Craft brewer Phil Markowski of the Southampton Publick House.

Burkhard Bilger’s recent New Yorker narrative on the extreme exploits of Dogfish Head breweries—including the recreation of an ancient ale with the aid of an archeological chemist—inspired me to reconnect with my own hometown craft brewer Phil Markowski of the Southampton Publick House, who has birthed his share of unusual beers.

His 1996 Peconic County Reserve was fermented with grapes from nearby Wolffer Estate Vineyard and aged in wine barrels—highly unusual at the time, but “almost passé now.” At the Great American Beer Festival in 2000, Markowski's Double Ice Bock—frozen at one stage to boost its alcohol content to a mind-numbing 18 percent by volume—took the gold in the “Strong Ales & Lagers” category.

Publick House's bottled beers, including their spicy, aromatic Double White (the first of that style made in the United States, and the brewery's most popular offering), are showing up around the country. But the only way to tap the full range of Markowski’s tinkering is to visit the brewpub.

“The term extreme beers tends to excite and offend an equal number of people,” Markowski told me. “Within the industry, I'm starting to hear of people who are weary of all this attention to extreme, unconventional, and off the wall.”

Which is not to say that Markowski, who has earned raves from locals as well as geeks on online forums like Beer Advocate or Rate Beer, is opposed to experimentation. Craft beer exists, in part, to counteract the homogenization that overwhelmed brewing several decades ago. Continuing the art of craft brews ensures the scenario of stepping into a bar, always with more than one beer choice.

But while nonconformism is Dogfish's mantra, it isn't necessarily part of Markowski’s M.O.

“I’m not constantly searching,” he said, “And asking, ‘What would be another interesting thing to put in beer.’ That becomes all consuming. It's not as enjoyable for me or for most beer drinkers. Ultimately people want to enjoy a full glass of beer and not have it be so challenging that it’s not fun.” Instead of the more-is-better, high-alcohol brews that have wowed critics in recent years, Markowski's preferences run towards what the British call, “session beers.” The low-alcohol, high-flavor beers are so-named, Markowski explained, “because they allow you to endure a long session at the pub without falling over.”

To try all that Publick House has to offer, attend the microbrewery's annual customer appreciation night this Thursday, December 18, from 5 to 8 p.m. There will be $2 drafts, giveaways, tasty treats (including several beer-battered items on the pub's menu) and holiday music by DJ Dory. Here's some of what you’ll be able to sip:

• Big Brown Ale: An American-style brown ale that is bigger and bolder than the classic English brown, but still with hints of chocolate and caramel.
• The French Country Christmas Ale: A seasonal farmhouse brew traditionally put up for winter, it’s got a spicy malt flavor and a 7 percent alcohol level that warms the finish.
• The Espresso Stout: A easy-to-drink, yet full-bodied stout made with real espresso beans from nearby Hampton Coffee Company.
• Abby Single: The flavorful beer was what the trappists themselves drank. (They sold the douple and triples.)

Publick House

40 Bowden Square, Southampton NY 11968 (map)
631-283-2800
publick.com