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'New York Times' Dining Roundup

Posted by Erin Zimmer, January 14, 2009 at 12:30 PM

The Nation's Capital for Food, Too: Enter the revolution of the D.C. culinary scene, traced back to urban renewal projects and commercial development in crime-ridden neighborhoods, which has local chef Gillian Clark feeling like "the sun is shining on us, finally.”

Parisian Critic, Criticized: As food critic for Le Figaro newspaper for more than two decades, François Simon has sliced and diced his restaurant subjects, but becomes the vulnerable one, now with a kitchen stint himself.

Wine Science: Harold McGee plays with gizmos that can rid wine of dank aromas. "Wine is like a baby...a lot hardier than people give it credit for.”

Obama's Restaurant Agenda? The last few years have been weak for presidential dining, but restaurateurs join the list of people who see rays of hope emanating from the president-elect. If he shows up to eat there, the restaurant is golden.

Leftovers Cross-Dress as Dessert: Leftover pasta, rice, and bread all have afterlife potential in the pudding and custard genre.

Wine Auctions: In a tanked economy, auctions and private cellars selling older vintages become a serious wine buyer's dream. Cheapness, of course, is still relative.

Upper West Side, Culinarily Baptized: Bruni double-times his review this week, with critiques of both West Branch and Bar Bao on the Upper West Side. Based on the consistent crowds at West Branch, the cruel economy is being pretty kind to the Mediterranean brasserie. More so than the Vietnamese Bar Bao.

Recession-Friendly Yakitori Lounge: Lollipoplike chicken wings are a comfort-food balm at Mr. Jones in the East Village.

Tandoori Tough as Clint Eastwood: At Vermilion, the Indian-Latin American fusion restaurant coming to the Grand Central-area by way of Chicago, is mystifying—in a bad way.

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