PrintGreat Sandwiches and More at Murray's Cheese Shop
Murray's Cheese Shop
254 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 (b/n 6th & 7th Ave; map); 212-243-3289
Service: Efficient, friendly, occasionally chaotic
Setting: Storefront with an incredible array of cheeses, meats, and chocolate
Must-Haves: Ham and cheese sandwich, portobello mushroom sandwich, cream cheese brownie, s'mores
Cost: $10 for a sandwich, soda, and dessert.
Grade: B
In theory, Murray's Cheese Shop should be seriously delicious sandwich central. Think about it: Great sandwiches depend on great ingredients assembled in balanced fashion, and nobody has a better selection of cheese and fresh, cured, and smoked meat than Murray's. Owner Rob Kaufelt has been traveling the world in search of the best cheeses and meats for more than 20 years.
Every time I walk past the window of Murray's flagship shop on Bleecker Street, I notice both the sandwiches neatly stacked up (unfortunately premade) and the other scrumptious-looking array of prepared foods that invariably involve those same cheeses and meats.
Further, serious investigation was needed.
On any given day, Murray's has seven sandwiches on hand. All benefit and are, in fact, designed to to go into the sandwich press. They are all made on high-quality rolls from either Amy's Bread or Tom Cat, and good bread is indeed the foundation of a seriously delicious sandwich.
The Bleecker Street Classic is made with creamy enough Leoni mozzarella from Brooklyn and really good Genoa salami made by Columbus in San Francisco.
A grilled, meaty-tasting portobello sandwich had fine Leoni mozzarella, unripe winter tomato, fresh basil, and a fine balsamic vinaigrette.
The Otto (named after the neighborhood butcher Ottomanelli's) is a fine turkey sandwich enlivened by Emmenthaler cheese and watercress.
The PMT, or prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomato, is quite tasty but I wish it wasn't made with domestic prosciutto that can't hold a pig's leg to prosciutto de Parma.
A killer ham and cheese sandwich represents Murray's sandwiches at their best. It's made with Niman Jambon Royale, brie, Dijon mustard, and cornichon. I would like to start a "pickle in every sandwich" movement in this country. Who's with me?
Murray's BLT benefits from the addition of a slice of milky, creamy burrata, and the Ottomanelli's slab bacon and burrata is a felicitous combination.
Other comfort food items on the Murray's menu were less consistent.
Roasted Brussels sprouts were in desperate need of salt. In fact, after tasting a half dozen non-sandwich dishes I felt that the kitchen was under orders not to use any salt, curious for a shop that specializes in cured meats and cheeses.
A tangy onion, potato, and cheese tart had a reasonably flaky crust and tender potato slices.
If you run a great cheese shop you are obliged to make a killer macaroni and cheese. Murray's is very good, thanks to the tangy nuttiness supplied by Grafton Village Reserve cheddar, Grana Padano, and Gormino Gruyere, but with very little crunch, I'm afraid it falls short of mac and cheese greatness.The mac and cheese should have been great but isn't.
Sweets are also a mixed bag. A chocolate chip cookie is in the middle of the New York chocolate chip cookie pack. A piece of coffee cake was sodden and lifeless. A blondie, made with dates and fancy pants sugar, is unremarkable. A cream cheese brownie is a far better, tastier alternative. It's blessedly unsweet and intensely chocolaty, thanks to the dark chocolate.
The best desserts are Murray's Munchies, the comfort food sweets from Tumbador Chocolates, made in Sunset Park by former Daniel pastry chef Jean-Francois Bonnet. His s'mores, made with a layer of dulce de leche are wickedly delicious, as are his homemade cream-stuffed devil's food cake known as either ring dings or ding dongs.
Choose your sandwich wisely at Murray's and you will end up with a fine lunch. Do indulge yourself with a Murray's Munchie. The only problem with a Murray's lunch is there's no place to eat it, especially in winter, when it's not all that pleasant to wander around the neighborhood. If enough serious eaters beseech Rob Kaufelt and company with requests to utilize the all-too-visible Murray's conference room and classroom, maybe we can solve this problem.
Read more of Ed's reviews.
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11 Comments:
I had no idea Murray's carries Tumbador chocolates, thanks for the tip! I've been going out to Park Slope's Bierkraft all this time to get my fix. Those s'mores are crazy insane! ^_^
Kathy YL Chan at 12:15AM on 01/14/09
I'm all for pickles in sandwiches--cold or hot they add a great salty crunch that just perks up anything.
dhorst at 5:30AM on 01/14/09
Thanks for the pics, Ed. I'm drooling all over my keyboard. I think I'll go here tonight for dinner. Its between this or Porchetta. Though I'm pretty sure Porchetta is open only during lunch. I'll have to confirm.
Juman23 at 10:20AM on 01/14/09
I completely agree about the Brussels sprouts. They were reasonably well roasted but the lack of salt rendered them bland.
ECA at 10:30AM on 01/14/09
Listen up biters go please stop
While I'm politicin' at Murray's Cheese Shop
Believe what you heard when you talk
My name is Adrock made in New York
oh word?
franklindelanobluth at 1:51PM on 01/14/09
murray's sandwiches aren't all that which always surprises me. while i agree with ed that walking down bleecker st, one can't help but notice them through the window. they're just not that memorable. after eating a few, you'd expect more from a place like murray's.
go to faicco's a few doors down and get an italian special for ten bucks. you can eat half of it for lunch and the other half for dinner. it's insanely large. now that is a serious sandwich....artisanal my arse. we're going old school.
gsd96rk1 at 12:35AM on 01/15/09
@gsd96rk1
Great tip on Faicco's -- thanks. I've been really curious about their sandwiches but haven't braved the weekend lines yet.
FlynnNYC at 9:30AM on 01/16/09
Blind Tiger Ale House right across the street also has really good sandwiches. And cask ale.
DanielJ at 11:39AM on 01/16/09
I'm glad for this review, since the sarnies in there have always piqued my interest, though they never looked inviting enough to try. I think I'll stick with being a groupie around the cheese counter, for the Soumatrain, and their antipasti (marinated anchovies, and balsamic onions particularly yummy).
Pintchow at 1:29PM on 01/16/09
I am certainly on board with the idea of a pickle in every sandwich. This holds true if the sandwich contains cheese or cured meats...you need the vinegary component to cut through the fatty richness of the cheese and meat.
Domestic prosciutto on the whole is an absolute trainwreck....UNLESS it comes from Herb Eckhouse at La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. I would happily welcome any of his cured pork products on any sandwich.
And people, people, people...use the salt! Please, please, please....food fear and salt fear in particular is for the "dead at 30 and buried at 70 crowd". Give me my Maldon or hold the brussels sprouts!
kevinpen at 12:24AM on 01/18/09
I work in the neighborhood and eat those sandwiches all the time. They're filling and delicious. That springy melted mozz-I always ask for my sandwich extra toasty so the cheese oozes and manages to slap my chin.
Love it!
Nobody mentioned the fantastic drinks. How about a local apple cider or thick Ronnybrook chocolate milk to wash it all down.
The lush life.
pfleug at 5:16PM on 01/20/09