Print'New York Times' Dining Roundup
It's All About the Butter: The most common mistakes made by home bakers have to do with the care and handling of this one ingredient.
Hanukkah in a Paris Restaurant: Daniel Rose, whose tiny Paris restaurant is a runaway hit, reimagined some of the dishes on his menu as recipes for Hanukkah. Think deep-fried brandade latkes.
The Foil Pie Pan Goes Platinum: Italian artisans spruced up the humble foil pie pan. The solid ceramic version, covered with a platinum glaze, is pretty but too fragile for real baking.
A Humble, Tasty Cut: The brawny cut known as flanken produces pot roast that is meltingly tender and profoundly beefy.
Celeb Chef Not Cooking: Rocco DiSpirito takes heat for spending more time in pursuit of fame, fortune, and pink ruffled shirts than in the kitchen.
G. Franco Romagnoli Dies: With his wife, Margaret, Mr. Romagnoli helped introduce Americans to authentic Italian home cooking on the 1970s PBS series The Romagnolis' Table and in a series of best-selling cookbooks.
Meringues: If you don’t want to mess with pastry bags, a Ziploc bag makes a fabulous substitute.
Zero Stars: That's what Frank Bruni gives to David Bouley’s Secession, where the very long menu includes many unremarkable dishes.
English Christmas: In Elizabeth David’s Christmas, the recipes looks to France, Italy, Spain and even North Africa for inspiration.
Lebanese at Naya: The place has shiny spaceship-to-Soho décor and precisely seasoned, unusually authentic food, like house-made lamb sausage with sweet spices and crunchy pine nuts.
Brooklyn’s Eurotrip: This gastro-bar in Brooklyn’s South Slope serves "Mittel-European comfort food in what might be called recession-era portions."
Alaskan Catch: Smoked Bering cisco is even richer than whitefish, with an almost creamy flesh.
Rum Cakes from Italy: Leftover panettone, a traditional Italian fruit-studded Christmas cake, makes great french toast. Now there's a party version, dolled up with a vanilla-cream filling, rum-soaked layers and a dusting of chocolate.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
6 Comments:
Is anyone else a little "ewww" about the platinum pie plate? Talk about useless... and though covered in precious metal, looks like a pie plate. Though it is decidedly coy, it is not what I need in my kitchen.
Elizabelle at 1:56PM on 12/17/08
@Elizabelle. Agreed. It might be cool if it was functional, but as is, it's just a waste of ceramic, platinum, and money.
emgroff at 2:13PM on 12/17/08
Here we go again with short ribs. Flanken is flanken-style short ribs and yet the NYT article makes it sound as if flanken and short ribs are two different things.
Asado at 2:20PM on 12/17/08
The Foil Pie Pan goes platinum
Alternatively, there's Lorena Battazueta's Gourmet Collection, made in Brooklyn. Most of them are oven and dishwasher safe.
zamboni at 3:20PM on 12/17/08
@Asado--furthermore, I'd never heard the term "flanken" before reading this article, and, despite admitting that it's "obscure", the author does not proceed to tell us where we are supposed to find this flanken.
Michele Humes at 4:18PM on 12/17/08
@Michele: I'll admit that I have made similar mistakes in the past regarding short ribs but I was not writing for a major publisher, nor was I a professional chef or restaurant owner. Most of my knowledge came from articles similar to this one or cookbooks but, I have made the effort to fix that problem.
There appears to be some general consensus among many in the food industry that the definition of short ribs applies to some small unique rib section, cut in a certain way, thus making the cut very expensive. Like those recipes for braised short ribs. Well, what section of the ribs are you talking about? Chuck, rib, plate? Flanken-cut or English-cut? Some sections have way more fat than others and that can make a huge difference. Same with those special burger mixes that are frequently popping up these days. Oh, our burgers contain chuck, brisket, and short ribs? Huh? Are you talking about rib meat from the 2nd to 5th rib? 6th to 10th? Short plate?
Then there is the subject of what the butcher thinks of as short ribs when you simply ask for short ribs....
Asado at 5:51PM on 12/17/08