong Wah
83 Canal Street, New York NY 10002 (at Eldridge Street; map)
212-343-8077
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