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Baoguette: Great Vietnamese Sandwiches in Murray Hill, Possibly the Best Banh Mi in NYC

Baoguette may just be the start of another trend—the chef-driven banh mi shop.

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Photographs by Robyn Lee

Baoguette

31 Lexington Avenue, New York NY 10010 (b/n 26th and 25th; map); 212-518-4089
Service: Friendly and a little slow when it's really busy
Setting: Simple storefront with a ten-stool counter
Compare It To: Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches
Must-Haves: Classic banh mi, spicy catfish, and bun bo Hue soup
Cost: $10 to $12 for a sandwich, soft drink, and iced coffee for dessert
Grade: A-

If I were running for office in this town, my slogan would not be "a chicken in every pot" (though that's a laudable goal). Nope, my slogan would be "a banh mi shop on every corner." Think about it. If every substandard sub shop were replaced by a banh mi shop in New York, Gotham would certainly be filled with a lot more serious deliciousness.

First of all, let's define our terms. A banh mi (the word itself means baguette in Vietnamese) is essentially an Asian hero sandwich. The classic is filled with pâté, slices of what can only be described as pork loaf, pickled vegetables, fresh coriander, jalapeño slices. It's dressed with fish sauce, mayo, and hot sauce (usually Sriracha) and served on a warmed baguette.

In New York City, banh mi shops started cropping up in Asian neighborhoods in Brooklyn, Queens, and Manhattan, often sharing space with jewelry shops and stores selling Asian groceries, phone cards, and videos. Then the folks from Nicky's opened an outpost in the East Village, and hipster banh mi joints like Hanco's in Boerum Hill and a new Nicky's in Cobble Hill started coming to a gentrified neighborhood near you.

Now comes Michael "Bao" Hyunh, itinerant Vietnamese chef-restaurateur with a compulsive entrepreneurial streak, who has opened and closed a series of mostly very good Vietnamese eateries. Last year Hyunh opened and left the Tribeca Vietnamese restaurant Mai House (where he was partners with Drew Nieporent) and opened and left Bun in Soho. Now he has recently opened Bar Bao on the Upper West Side, a terrific contemporary restaurant the Upper West Side has been waiting for forever. A month ago he opened Baoguette with his wife, fellow chef and managing partner, Loan Nguyen.

Hyunh must have been a juggler in a former life because he seems compelled to have at least two balls (or should I say baos) in the air at any given time. Baoguette may just be the start of another trend: the chef-driven banh mi shop.

Baoguette is a low-overhead, two- or three-person operation. How low? It's basically a banh mi take-out shop with ten stools. Michael, ever the multitasker, helps out Nguyen most mornings (Bar Bao is only open for dinner). He has been there every time but once when I have stopped by in search of a perfect banh mi.

The menu at Baoguette features four banh mi varieties, all served on properly warmed and crisped Tom Cat Bakery baguettes.

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Classic banh mi from Nicky's.

The classic ($5) is elevated by a house-made pork pate, house-made terrine, and thin slices of house-roasted pork belly. Hyunh's house-made pork products beat the hell out of the usual canned and purchased stuff used by just about every other banh mi place I know in New York. The sandwich is filled (but not overfilled) out by pickled daikon, cilantro, and jalapeño, and then dabbed with house-made mayo, meat pan drippings, fish sauce, and optional hot sauce (Sriracha). Thanks to all the house-made meats and condiments, and the Tom Cat baguette, the classic banh mi here sets the bar pretty high for "best banh mi in New York" status. Just for comparison, we bought a classic banh mi at Nicky's and did a side-by-side taste test. Nicky's was fine, but it was no match for Baoguette's.

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The BBQ chicken sandwich ($5) has chicken thigh meat and skin, cucumber, scallion, and soy sauce. It's a perfectly fine if unremarkable sandwich, and my least favorite here.

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Attention, Vietnamese food purists: Avert your eyes and hold your nose while I say how much I love the baked spicy catfish banh mi ($7), made with cucumber relish, pickled red onion, and honey mustard aioli. Classic? Hardly. Delicious? Oh yes.

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The Sloppy Bao ($7) features minced spicy curried beef, green mango, and basil. It's a thoughtfully put together sandwich (based on his wife's family recipe), but it doesn't pack much heat, especially given that Loan Nguyen is from Hue, the spicy food capital of Vietnam.

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Shrimp summer rolls.

There is also an array of rolls ($5), salads ($5), and noodles ($7) on the menu, which are made with fresh ingredients, but are somehow lacking in strong, vibrant flavors.

