November 2008
Posted by Hannah Howard, November 30, 2008 at 3:00 PM
‘C' Word Misuse: “Chef” has pretty much replaced “gourmet cook” to describe anyone who cooks well, a change that not only reflects an imprecision of language but gets to the heart of how we experience food.
Stuffed Prosciutto, Salmon and Eggplant: Rolls as pretty as sushi, but much easier to create.
The Homesick Restaurant: At a Pakistani dinner in London, a family finds food from home and their cousin cooking in the kitchen.
England’s Wild West: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's mission is to change peoples’ relationship to food production. At his new restaurant, the River Cottage Canteen, in the market town of Axminster, even the wine is local.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 30, 2008 at 9:00 AM
If you could play Jenga with cans, and make something cool with it that didn't topple, that would describe the Canstruction 2008 exhibit at the World Financial Center. Since the artists were from top architectural and engineering firms across North America, though, the results actually were pretty cool. To magnify the coolness, all food will be donated to City Harvest after the exhibit closes on December 2.
The one above is called "DunCAN Donut," and was made from 3,241 cans, including sardines and tuna. Mmm, a sardine donut!
More photos of can art, after the jump.
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Posted by Brian Halweil, November 29, 2008 at 9:00 AM
Christmas is coming early at Townline BBQ. The road house on Highway 27 in Wainscott generated quite a buzz in recent weeks when it announced that it would carve out a space along side its smokers to make sopa de tortilla, burritos, carne asada tacos and other favorites from its sister restaurant, La Fondita, the popular takeout café a few towns east, which usually closes for the winter.
But that’s not all. The Texas style barbecue joint has also rolled out perhaps our region’s best happy hour deal, just in time for the national shift towards thriftiness. From 4-7 p.m. on Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays, and 2-7 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, enjoy $2 drafts from local favorites like Southampton Publick House and Blue Point Brewery, as well as urban imports from Brooklyn Brewery and Sixpoints Craft Ale. And to soak up the suds are 10-cent buffalo wings and 25-cent sliders.
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Posted by BrianYarvin, November 28, 2008 at 12:00 PM
When you drive down Oak Tree Road in Edison, there are things you expect to see; sari shops, huge Indian grocery stores, and restaurants that boast "pure vegetarian." Then there are things that true Indian cuisine watchers know to look for that the rest of us don't expect. At the top of that list is are restaurants that serve Indian/Chinese—that is, the Chinese food served in India.
While this is the sort of thing that makes me really curious, I've eaten in enough of these places to be really suspicious. Just when I was beginning to become convinced that "Indian/Chinese" was defined by gloppy sauces and the flavor of raw chilies, I discovered Calcutta, an Indian/Chinese restaurant on (where else?) Oak Tree Road in Edison.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 28, 2008 at 9:00 AM
Photograph by roboppy
South Street Seaport Tree Lighting Ceremony
Friday, November 28, 6:00 p.m.
Join Edible Manhattan for one of the city's first tree lightings of the season. Sample apples, cider, and coffee and enjoy festive performances by the Soul Tigers, Big Apple Chorus, and Big Apple Circus. South Street Seaport (Fulton Street bn. South and Water Streets); 212-732-7678; event website
Finnish Christmas Bazaar
Friday, November 28, 12:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Saturday, November 29, 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Shop for holiday gifts and crafts and sample gløgg, riisipuuro, and other Finnish delicacies. St. John's Lutheran Church, 81 Christopher Street (nr. Bleecker Street and Seventh Avenue); event website via Eating in Translation
9th Annual Winter's Eve at Lincoln Center
Monday, December 1, 5:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Revel in merriment at Time Warner Center's tree lighting ceremony. Savor cocoa and cider along with tastings from New York's finest restaurants (including Bar Boulud, Bouchon Bakery, Landmarc, and Tavern on the Green). Samples are free or up to $4 a taste. A portion of the proceeds will benefit City Harvest, New York City's food-rescue organization. Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle (at Broadway bn. 63rd and 64th Streets and at Richard Tucker Park between 65th and 66th Streets); event website
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 26, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Cute logo brought to you by Cakespy.
This weekend get awesome French-style macarons from Itzy Bitzy Patisserie at the Brooklyn Flea in Fort Greene. The woman behind Itzy Bitzy Patisserie, Mitzy Budiono, took classes with French macaron master Pierre Hèrme—it's the real deal. Even though the Brooklyn Flea is an outdoor market, you should brave the cold; I went last weekend even though my feet almost froze off, and it was totally worth it. You can choose from six types of macarons: pumpkin, pistachio, passion fruit, chocolate caramel pecan, chestnut green tea, and coffee. Each one is $2.50, or save money by getting a six-pack for $12. Need more convincing? Read my previous post about Mitzy's macarons.
Itzy Bitzy Patisserie at the Brooklyn Flea
176 Lafayette Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11238 (map)
brownstoner.com/brooklynflea/
Sundays until Dec. 21, 10 a.m - 5 p.m.
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- Kim Severson will be live blogging Thanksgiving!?! [Diner's Journal]
- Top Chef winner Hung is planning on opening his own Kosher restaurant in the Spring [Grub Street]
- Buttermilk Channel opened last night in Carroll Gardens [Strong Buzz]
- A round up of Thanksgiving links [Eater]
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 26, 2008 at 4:30 PM
Every Wednesday we post delicious educational opportunities in New York for the approaching weekend and the following week. All classes listed still have openings, but if you hear otherwise, please let us know.
