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This Weekend in 'New York Times' Food News

‘C' Word Misuse: “Chef” has pretty much replaced “gourmet cook” to describe anyone who cooks well, a change that not only reflects an imprecision of language but gets to the heart of how we experience food.

Stuffed Prosciutto, Salmon and Eggplant: Rolls as pretty as sushi, but much easier to create.

The Homesick Restaurant: At a Pakistani dinner in London, a family finds food from home and their cousin cooking in the kitchen.

England’s Wild West: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's mission is to change peoples’ relationship to food production. At his new restaurant, the River Cottage Canteen, in the market town of Axminster, even the wine is local.

A Taste of Puerto Rico in East Harlem: Once carried by wives to laborers in the fields, the meat-filled cakes called pasteles are made by women who cook them at home and sell them by the dozen. They're worth the hard work.

Cranberries Go Abroad: Facing a glut of cranberries forcing prices to record lows, farmers began selling their uniquely American crop overseas. To many foreign palates, the bright, bitter berry is exotic.

A Red for Winter: Peter Lehmann’s warming 2005 shiraz can subdue winter with its spice, chocolate and tobacco flavors.

Chicken for Everyone: Halal Live Meat and Poultry Market in Queens was opened to serve the Muslim community, but its clientele include a Nigerian exchange student heading home from biology class, a Salvadoran mango vendor, and Orthodox Jews who come accompanied by a shochet, a person trained to slaughter animals according to kosher ritual.

Grain Exchange: A home cook learns that farro and spelt are not interchangeable.

Warsaw's U Kucharzy: This casual restaurant is home to the city's most renowned steak tartare.

Travel: Red wine and ham in Florence; 36 hours in Phoenix; Piran, Slovenia has Italy's fresh seafood and pasta without the throngs of tourists; chicken and dumplings and country fried steak in Atlanta.

2 Comments:

OMG I'd kill for a pastel right now. There is nothing better than pasteles.

If you don't have Hugh's 'Meat' book, put it on your Christmas list. It's fantastic.

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