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If you're not in the mood for a banh mi, opt for the very good, beefy bun bo Hue soup ($8), which actually has both beef and thin slices of the above-mentioned pork belly, along with vermicelli noodles. On a cold winter's day the soup is a better bet than the beef stew ($7), which has great flavor but dry cubes of too lean beef.

For dessert, have an iced Vietnamese coffee ($2). Made with condensed milk, Vietnamese coffee, and Cafe du Monde chicory coffee, it tastes like melted coffee ice cream—and there ain't nuthin' wrong with that.

Serious eaters can only hope that Hyung and Nguyen stick with Baoguette, because that would mean our great wandering Vietnamese chef has put down roots in this unassuming storefront in Murray Hill.

Read more of Ed's reviews.

48 Comments:

Ed, this sounds like something my husband would love. Is this an American-Vietnamese dish that's just here in the States? The guy is currently in Vietnam and is kind of a shy guy who's not particularly culinarily (is that even a word?) adventurous in other cultures if there is a language barrier. Darn it all, I wish I was there. In the past I have always been able to use some sort of culinary sign language when I don't have the words at hand. Regardlous, here at home, he has his preferences, but if I make it, he will eat. And if I recommend it, he will eat. So if you have any suggestions of what to eat in Ho Chi Mihn City, I would love to pass them on. I'll shoot him if he eats any more Marriott room service on his travels.

Going to this establishment is literally on my to-do list for tomorrow. When I moved to NYC, I began to miss my comforting Vietnamese food, which brought me to Nicky's - as it is all the craze lately. However, when I ate there, although it was very tasty, it would not really call it a Vietnamese sandwich. The beauty of a bánh mì is that the sandwich is on a delicious crusty, aromatic, chewy French baguette. Nicky's, however, uses more like a French roll... This may be picky and pretentious to point out, but I mean, I fervently believe that a quality sandwich is mostly in the bread, no?

If every substandard sub shop were replaced by a banh mi shop in New York, Gotham would certainly be filled with a lot more serious deliciousness.

I second this motion. Subway vs. banh mi... no contest.

Do you mean sweetened condensed milk in the iced coffee?

I'll pass on the bao drama queen sagas and suggest that we go old school. Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich shop on Broome and Mott beats ANY bahn mi in the city. Cost: $3.95 and it's not one of these slimmed down versions of a bahn mi like nicky's or baogette. plus these guys charge you an extra $1+ and you get 70% the sandwich.

Try on of Saigon's #1 spicy and tell me if anything beats it.

This seems grossly overpriced for a banh mi sandwich...in CA and TX, $2.50 - $4.00 will net you a pretty large, filling sandwich - and yes, it also tastes damn delicious.

Yes, the classic here is $5, but as I wrote I found the difference in the quality of each component of the sandwich at Baoguette well worth the dollar or so extra.

@gsd96rk1, I tried the Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich shop on Broome for my New York Times hot heroes story a few years ago. It was good, but again didn't use any of the higher quality, housemade sandwich components Baoguette does.

dhorst- this is not an American-invented dish, and it's not just here in the states.

dhorst, I'm sure your husband can find banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City. I've never been to Vietnam, but I have heard the banh mi is ubiquitous there.

@dhorst: Here's a blog you (and your husband) might be interested in: http://gastronomyblog.com/category/vietnamese/banh-mi/
Cathy (the Gastronomer) has been to Vietnam many times and has plenty of suggestions on good eats there. I've linked to the banh mi posts but you could easily spend several hours just browsing through all the deliciousness she's encountered during her trips.

I am interested, but a little sticker shocked. My vegetarian banh mi at Banh Mi Saigon is tasty, huge, hot and $4.50.

Like @gsd96rk1 (above) says Banh Mi Saigon is the way to go. Here's where you can find it: http://www.yelp.com/biz/banh-mi-saigon-new-york

i was totally there when you guys were ordering and i had a mini celebrity freakout in front of my bf who just rolled his eyes at me after i said "OMG OMG OMG FAVORITE FOOD BLOGGERS OMG OMG OMG"...didn't want to blow up your guys' spot or anything ;) although he did appreciate the deliciousness of his first bahn mi

Glad you enjoyed it. I can't agree about it being the best in the city by any means, but for anything outside of Chinatown it is a solid and well-priced option. If I'm going for taste Saigon Banh Mi No.1 is hands down better, but so out of the way. Glad to have Baoguette in the nabe.

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the fact that they appear to use the wrong bread. A banh Mi does not use a traditional french baguette, it should use a Vietnamese baguette which is made with rice flour, and is very different froma traditional one.