'Techniques of Asian Cooking' at ICE
Monday, December 1, through Thursday, December 4, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m, $425
Learn the ins and outs of wok cooking, identifying ingredients and types of rice, making sushi, and preparing dishes in Southeast Asian, Chinese, and Japanese cuisines. Dishes include pad thai, green & red curries, Filipino adobo, pork potstickers, pan-fried ramen with beef and broccoli, grilled eggplant with miso sauce, and coconut mango rice--to name a few.
The Institute of Culinary Education, 50 West 23rd Street (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan; 800-522-4610; web.iceculinary.com for more info and registration
'Desserts First' at Murray's Cheese
Monday, December 1, 6:30 to 8 p.m., $75
Mmmmm. This is advertised as a "decadent tasting of after dinner duos." Get ready to taste some luscious wine and cheese. There are 4 seats available.
Murray's Cheese, 254 Bleecker Street (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan; 212-243.3289; murrayscheese.com for info and registration
'Italian Fish and Shellfish Intensive' at the Italian Culinary Academy
Tuesday, December 2 through Tuesday, December 9 (Tuesdays and Thursdays), 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., $825
This three session class is focused on Italian seafood dishes, cooking alongside the academy's best instructors. You'll have your own workstation in a really awesome (I know, I've been there) Italian kitchen.
Italian Culinary Academy, 462 Broadway (at Grand Street), Manhattan; 888-324-CHEF; italianculinaryacademy.com for info and registration
More classes--and a free NYPL lecture--after the jump.
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Posted by Linnea Covington, November 26, 2008 at 3:15 PM
How many ways can you eat Thanksgiving dinner? At Empanada Mama, they deep fry a wheat flower shell that's been stuffed with celery stuffing, fresh thyme, rosemary, and turkey. It's served on a plate and covered in sage gravy with a side of apple-raisin-cranberry sauce. The flavor combination has a distinct taste of the holiday feasts past, but the unique presentation has you feeling like you aren't eating a turkey dinner.
For $15.95, Empanada Mama serves two of the hand-held treats with a side of butternut squash soup and a pumpkin pie cocktail—a rich concoction of Kahlua, Bailey's and pumpkin pie spices. Or, just try the empanada by itself for $3.50.
Empanada Mama
763 9th Ave (b/n 50 and 51 Streets; map)
212-698-9008
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 26, 2008 at 2:15 PM
Years ago Calvin Trillin wrote an essay called “Spaghetti Carbonara Day.” It’s a passionate and hilarious plea to have the classic Italian dish replace turkey as the main course on Thanksgiving. I’m not sure what he’d think of the spaghetti carbonara with bacon and basil that’s being served up by the bizarre East Village restaurant Kurve. I bet he’d run for the hills if he saw the above photo though. To borrow a phrase coined by Frank Bruni in his scathing goose-egg review of the joint, I guess that’s what spaghetti carbonara would like at "a nail salon on Venus."
As anyone who’s been following the blogs knows, chef/owner Andy Yang was quick to point out that Bruni was mistaken to say that Kurve is hopping on the carbonara bandwagon. Yang’s claim that spaghetti carbonara is quite popular in Thailand seems true based on a Google search that reveals it’s also served in Malaysia. When I ordered it as a late-night snack the waitress made sure to warn me about the spice level.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 26, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Lolo Manso's outstanding paella. Photograph by Robyn Lee
After reading about the possible impending demise of SE:NY favorite La Nacional in our talk section I called chef-owner Lulo Manso to get the scoop. He didn't want to comment, so I am respecting his wishes.
But you can be sure I am going to the following: A "Taste of Spain" party on Thursday, December 4th (starting around 7 p.m.) For a small $50 donation you will be treated to endless tapas, sangria, and lots of other delicious things I wrote about. La Nacional is located at 239 West 14th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues. Serious Eaters, be there or be square.
Related:
La Nacional: The Best, and Quirkiest, Spanish Restaurant in New York
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 26, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Thanksgiving Like a C.E.O.: Preparing a large meal and running a company aren’t all that different. Remember to delegate responsibility.
Pre-Feast Nibbles: Small, tasty, and simple snacks to serve before an excessive meal.
Gael Greene Gone from New York Magazine: After 40 years, the Insatiable Critic has been fired. Greene influenced the way New Yorkers ate, and served as a lusty narrator of New York restaurant life.
So Many Squash: With at least 150 varieties of winter squash, and more added every year, it is hard to know which is best for a savory stew and which kind to bake into a pie for dessert.
Spruced Up Mac and Cheese: A mac and cheese skeptic is converted by a recipe with Humboldt Fog, a beefy Californian goat cheese.
A Wine Region's Comeback: Pouilly-Fuissé is trendy once again—and as tasty as ever.
A Book About Bagels: Maria Balinska's new book views Polish-Jewish history through the lens of the humble bagel.
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Salad at West Branch. Photograph by Robyn Lee
- "What’s better than a plate of pillowy gnocchi on a cold winter night? They’re covered in braised veal breast and ricotta salata. Steak tartare is silky and tastes of fresh olive oil," at West Branch [Sutton; Bloomberg]
- At Double Crown "the perfume of star anise, garlic, ginger and cilantro that rose from a steel crock of “twice-cooked chicken” was heady, even elegant, and the chicken, poached and then fried, had a nicely brittle, salty skin." [Bruni; NYT]
- At Braeburn "the 'smoked local brook trout' ($10) arrives accompanied by apple purée flavored with horseradish, and the lightly breaded skate ($24) fans out on a bed of Swiss chard awash in a Fuji apple jus" [Sietsema; VV]
- "Bay scallops as sweet as gumdrops anchor an abstract masterpiece featuring wisps of radish, shaved marcona almonds and the freshest Santa Barbara sea urchin—served raw and also folded with whipped cream to form a delicate sauce," at Paul Liebrandt's Corton [Cheshes; TONY]
- The steak tartare and the vegetables are two of the only good things at Center Cut [Richman; GQ]
- "One of the best dishes on the menu [at Mr. Jones] is the tori tatsuta age — Japanese for tempura-battered chicken wings with daikon sauce" [Restaurant Girl; NYDN]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 25, 2008 at 11:00 PM
"Pork chops, I'll miss you the most."
