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Serious Eats: New York

'New York Times' Dining Roundup

Posted by Hannah Howard, November 19, 2008

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Gravy Makes Thanksgiving: Great gravy will elevate everything else on the table.

Turkey Day Sides: Some cooks plan to keep it simple, while others look to trick out their Thanksgiving meal with challenges and luxury.

Olivier Roellinger Turns in His Michelin Stars: Making him the fourth three-Michelin star chef in France to renounce his stars in recent years. He will close his Brittany landmark, Maisons de Bricourt, and serve food in a less formal setting.

Poultry Project: Good Shepherd Turkey Ranch in Lindsborg, Kansas is dedicated to preserving the genetic lines of "perfect" poultry.

Turkey Cruelty Discovered: PETA released undercover videos taken at the nation’s premier poultry-breeding operation, showing turkeys being smashed into loading cages like basketballs, stomped to death, and punched by workers.

Wine and the Violin: David Chan, a concertmaster of the Metropolitan Opera Orchestra, sees a bond between his two passions: music and wine.

12-Year-Old Food Critic: An adventurous young foodie tries tripe and doesn't hate it.

Zero Stars: For Kurve, which "looks like a nail salon on Venus." Frank Bruni muses, how do "restaurateurs pour this much money and this much vanity into a project and bungle it to the extent that the Kurve brigade does?"

Breakfast in the Classroom: Serving breakfast in the classroom rather than the cafeteria appears to remove the stigma attached to kids who qualify for low-income meals. Plus, eating at your desk is fun.

Home in the West Village: The new chef, Ross Gill, is serving sublime clam chowder and crisp-skinned grilled brook trout.

One of the Better 4 a.m. Meals: The BCD Tofu House chain of Korean restaurants started in Los Angeles, where it’s regarded as something like Denny’s with kimchi. The NYC outpost is more stylish, and the spicy pickled crab rocks.

Pie Partnership: In time for the holidays, Butterfield Kitchen on the Upper East Side will bake from scratch the pies and cobblers of Kathleen King of Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton, N.Y.

Candied Bacon With Whipped Cream: Make it at home. It's simple and delicious.

Milk Bar is Magic: Christina Tosi's concoctions for the Momofuku Bakery and Milk Bar, like crack pie and chorizo challah, are fearless.

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