I also liked Baoguette, but I don't think it comes close to the overwhelming deliciousness of the banh mi at Ba Xuyen (4222 8th Ave
Brooklyn, 718-633-6601) in Sunset Park. I haven't found a banh mi in the city that's better than theirs. Plus, Ba Xuyen only charges $3.50.

Gah! I had this exact idea nearly a year ago and failed to execute (well, mostly because I'm not a chef, just an eater/idealist). First of all, I heartily disagree with the Saigon assessment--really, the bread is too thick and the ingrediants lacking in flavor (I really don't care for the crumbly meat). What scores a perfect banh mi for me is the bread to filling ratio, the texture of the bread (smell included) and I don't think of these price points as out of reach at all. If you think about it, a typical Chipotle burrito can run you $8, but the taqueria around the corner charges $5. There's a reason for this, you're paying for the upscale-ish ambiance and it seems similar here. I am very excited by the idea of a cat-fish banh mi and will be making this a mandatory stop in NYC next time!

The question I have is whether you eat the sandwich and then wonder, "wow, this pate is different and more tasty. Let me inquire where they got it from!" or if you ask about the ingredients before eating it.

And as cheap as I can be... an extra dollar really is not that much of a difference. Sure, a $1 increase of a $4 sandwich is a 25% increase but... what is everyone saving that dollar for?

The pictures definitely make this sandwich look like it's worth trying.

I don't konw Ed. I live around the corner and have been when they first opened and again yesterday. First off as mentioned before the bread is not the correct bread and the filling overwhelmed by condiments. Trust me I could do pickle and mayo, but not an entire "banh mi" of pickle and mayo. I'm sure they are trying to hit on the student crowd at baruch (esp. given the short hours) but they should try to match their quality at Mai House (when it launched), not just try to make the students happy.

You don't use jalapenos or sriracha either, if you want to really pick on authenticity.

@atomic_violin: Thanks for the correction!

@korovka: You should definitely say hi if that happens again! ;)

@sarahdg: Overwhelming deliciousness? I MUST GO THAR.

You have no idea how excited I was when this place opened by my office. I stalked them every single day when the opening was delayed and now go at least a few times a week. I fully support your "bahn mi shop on every corner platform," but cannot agree with your best-in-the-city assessment. That has to be Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park. Best. Bahn Mi. Ever.

Ohhh, Ed.

Best Banh Mi in NYC? Them's fighting words.

Just a few points:
Banh mi, banh mi. N's before h's. ( ... nails on chalkboard/makes my eyes bleed/the food blog world loves to perpetuate this misspelling.)

I haven't yet sampled the Baoguette sandwich, but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the sauce you had in the classic banh mi was Maggi and not fish sauce. You might've picked up on the fish sauce if Baoguette uses it in its cha lua/terrine.

Their bun bo hue seems to lack the deep red hue that comes from annatto seeds. You also don't speak of bun bo hue's trademark spice kick, so it seems like Baoguette's taken creative liberties there, too.

The goi cuon/summer rolls look skimpy on the requisite herbs — cilantro, mint, and scallions.

I second and third sarahdg and drybak's recommendations regarding Ba Xuyen. It's not an extraordinary banh mi if you hail from Dorchester, SoCal, San Jose, or Houston, but at least it's in keeping with those standards. Crisp crust, soft crumb, good bread-to-topping ratio. I like the fresh pickles; I like the moist meats. And they don't stint on the herbs, either.

As for Banh Mi Saigon? Probably the "most authentic" of Manhattan's banh mi, but I object to their gum-cutting rolls.

Thanks, Tam, for clarifying 'n' before 'h'! It hurts me. It also hurts me that it should be 'Hyunh' is incorrect. It should be 'Huynh'!!

@Ed: many thanks for providing such a great forum for discussions on deliciousness. I wish Baoguette much success and would have loved to been with there with you and Robyn for the massive tasting! Best.

also, to agree with the wrong bread comments, the bread is just plain hard every time I eat here. It's severely cut my mouth on numerous occasions. With better bread it would be a steal of a sandwich.

@tina_eats. Thank you so much. You know what I'll be perusing for the next little while.

@ jasonmolinari & CafePhine

THANK YOU! that's my biggest beef w/ NY banh mi...NONE of the supposed temples (Ba Xuyen, Nicky's, etc) use the most important component: A rice-flour baguette.

If you're going to argue that a terrific regional specialty needs to elevated/enlightened by using the best ingredients, it's strange to start off on the wrong foot with the BREAD.