Photographs by Robyn Lee
Roasted Delights
5 Catherine Street, New York, NY 10038 (b/n Bowery and East Broadway; map); 212-966-6558
Service: Friendly and accommodating
Setting: Pristine storefront with a few tables in the back
Compare It To: Big Wong
Must-Haves: Roast pig, roast duck, roast pork, bacon and egg fried rice
Cost: $10 a person plus tax and tip for a ridiculous amount of food
Grade: A
[UPDATE: As of 6/4/2009, we learned that this establishment is no longer open.]
The serious eaters who read Nina Lalli's mouthwatering Chinese turkey post got just a glimpse of what awaits them at the wondrous and aptly named Roasted Delights. Roasted Delights has Chinese barbecue and much more, as I found out when I tried and failed to get a turkey without ordering it in advance six days before Thanksgiving. Roasted Delight's ridiculously friendly and engaging owner, Candy Huang, took my deposit for the bird we all ate with Lalli. She then implored me to try the roasted delights hanging in the window instead.
"You'll love them, Eddie [Candy had asked for my name for the receipt]. I promise."
She was right, of course. Between the turkey, the other roasted delights, and the dishes we ordered to accompany the turkey, I came to the inescapable conclusion that Roasted Delights is in fact one of Chinatown's great undiscovered eating spots.
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 25, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Just when you thought our city could not take another cupcake shop, along comes Butter Lane to prove us wrong. What this city lacks is not simply cupcakes, but rather quality cupcakes. There's no need to delve into the abundance of horrible cupcakes that flood Manhattan. If you've been wise enough to keep tabs, you'll know which to patronize and which to avoid.
Butter Lane thankfully falls into the "patronize" category.
This three-day old bakery in the East Village distinguishes itself from the likes of Billy's Bakery, Sugar Sweet Sunshine, and Magnolia Bakery for these main factors:
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- The new Tribeca location of The Palm Restaurant is emitting a smelly exhaust into the lobby of the apartment building it is attached to [Gothamist]
- One of the private New York supper clubs will attempt to recreate the Keller/Achatz $1500 dinner for $300 [Eater]
- Mario Batali will be giving away free Starbucks in Times Square the day after Thanksgiving [Food & Wine]
- New York City's soup kitchen is on track to serve the most meals in its 26 year history [Urbanite]
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 25, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Sure doesn't look like a burger. Unless your definition encompasses several slabs of pork belly—layered with skin, fat, meat, fat, meat, fat ad Lipitor—cooked to extreme unctuousness, dressed with pickled greens and ground peanuts then stuffed into a pillowy steamed bun that can barely contain its contents.
By now you've probably guessed that this porcine package comes from Flushing. This guo bao was lovingly prepared by the folks at Temple Snacks (aka Temple Snakes), in the Roosevelt Food Court. On my first few visits, I had no idea this bit of heaven on a bun existed. What can I say? When absolutely stuffed and facing a 42-item Chinese menu, I often resort to pointing at desserty looking items.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 25, 2008 at 1:00 PM
I have yet to come across anyone who has eaten at or heard of Famous Sichuan in Chinatown—hell, I only found it by searching for "Sichuan" in Menupages after getting an intense craving for tingling hot Chinese food. The restaurant was nearly empty when I ate there last Tuesday night, possibly because it was overshadowed by the bustling Joe's Shanghai across the street, or because it's only a few months old and has yet to gain much attention. I only tried three dishes so far, but I'm already a fan.
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Posted by Laren Spirer, November 25, 2008 at 11:30 AM
We caught up with entrepreneur Aricka Westbrook during the height of her busy season. The owner of Jive Turkey in Clinton Hill is churning out thousands of deep fried turkeys in fifteen varieties to ship all over the country for a Thanksgiving dinner not to be missed.
Name: Aricka Westbrook
Location: Clinton Hill, Brooklyn
Occupation: Owner of Jive Turkey restaurant and mail order company.
When was the first time you had a deep-fried turkey? I made my first turkey in my backyard in Brooklyn and had a party! It was devoured by friends and I knew I had a hit!
How many turkeys do you sell during the Thanksgiving season? What's the most popular variety? This year we are on track to sell a record 3,500 birds, the most popular is peach bourbon.
Any tips for someone who wants to attempt to deep-fry a turkey in New York City? It's illegal to do it with the standard backyard equipment in New York City, which I didn't know when I started, but because it is impossible to put out any possible fire that could start, I would avoid it.
