'New York Times' Dining Roundup

Posted by Hannah Howard, December 17, 2008 at 11:45 AM

It's All About the Butter: The most common mistakes made by home bakers have to do with the care and handling of this one ingredient.

Hanukkah in a Paris Restaurant: Daniel Rose, whose tiny Paris restaurant is a runaway hit, reimagined some of the dishes on his menu as recipes for Hanukkah. Think deep-fried brandade latkes.

The Foil Pie Pan Goes Platinum: Italian artisans spruced up the humble foil pie pan. The solid ceramic version, covered with a platinum glaze, is pretty but too fragile for real baking.

A Humble, Tasty Cut: The brawny cut known as flanken produces pot roast that is meltingly tender and profoundly beefy.

Celeb Chef Not Cooking: Rocco DiSpirito takes heat for spending more time in pursuit of fame, fortune, and pink ruffled shirts than in the kitchen.

G. Franco Romagnoli Dies: With his wife, Margaret, Mr. Romagnoli helped introduce Americans to authentic Italian home cooking on the 1970s PBS series The Romagnolis' Table and in a series of best-selling cookbooks.

Meringues: If you don’t want to mess with pastry bags, a Ziploc bag makes a fabulous substitute.

Zero Stars: That's what Frank Bruni gives to David Bouley’s Secession, where the very long menu includes many unremarkable dishes.

English Christmas: In Elizabeth David’s Christmas, the recipes looks to France, Italy, Spain and even North Africa for inspiration.

Lebanese at Naya: The place has shiny spaceship-to-Soho décor and precisely seasoned, unusually authentic food, like house-made lamb sausage with sweet spices and crunchy pine nuts.

Brooklyn’s Eurotrip: This gastro-bar in Brooklyn’s South Slope serves "Mittel-European comfort food in what might be called recession-era portions."

Alaskan Catch: Smoked Bering cisco is even richer than whitefish, with an almost creamy flesh.

Rum Cakes from Italy: Leftover panettone, a traditional Italian fruit-studded Christmas cake, makes great french toast. Now there's a party version, dolled up with a vanilla-cream filling, rum-soaked layers and a dusting of chocolate.

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