Nitpicky, yes. But a rice flour baguette is the product of TRUE fusion (NOT trend-fusion), the staple of a formerly French-occupied country, and absolutely represents the essence of Vietnamese food. It has an airier crumb and texture, and swapping it out w/ a wheat one is tantamount to swapping LA pizza crust w/ NY pizza crust.

I'm sure Baoguette serves a delish sandwich that I'd be happy to indulge in. But it's momofuku-ed vietnamese food, customized to midtown lunching and trend-chasing needs. Call a spade a spade.

"gum-cutting rolls."

I object to this. After reading this post, I got a craving and went to Saigon for a spicy #1. I marveled at how amazingly perfect the texture of the bread was. Maybe I just got lucky, or maybe you were unlucky and got some stale bread, I don't know, but the crust was crispy and crunchy yet thin and delicate, and the crumb was a light puff. I wondered how they got the crust like that, it was almost as though it was toasted, but showed no signs of such. I guess it was just very very fresh.

Anyway, thanks for the post, you inspired me and I had a fantastic lunch as a result. Fresh pressed sugar cane juice was delish too I might add.

Dont' miss the restaurant next door called Latin Thing. Ecuadorian Chicken with yellow rice, black beans, pico di gallo and the homemade guacamole is the best Only two tables and it is a very narrow space so plan for take out.
Looking forward to trying Baoguette!

@ Simon

OHOHOH! THAT'S a rice flour baguette! THAT'S how things SHOULD be!

@simon: It's best to get to Banh Mi Saigon at a decent lunch hour, when there's been decent turnover of the bread. Sadly, I'm never this lucky.

Regarding banh mi made with rice flour vs. all-purpose, there's a bit of contention among Viet bakers as well. http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/05/vietnamese_bagu.html

Sorry, but if you think Hue is the 'spicy food capital of Vietnam' you have not eaten in some of the provinces off the usual tourist circuit. Even Da Nang has spicier food as its norm than Hue! But a very evocative piece -- my only question is about the baguettes, do they approximate Ha Noi, Sai Gon, or other banh mi; or are they as unlike banh mi Viet as most US apologies for baguettes?

Concur with the general trend of this thread that Baogette is no great shakes.Though I wouldn't know a rice flour baguette if it whacked me upside the head, I did note that the bread in the Baogette sandwich wasn't as pleasant as the banh mi I've had at other locations. My problem was that the meat was too sugary and the mayo too goopy, tossing off the balance of the sandwich. Did anyone else think that the meat was too sweet? Was it just me? I'd rather have slices of spongy Vietnamese sausage.

Maybe I'm just the sort of philistine who likes her cheap pleasures to stay cheap, and thus I have an intractable bias against haut-ified fast food such as this place. My first banh mi was from a little storefront in Chinatown, and I thought it was manna from heaven; Baoguette, for all of its cheffy flourishes, isn't quite the same in ambiance or in execution.

If it helps to popularize the sandwich, which is truly delicious and should be better known to the masses, then I think it's a good thing.

After reading this, I had to go try it out. The classic was great, but next time I'll ask for extra pickled veggies and jalapenos. The catfish was awesome though.

I'm fortunate to have my choice of bahn mi shops within a short drive of where I live. The bread is important, some places nail it, others don't. And, they're cheaper here, thank goodness.

You have the address wrong. It is 61 Lexington Avenue.

I'm still waiting for a vietnamese restaurant in Manhattan that uses all the correct herbs (purple shizo, fish mint, vietnamese coriander etc.) Many just opt out and only offer thai basil in their dishes or as side accoutrements.

Just finished the classic ($5) and the Super ($7).

The classic was OK, but the roll was huge and doughy. Nothing crunchy to enjoy.

The Super was not super at all. The roast beef was of extremely poor quality; I took out all the meat and just ate the carrots, basil and cucumber. Even though it was spicy, it disappointed.

Service was wanting. Customers waited for orders, while the four people working there didn't pitch in to get them out quickly. The sandwich maker (Mexican? guy wearing a Burritoville baseball cap) worked hard, while a woman took her sweet time making one salad while he pumped out four sandwiches. The cashier rang up three customers in 30 seconds, and then stared at the sandwich maker the rest of the time. Another man sat tapping on a laptop, only occasionally turning around to chat with the Vietnamese staff.

I'm not going back, although I've been dying for a place like this to show up in my neighborhood. Food + service = don't bother.

Just had the classic for lunch today. As others have said, the bread was excellent, with the perfect crispyness to it. However, the filling left a bit to be desired. It was very meaty tasting, which is a good thing, but was lacking the highly flavorful, sweet/spicy crispyness of a normal banh-mi. It just didn't taste like a banh-mi.