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Pork belly at Kuma Inn. Photograph by The Wandering Eater
- If you order the "deep–fried pork belly lechon kawali with atchara" at Kuma Inn, there will be none left at the end of the meal [Wandering Eater]
- El Rancho Deli Grocery in the Bronx makes a good huitlacoche quesadilla [Fork in the Road]
- You can get Columbian rice meatballs at Master Express Deli in Queens [
Eating in Translation]
- You can find good Filipino food in Midtown at Bayan Cafe [Cheap Ass Food]
- At Alegretti, the Niçois ravioli, which come stuffed with braised oxtail and swiss chard, are "outstanding" [Website Name]
- The best turkey sandwiches in Midtown [Midtown Lunch]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 24, 2008 at 7:00 PM
"Believe it or not, the Times doesn’t have a test kitchen. Instead, recipes are developed and tested in each writer’s home. For me, this means my 11.5-square-foot kitchen." —Jill Santopietro, New York Times
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 24, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Our table was full with dishes like warm lamb's tongue and salumi, lamb brains, and lamb chops, sweetbreads galore, and goose liver ravioli. The grilled octopus was lovely, as was the pumpkin lune and hearty pappardelle with boar ragu. But for some very strange reason all I can seem to recall with clear sense is one dish: dessert. Figures, huh? The last dish of the night, Schiacciata Uva—a pillowy round of warmed brioche, with a delicate golden surface studded with the season's concord grapes. A few grapes had burst through the taut skin, staining the interior a luxuriously purple hue. On the side, there was vanilla gelato strewn with honey for a mellow sweetness. Simple and uncomplicated.
With four forks simultaneously diving into the dish, the brioche was devoured in seconds. We clearly should have ordered five. One for each of the four of us, and then a fifth to share.
Babbo
110 Waverly Place, New York, NY 10011 (b/n Avenue of the Americas and Washington Square West; map)
212-777-0303
babbonyc.com
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- Allen & Delancey will be hiring two chefs to replace Neil Ferguson [Eater]
- The Rickshaw Dumpling truck had a run in with a halal truck over the weekend [Feed Blog]
- The State Liquor Authority claim they were intimiated into renewing liquor licenses for 9 restaraunts owned by the Cipriani family [NYP]
- Ramen Setagaya has opened a second location on St. Marks [The-Feedbag]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 24, 2008 at 3:00 PM
All this turkey talk serves to remind me how much I love the turkey sandwich at Sophie's Cuban. The meat is ridiculously tender and the tomato gravy moistens it up quite nicely. I think this week, to make it more Thanksgiving-ey I'm gonna have them add some sweet plaintain chunks. Think of them as Latino cranberry sauce. Multiple locations; www.sophiescuban.com
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Posted by ninalalli, November 24, 2008 at 12:15 PM
Photographs by Robyn Lee
[UPDATE: As of 6/4/2009, we learned that this establishment is no longer open.]
Shortly before every holiday, my mother sends me and my sister an email with a subject line like "Last Year's Menu." The word document she attaches—like the long-perfected meal it describes—is always extremely familiar, and yet we proceed to fake caucus. (My sister, last Wednesday: "sounds amazing. do we really need soup??") The inevitable joke is that any alterations will result in my having a mental breakdown. And that's fair, because I will. I'm afraid of change.
So I won't suggest that my mother replace her roast turkey and sausage-studded cornbread stuffing with a Cantonese-style air-dried bird. My constitution is far too delicate. However, I am comfortable with the idea of whole new traditions. So, from now on, a feast at Roasted Delights just before Thanksgiving—or a dinner party featuring one of their turkeys ("faw gai"), which are roasted in the same manner as the ducks and chickens we're accustomed to seeing in Chinatown windows, will be in order.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 24, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Photograph from Bruce Foster on Flickr
Thanksgiving Dinner: Appropriately enough, the Union Square Greenmarket has poultry, potatoes, cranberries, and Brussels sprouts on offer for a last minute holiday stock-up [Lucy's Greenmarket Report]
Farm Fresh: Cheese, meat, and eggs are in supply in Union Square Greenmarket, which has moved back into its old, newly renovated location at the north end of the square [Greenmarket Report]
See and be Green: Daniel Humm, chef of Eleven Madison Park, uses the seasonal potatoes found while browsing the Union Square Greenmarket to inspire two suggestions for Thanksgiving sides: fingerlings roasted with figs, thyme, and whole garlic cloves, or mashed with a ricer and combined with a reduction of cream, brown butter, fleur de sel, and fresh nutmeg [New York Times]
Dressed to Advantage: Motorino's Chef-Owner Mathieu Palombino shares a recipe for roasting Union Square Greenmarket's most trendy gourd, Kabocha squash, which earlier this season was voted by the Wall Street Journal as one of fall's "it" foods [New York magazine]
Sweet Charity: As a result from a new partnership between New York City Coalition Against Hunger and City Greenmarkets, surplus food from the Carroll Gardens Greenmarket will be donated to the Hanson Place Campaign Against Hunger, a food pantry in Fort Greene [The New York City Hunger Blog]
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 24, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Eurotrip, a Central European-themed eatery on the south side of Park Slope, doesn't skimp on the good stuff. Frankly, there are times when I wish they would: I don't know that shrimp and grits need mascarpone and pancetta. (What are shrimp and grits doing on a Central European menu, anyway?) But the kitchen gets it exactly right with their controlled chaos of a breakfast sandwich.
It's hard to do the beast justice in a photo--what it really needs is a dissection chart. A grilled bratwurst, caramelized onions, sautéed portobello mushrooms, house-made sauerkraut, hot pickled peppers, and two eggs, over-easy, are all crammed into a potato-onion hero from Balthazar. The magic happens when you pierce the yolks, releasing a rich ooze that permeates every bite. In case this isn't enough food for you, the sandwich comes with a heaping side of fried potato wedges. Skip the ketchup and dip them in the house-bottled hot sauce, which, made from a mixture of hot and roasted sweet peppers, is more ajvar than Tabasco.
The sandwich is part of the $14 brunch prix fixe, which includes coffee and a cocktail.
