PrintDo You Agree with Frank Bruni's Three Stars to Ssam Bar?
The now infamous pork bun at Momofuku Ssäm Bar. Photograph by Robyn Lee
I thought Ben Leventhal of Eater was crazy when he predicted the Times' Frank Bruni would bestow three stars on David Chang's Ssäm Bar in his re-review (the original was in early 2007 for two stars).
But Ben deserves props—he nailed it. I always thought the food deserved three stars, even with lunch burritos still on the menu. It's the service at Ssäm Bar that I thought would get in the way of the three-bagger. Not that it's bad. It's just ultra-casual, and I didn't think Bruni would give three stars to an ultra-casual restaurant.
I also didn't understand Bruni's comment on the pricing. Yes, you can get two small plates for twenty dollars—sans wine, tax, and tip—but I don't know any diners who have left there without spending more. I'm sounding much more churlish than I mean to sound here, because I too love and admire the almost uniformly and seriously delicious food at Ssäm Bar.
Bruni acknowledges the oft-idiosyncratic shortcomings of the restaurant; the no coffee or tea policy; the rushed feeling (which I often feel too when eating here with one other person); and the near-deafening noise level that often causes me to sound hoarse at the end of the meal (because I've just spent an hour talking over the din).
I would add one more: the backless stools are just not all that comfortable.
But in the end, Bruni decides the restaurant deserves three stars for the best reasons imaginable: "I've circled back because eating at Ssäm feels so unencumbered, honest and joyful, and because I can't stop reflecting on the daring and importance of Mr. Chang's work there."
In its own way, Bruni's review is a very gutsy one born of his very real passion for Ssäm Bar's food. So the real props here don't belong to Ben Leventhal, but to Chang, chef Tien Ho, and general manager/wine director Cory Lane. And yes, to Bruni as well.
What do the rest of the serious eaters think?
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10 Comments:
I definitely do not agree. It's a great spot, but the food is inconsistent. And the price to eatings ratio is way off. Three stars to me is appropriate for a more formal restaurant. Ko is worthy of three stars. Not Ssam bar. Bruni has seriously lost it.
simon at 11:06AM on 12/03/08
"I haven't eaten at Momofuku Ssäm Bar since chef Tien Ho was installed..."
Tien has been at Ssam Bar since day one.
spaetzle at 12:08PM on 12/03/08
I stand corrected. I should have said "I haven't eaten there since the renovation."
Ed Levine at 12:22PM on 12/03/08
Important to remember the following: WHAT THE STARS MEAN Ratings range from zero to four stars and reflect the reviewer’s reaction to food, ambience and service, with price taken into consideration.
So a four star restaurant is a top restaurant in its price range. I have eaten at Ssam twice in the past month and feel that three stars at that price range is merited. Great food in extreme comfort. I think that' what appealed to Bruni more so than the price point. Loved the music too.
Jerseyjohn at 12:39PM on 12/03/08
Yeah, I hate the hype, too, but I really do love eating at Ssam. I think the food has gotten even better over the last couple of months and, being the type of person I am, the relaxed service and the music make me very happy.
I've taken some out of town friends who demanded it, and I tried to be surly about it, but I left well fed and pleased. Sometimes a good restaurant is just a good restaurant, hype be damned.
empath at 12:52PM on 12/03/08
I like the 3 star rating....
Although I hate this term, I think that more than any restaurant I've been to in NY Ssam has the power to turn anyone into a "foodie". Sure, the food is delicious, but anyone who visits can easily get excited about the quality of the ingredients, the innovation of the recipes, and the dedication of the chefs and servers -- without thinking too much about it.
Its' like the Beatles of dining out in NY.
JudgeFudge at 2:23PM on 12/03/08
I think Bruni was right on about coming here for a snack. Its such an amazing street for food, its perfectly reasonable to get some pork buns and something new and then continue along... Little Poland, Bar Carrera, Otafuku... grab their best offerings and keep moving
picklesandchocolate at 4:29PM on 12/09/08
I think the 3 stars make sense. It's loud and cramped, but it really is joyous to eat there. The service is casual, but it is very polished in its own way. But the main reason I think it merits 3 stars is that it is not just a place that makes a certain genre of food exceptionally. It is re-making and re-creating the genre of American food exceptionally. And it does so consistently with many of their dishes. Their pork buns are a take on an old Korean-Chinese dish, but they make it perfect and they make it new. The fried brussels sprouts uses a classic Vietnamese sauce as its base and then, well, adds fried brussels sprouts (that one might just speak for itself). The fried lamb belly, which I'm not sure is still on their menu, is a take on breast of lamb St. Menehould, but again, they make it new and make it their own. And it all tastes delicious. The restaurant is a convergence of tradition and creativity, intelligence and down-to-earth comfort. It is exciting.
chungle at 1:33AM on 12/15/08
We've been to Ssam many times, and this past July for my husband's and son's birthdays we reserved a Ssam and brought 7 friends with us. We ordered several (many) other dishes. It was spectacular. It wasn't cheap ($700+ - lots of wine and beer) but it was incredible.
Yes, the service is informal, but the waiters we've had there have always been well-informed and surprisingly gracious. The stools are incredibly uncomfortable. It's loud. But the above posters are right - there is a joy, an energy, a creativity and an intelligence that transcends the discomfort. It deserves 3 stars.
Melp at 8:27AM on 12/15/08
I do not agree with the three stars. Two months ago I had a pate there which would have been laughable in Paris where I spend a fair amount of time. The accompaying relish also lacked any finesse. A three star restaurant needs to be consistently good; the French style dishes were not one star.
Regina
rlanford at 2:47PM on 12/15/08