Overall, I'd give it a B, primarily because of the bread. It's good, and the meaty flavor is nice, but I'm looking for a banh mi, and it just didn't taste anything like it. Saigon is head-and-shoulders above Baoguette.

The other sandwiches looked nice, but I haven't tried any of them.

I finally made the trip to Kip's Bay (the true neighborhood of this shop) and I ordered a classic and the catfish. I'm a picky about my classic banh mi, I like the head cheese salty and the pate porky, and this was a slightly different twist. The pate was different from what I was used to, a little more mushroomy, but still enjoyable. While the cat fish curry was appropriately spicy, I just thought it was a tad too sweet. I still hope the Baoguette trend catches on, I need people to know there are alternatives to 5 dollah footlongs.

I have been on a Banh Mi kick this week to discover the best in town. So far I've been to: Paris Bakery, Saigon Bakery, the new An Choi and then back to Paris all in one week. Paris is more of a $4 smaller baguette but so fresh and great bread. Saigon, was bummed about the Special and the bread felt like a hoagie but great price under $4. An Choi (Orchard/Grand) great sit down, their Special is ok, their grilled pork was DELISH! I loved their touch of serving it with shrimp chips, priced at $5-5.50 but you can actually sit and enjoy the restaurant. Their iced coffee... meh, very weak.

I'm a bit hesitant to try Baogette but its next along with Nikki's for the taste test. There should be more Banh Mi spots in the city, its an odd thing that New Yorkers have not entirely discovered while we are so international. In cities like Seattle and San Francisco they are much more recognized.

Every sub par SUB shop should become Banh Mi fo sho!

Check out this site: http://battleofthebanhmi.com/

I discovered Banh mi sandwiches about 7 years ago and they were a revelation: crunchy and soft; sweet, spicy, and savory; cold and warm all in one glorious bite. Baoguette's version is fine if you're in the Curry Hill area and you've a hankering, but it doesn't hold a candle to those served at Banh Mi So 1 on Broome or Saigon Banh Mi on Elizabeth. To my knowledge, Banh Mi is served on a hero roll made partly with rice flour, which gives it a fluffy, airy lightness. Baoguette's bread did not have this special texture - it seemed to have the density of a typical baguette. The meats were fine combined with everything else but not very tasty individually (I kind of deconstructed the sandwich as I ate). On a positive side, the sandwich was generous in size and contained lots of fresh cilantro. Baoguette has a sandwich titled the "Sloppy Bao" that I'd return to try - beef in green curry and some other interesting ingredients - but I'll do my best from here on in to get my banh mi fix further downtown.

Waited 15 minutes on line to order at prime lunch time - not bad. Waited another 30 minutes on top of that to actually get my sandwich. During which time they ran out of pork (there was more cooking in the oven). During which time the two people behind the counter were taking their sweet time to the point where I wanted to jump back there and help them out.

So I finally got my sandwich and it was quite good. Worth the wait? Maybe. Maybe once a month, but certainly not once a week. Bread was not warm as they were using it up too fast to get any QT under the warmer.

In other news, unless they storing their "house made" mayo in industrial size Hellman's bottles, it's not so much homemade.

Baoguette is pretty good, but I felt they should toast the bread more, that is what would make them stand out. if they are gonna do business during the day when its very busy, i don't see how they can toast/bake bread properly.

btw, check out my banh mi site listing all banh mi places in nyc
http://www.nychinatown.org/directory/m_banhmi.html

Baogette's iced coffee is a disappointing affair---UNBELIEVABLY TASTELESS and WEAK with JUST A HINT OF SWEETNESS due to a STINGY amount of sweetened condensed milk. Was so looking forward to that rich, creamy coffee that is a signature of Vietnamese restaurants from Chinatown to Jackson Heights. The sandwiches are good and filling but the HONEY MUSTARD on the FISH sandwich puts it on par with deli food--not good.

Paris Sandwiches on Mott St Nicky's on E. 2nd have something going on with their food which is tastier.

The Baogette on Christopher st. (120 Christopher st.) is better than the one on lexington. In addition to the regular banh mi's they have pho in the back. I'm Vietnamese. I've grown up eating Vietnamese pho and I've had pho in Vietnam. Let me tell you, the pho there is delicious! It comes close to one of my favorites. The soup is so hearty and really hits home for me. The scallions are fresh and you can really smell the ingredients. Taste like how my grandma used to make it! I also tried the beef tongue. Exceptional as well.

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