Eurotrip
667 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (map)
718-285-9425
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Butter Lane cupcakes. Photograph by Rachel from Cupcakes Take the Cake
- The banana cupcake at the newly opened Butter Lane, is one of the best cupcakes in the city [Cupcakes Take the Cake]
- You can find majarete, a thick corn pudding, being sold on a street corner in Washington Heights [Eating in Translation]
- The potato tortelli with bolognese sauce at Caffe Falai "is fairly divine" [Lunch Studio]
- Masala Indian Restaurant is a great choice in Woodside [Shauna Eats Sunnyside]
- Where to find toffee bits on the UWS? [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 23, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Cheese Caves in Spain: For centuries, residents of Asturias have aged their wonderful cheese in caves. Look out for bats!
Missing Gordon Ramsay: The chef is absent at his new London restaurant, the York & Albany, but it has all hallmarks of a Ramsay project: professionalism, attention to detail and quirkiness. And they even do room service.
TV Ads Make Kids Fat: A new study shows a link between children’s weight gain and the frequency of fast food advertisements on TV.
Rosé with Turkey: Shinn’s dry 2007 merlot rosé, slightly chilled, is a fine Thanksgiving aperitif. As it warms up, its heft makes it a good match for turkey.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 21, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Editor's note: Every afternoon we like to post a short Sugar Rush to end your day. Think of it as the dessert to your daily blog reading. —Zach
"This hardcore French patisserie just opened up on 10th Ave. and 46th Street," Zach instant messaged me. "They have a macaron Christmas tree in the front window."
Hardcore French patisserie with a macaron tree? Zach, you said the magic words. He sent me this photo as proof of the macaron tree's existence and to make me wimper with macaron lust. Even though the macarons on the tree look a bit battered, I assume the fresh macarons are more photogenic. Unfortunately, their macarons are only available by special order at the moment, but there are plenty of other goodies in their patisserie. Check out this interior shot after the jump.
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- Eric Ripert thinks Mercadito makes the city's best fish taco [Grub Street]
- Rumor has it that Jean-Georges is eyeing the space that will soon be vacated by Robert DeNiro's Ago [Eater]
- A list of places to party the night before Thanksgiving [Metromix]
- Even Tavern on the Green will have a take out Thanksgiving meal available for purchase [Zagat Buzz]
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 21, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Photographs by Allison Hemler.
This past weekend at the Institute of Culinary Education, fifty wide-eyed Slow Food-ies gawked as Rudi Weid butchered a sustainably raised pig from Tamarack Hollow Farm in Vermont as part of Slow Food's "Nose to Tail" series. Part by part, with hands covered in blood, Rudi explained the different culinary uses of pig, in between jokes about lazy supermarket butchers and skirt steak, while responding to questions such as: "Why is the butt on the shoulder?"
As a novice pig cooker with very little knowledge of its usable body parts, I learned a wealth of information. Outside pigs are the best to get your hands on: they eat much more than commercially-raised pigs in sheds—and mainly corn. Fat builds up because of all this eating and keeps them warm. The pigs stay happy and therefore are much more delicious for you to eat. While they are also more expensive ($6/lb as compared to around $3/lb for commercially raised), I would rather eat tastier meat whose origins I'm familiar with and that I feel good about. This is one of the big messages Slow Food promotes in their events. The more knowledge you can compile on your food, the better decisions you'll make when you're grocery shopping, at your local butcher, and out to eat.
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Posted by Brian Halweil, November 21, 2008 at 2:00 PM
It's hard to believe that this time last year, I had already gotten the garlic planted and fig trees wrapped in burlap, and it wasn't half this cold. Thankfully, there has been one food-related constant. Restaurants, caterers and bakeries—from Breadzilla to the Golden Pear to the Hampton Coffee Company—have started rolling out Thanksgiving menus and holiday offerings.
Do we really have to wait all year for cornbread stuffing, sweet potato pie, pumpkin muffins, and pumpkin-spiced Jack o'latte?
For those whose palms start to sweat at the notion of impressing—or at least satisfying—friends and family around the turkey table, OSO at the Southampton Inn in Southampton is preparing an “abundant, endless, and delectable” buffet from 3 to 7 p.m. for $25 a person, and $15 for children.
It's an economical option that doesn't preclude families from “going back to someone’s house for an after dinner drink or catching the last quarter of the football game,” according to chef Bryan Naylor, who recounted the many steps involved in a homemade Thanksgiving—from pressing the table cloth to doing the dishes. “It costs less and it’s less stressful than doing it yourself.”
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Posted by BrianYarvin, November 21, 2008 at 12:15 PM
A few minutes before ten on a cold Tuesday morning, a crowd had gathered in front of Delicious Orchards in Colt´s Neck. When the door clicked open and they pushed their way inside, every last one of them mobbed the doughnut table. There were pies, breads and sacks of those doughnuts in the front of the store, and a small takeout section too. A cooler held duck breast, porterhouse pork chops, and a fine prewrapped cheese selection.
But what really brings people to Delicious Orchards is produce. Beginning with berries and melons, then the apples, citrus, potatoes, onions, pears, peppers, cabbages, dried fruits, and through to the beets, mushrooms, hot peppers, and tomatoes. This place is a produce adventure.
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 21, 2008 at 10:15 AM
Photograph by The Flooz
So many of the entrées at Montenegro Grille bear the descriptors francese, parmigiana and marsala, that it’s hard to tell whether it’s an Italian joint or one specializing in the cuisine of the Southeastern European nation bordered by Albania, Croatia and Serbia. Digging a little deeper reveals such Balkan favorites as cevapi and pljeskavica. I’m a big fan of those little skinless sausages as well as the ginormous lamb and beef patty known as the Bosna burger. But that’s not what brought me to Astoria. It was brains. Specifically veal brains. The last time I ate brains was at a taqueria and I was hung over. Actually, I didn’t even get to try them. Just as I was about to take a bite my friend started talking about Hannibal Lecter and I dropped the runny taco. So when I heard that Montenegro Grille had brains I jumped at the chance to earn another offal merit badge.
To steel myself for the task ahead I downed a glass of Lozova Rakija. Judging from the taste, I think that translates to “white lightning.” Actually it’s an immature grape brandy. Anyway, on to the brains.
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Roasted chicken from Rouge Tomate. Photograph by NYCNosh
- The chicken at Rouge Tomate "was every bit as good as any roast chicken we have eaten in a restaurant this year" [NYCNosh]
- At Belcourt "there's boudin blanc but it's house-made, quite distinctive, and presented as a "hot dog". [Pink Pig]
- Woo Chon is a good place to warm up with hot bowl of soup or stew [Blondie and Brownie]
- You can get Yari Squid from Japan at Sushi Yasuda [Food Mayhem]
- Seva has a $12 prix fixe dinner, and is a must try for everyone [Joey in Astoria]
- The Cod with Pork Sausage and Clams at Diner is amazing [Eat It Brooklyn]
- "There is a new Taiwanese pork chop house in town, and it is both delicious and cheap" [Fork in the Road]
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 20, 2008 at 7:00 PM
"Compressed" apple salad with bacon and broccoli rabe. Photograph by Tam
Under Pressure: An Evening with Thomas Keller
Saturday, November 22nd, 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
In honor of Keller's newest book, Keller and co-author Michael Ruhlmann will be discussing compression and sous vide techniques used in Keller's restaurants French Laundry and Per Se. Tickets are $125/person and include a personalized copy of the book, wine reception, and treats from Bouchon Bakery. Astor Center, 399 Lafayette Street; event website
International Great Beer Expo
Saturday, November 22
Session I: 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Session II: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.
Sample from over 100 local and international beers with free demos and entertainment. Tickets per session are $45 for drinkers; $10 for designated drivers. Tickets benefit the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation and the Terry Farrell Firefighters Fund. Nassau Veterans Memorial Coliseum, 1255 Hempstead Turnpike, Uniondale NY; event website
Turkey Carving and Wine Tasting
Saturday, November 22, 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Learn how to carve a turkey and pair it with purple wines. Tickets are $45/person. New York Wine Company, 21 Warren Street (nr. Church Street); 212-812-3999; event website
11th Annual International Pickle Festival
Sunday, November 23, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Come celebrate the 11th year of PickleFest with food, contests, music, dancing, and prizes.
Community Center, Route 32 South, Rosendale NY; event website
Sweet Melissa Holiday Baking Class
Sunday, November 23, 1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Melissa Murphy of Sweet Melissa Patisserie will be leading a tasting, demo, and hands-on class in holiday baking to promote her newest book. Learn how to make pear cranberry pie with gingersnap crumble, as well as pie dough. Free; reservations not necessary. Dweck Center at the Brooklyn Public Library, 10 Grand Army Plaza, Brooklyn NY; via Only the Blog Knows Brooklyn
Fondue Takedown
Sunday, November 23rd, 5:00 p.m.
Bear witness to the most important fondue contest in NYC! Enter your favorite cheese fondue recipe for a $100 cash prize, or come hungry for all-you-can-possibly-stomach fondue. Tickets for attendees are $10/person; free for entrants. Union Pool, 484 Union Avenue, Williamsburg Brooklyn; e-mail Matt Timms at mtimms7@hotmail.com for details; event website
Vino e Cucina
Monday, November 24, 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Stroll the ballroom at Gotham Hall while tasting some of Sardinia's finest cuisine and wine. Talk to chefs as they prepare delicacies, and participate in raffles awarding products, cooking classes, and fine dining. Tickets are $95/person; proceeds go toward scholarships for American students to pursue culinary studies in Italy. Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway (nr. 36th Street); 646-624-2885, extension 107; event website
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 20, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photograph by roboppy
When Alaina brought in pumpkin pie this morning, my lame uncaffeinated reaction was: oh, another pie. Yeah, NOT just another pie.
The filling is packed with pumpkin power, and so soft, it's almost a pudding texture. (But still maintains its pie posture.) The crust has a deep graham cracker flavor that almost tastes healthy. Not really healthy, but in a bran-fiber cereal mixed with a lot of melted butter kind of way. There's plenty of pumpkin pies floating around this city right now, but this one is a winner.
Birdbath Neighborhood Green Bakery
223 First Avenue (near 14th Street; map)
646-722-6565
buildagreenbakery.com
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- Gael Greene is out at New York Magazine [
Eater]
- No restaurants in New York City want to buy a 2 pound white truffle [Gothamist]
- Seymour Burton will return as Butcher Bay, minus the burger [The Feedbag]
- Kyotofu To Go opens on Monday in Chelsea [Grub Street]
- Zagat Guides are now available as an iphone application [Zagat Buzz]
- Jive Turkey in Fort Greene is the best place to get a deep fried turkey, if you don't mind waiting on line [Brooklyn Paper]
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Posted by Barbara Hanson, November 20, 2008 at 3:30 PM
When I walked into the tiny shop in Astoria that is the Adriatic Meat Market, there was a lot of good-natured smiling from the men hanging out in the store’s one aisle, as they chatted with the butcher in a language unfamiliar to me. I felt like a stranger in a strange land; there were virtually no products with English labels. Unfortunately, I am not at my best in these circumstances, usually feeling like an intruder who should inconspicuously back out the door, probably knocking over a can or two on the way. However, there is also no way to render oneself inconspicuous in a store the size of the average Manhattan apartment living room.
I was there representing Serious Eats: New York, so there was no turning back. I introduced myself to the butcher, Zoran, who frowned slightly, and said, “No good. I used to buy meat from them, but no more. No good.”
I explained that, as far as I knew, no one at Serious Eats sold meat, either good or bad, and that I was there to buy some cevapcici (pronounced “chivappy”), which I would later write about on the Serious Eats site. I don’t know how much got across, but Zoran was all affability and patience. I was told that the cevapcici come eighteen to a container, and are sold fresh or frozen. When I requested fresh, Zoran beamed his approval and explained that he had just made them half an hour ago.
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 20, 2008 at 12:00 PM
“Eating is fun, happy Every day!!” That statement rings so true that I’d get the Chinese characters tattooed down my arm, if only that is what the sign said. Zi bu yang rou hui mian means something to the effect of "delicious lamb braised soup noodle." And that’s also a statement that rings true. This handwritten sign is an ad for the lamb noodle soup place in the Golden Shopping Mall. When I saw it I almost made off with it since it was situated near some trash cans. Instead, I decided to just order a bowl.
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Posted by Michele Humes, November 20, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Before there was Sudafed, there was Sichuan hot pot. Central China's answer to fondue, a steaming pot of fiery broth, bobbing with dried chilis and peppercorns is a powerful decongestant. I guess I wasn't the only person feeling the effects of the sudden temperature drop, because, the other night, hot pot stronghold Grand Sichuan in Chinatown was hoppin'.
Here's how it works:
1. Choose a broth (plain chicken stock, crimson chili soup, or a yin-yang of both.) A camping stove keeps the pot at a constant simmer.
2. Select your raw ingredients from an extensive list of meats, veggies, dumplings and noodles, and pick one or more dipping sauces.
3. Your chopsticks double as cooking implements, as you dip raw meat into the soup for quick poaching; longer-cooking items, like fishballs and wontons, are retrieved with a little mesh basket.
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Mitzy's Macaron. Photograph by Robyn Lee
- You'll be able to get Mitzy's Macarons at the Brooklyn Flea this weekend [Girl Who Ate Everything]
- "The best part about the fried chicken at BBQ chicken is that the outter portion is really crunchy" [Food in Mouth]
- The heaters are not up at the outdoor Shake Shack yet, but their Hot Chocolate should do the trick [Blondie and Brownie]
- At Cafe Select the elbow pasta with ground beef in brown sauce comes with applesauce on the side, "an unusual combination I couldn’t stop eating" [Writing With My Mouth Full]
- You can get Tim Tams right now at the Tuck Shop [NYC Food Guy]
- Best Korean BBQ in New York City [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 19, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Every Wednesday we'll be posting delicious educational opportunities in the New York for the approaching weekend and the following week. All classes listed still have openings, but if you hear otherwise, please let us know. We're back with our listings after a two-week vacation. Because of the Thanksgiving holiday, there are considerably less classes held next week. Be sure to check back next Wednesday for classes after Thanksgiving to prepare you for the holidays.
'Gluten Freedom: Reclaiming Our Daily Bread' at the Natural Gourmet
Friday, November 21, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., $185 + $10 for materials
Rebecca Reilly leads a course on gluten-free breads, guaranteeing flavorful results and familiar textures. Not only will you make classic breads such as French baguettes, English muffins, bagels, pizza, and all-purpose sandwich bread, you'll find out how to make them extra delicious with various spreads and cheeses.
Natural Gourmet Institute, 48 West 21st Street (at Sixth Avenue), 2nd Floor, Manhattan; 212-645-5170; naturalgourmetschool.com for info and registration
'Classic Croissants' at ICC
Saturday, November 22, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., $195
Learn how to build layers upon layers of dough to make flaky, buttery, and crispy croissants, the quintessential French pastry. I can already smell them coming out of the oven.
International Culinary Center, 462 Broadway (at Grand Street), Manhattan; 888-324-CHEF; internationalculinarycenter.com for info and registration
'Michael Colameco Cooking 101: Chicken' at ICC
Saturday, November 22, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., $395
Separate an entire chicken and prepare with simple techniques to create an elegant meal; Chef Colameco, a down-to-earth chef who's been in the business for 35 years, will pair the meal with sides. Class includes a family style meal in the last hour.
International Culinary Center, 462 Broadway (at Grand Street), Manhattan; 888-324-CHEF; internationalculinarycenter.com for info and registration
'Street Food From Japan' at ICE
Saturday, November 22, 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., $105
If you're from New York, you're probably obsessed with (or at least aware of) street food. Find out how Japan does small savory snacks with Chef Mamie Nishide by cooking up Okonimiyaki (fried batter cake with savory toppings), Yakiudon (fried udon noodle), Onigiri (handmade rice balls), and more.
The Institute of Culinary Education, 50 West 23rd Street (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan; 800-522-4610; web.iceculinary.com for more info, call 212-847-0770 to register
More classes—and free tastings and workshops—after the jump.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 19, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photograph by Front Studio
"Overly rich and decadent" are the words the Lunch with Front Studio blog used to describe this mudslide cookie from the newish upper West Side location of Jacques Torres Chocolate. That's not a bad thing, right? It's cold out too, so it would probably go great with a cup of their famous hot chocolate. Ok, that might be over the top.
Jacques Torres Chocolate
285 Amsterdam Avenue, New York, New York 10023 (at 73rd Street; map)
212-787-3256
mrchocolate.com/
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- Andy Yang thinks Bruni got it all wrong in his review of Kurve... [Grub Street]
- ... and Alain Ducasse says everybody got it wrong in their reviews of Benoit [Restaurant Girl]
- Bouchon Bakery is taking orders for all sorts of Thanksgiving treats [Zagat Buzz]
- It appears as if Harlem may have their own "Restaurant Row" [AMNY]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 19, 2008 at 5:15 PM
On tonight's Top Chef, the aspiring top toques have to cook hot dogs. The show sprung a surprise on the contestants by bringing in one of New York's premiere hot dog cart purveyors, Angelina D'Angelo, to show them how it's done.
I'm proud to see Angelina, because I wrote about her in my New York Times hot dog round-up in 2005. I love the idea of Angelina appearing on the show, but I have no clue why they chose Donatella Arpaia as the guest judge. Donatella's a really good restaurateur whom I know reasonably well, but my guess is she knows squat about hot dogs.
If you want to try one of Angelina D'Angelo's hot dogs head to Dominick's on Woodhaven Boulevard and 65th Road in Rego Park, Queens (map). She's usually there on weekdays after 11 a.m.
A preview of the episode, after the jump.
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 19, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Merit Farms might just be one of the strangest eateries in Jackson Heights. Despite the name it’s not a farm-to-table type place, though I’ll bet it was once an old-school greengrocer. For years I passed by the storefront display of greasy fried chicken and other scary looking food products always wondering who would eat in such a place. As you can see from the bizarre mishmash of signage, these days the answer to that question is lots of Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Indian, Tibetan, Nepali and Bhutanese people. Think of it as a smaller, South Asian version of Flushing's regional Chinese food courts.
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Posted by Nick Solares, November 19, 2008 at 1:00 PM
... Or just some blown bulbs?
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 19, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Gravy Makes Thanksgiving: Great gravy will elevate everything else on the table.
Turkey Day Sides: Some cooks plan to keep it simple, while others look to trick out their Thanksgiving meal with challenges and luxury.
Olivier Roellinger Turns in His Michelin Stars: Making him the fourth three-Michelin star chef in France to renounce his stars in recent years. He will close his Brittany landmark, Maisons de Bricourt, and serve food in a less formal setting.
Poultry Project: Good Shepherd Turkey Ranch in Lindsborg, Kansas is dedicated to preserving the genetic lines of "perfect" poultry.
Turkey Cruelty Discovered: PETA released undercover videos taken at the nation’s premier poultry-breeding operation, showing turkeys being smashed into loading cages like basketballs, stomped to death, and punched by workers.
Wine and the Violin: David Chan, a concertmaster of the Metropolitan Opera Orchestra, sees a bond between his two passions: music and wine.
12-Year-Old Food Critic: An adventurous young foodie tries tripe and doesn't hate it.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 19, 2008 at 10:30 AM
We have two tickets to a Thomas Keller event at the Astor Center this Saturday at 6:30 p.m., celebrating his new book Under Pressure. Keller will join his friend and co-author Michael Ruhlman, along with Per Se chef de cuisine Jonathan Benno, to chat about the principles of sous-vide (the slow cooking in plastic bags below the boiling point).
The lucky winners will also get an autographed copy of the sous-vide book. To win, just tell us your favorite sous-vide dish and if you've never had one, something tasty Mom used to throw in a plastic bag. We'll pick two winners at random and have the tickets waiting at the door. Comments will close at Noon EST on Friday. Standard Serious Eats contest rules apply.
Comments are Closed.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 19, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Dumpling tofu stew from BCD Tofu House. Photograph by Robyn Lee
- At BCD Tofu House "The hot seafood tofu soup isn’t just spicy, it’s brought to the table bubbling at a furious pace." [Dining Briefs; NYT]
- At Philippu, a Filipino restaurant in Queens, "you can get an unusual squid adobo boasting a dense silken gravy with a purplish hue, but the lighter and more vinegary chicken adobo is far more scrumptious" [Sietsema; VV]
- Considering how good Rhong Tiam is, it's not surprising that the curries at Kurve are "rich with coconut milk, lively with kaffir lime and lemon grass [and] are sometimes excellent." [Bruni; NYT]
- At Corton get the "foie gras torchon, which Liebrandt encases in a beet gelée (a technique he used at his last restaurant, Gilt), as well as the soft, candied chunks of sweetbreads, served with carrots, brown butter tuiles, and a single perfectly cooked egg." [Platt; NYM]
- At Secession "house-made terrines and pates give Bar Boulud a run for its money" [Cuozzo; NYP]
- "The grilled calamari, the eggplant parmigiana and the crispy, beer-battered sweetbreads with sliced pear" are the can't miss dishes at Cipolla Rossa [Restaurant Girl; NYDN]
- Desserts are the best part of a meal at Secession where "Bouley’s pastry team works wonders with ice cream" [Cheshes; TONY]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 18, 2008 at 11:00 PM
"All I ask is that you name the restaurant something that's a little easier to pronounce and spell"
Photographs by Robyn Lee
Txikito
240 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (b/n 25th and 24th streets; map); 212-242-4730
Service: Surprisingly knowledgeable and friendly
Setting: A felicitously lit and simply furnished comfy space
Compare It To: Tia Pol, El Quinto Pino
Must-Haves: Albondigas, patatas mentaiko, bocata, arraultza
Price: $25 to $50 a person, depending on how many plates and how much wine you order
Grade: A-
Alex Raij and her husband, Eder Montero, introduced New Yorkers to the joys of seriously delicious, authentic yet contemporary Spanish food, first at Tia Pol and then at El Quinto Pino. When for undisclosed reasons they left those kitchens, serious eaters mourned, and rightfully so. Now they're back with Txikito (pronounced chic-kee-toe), which switches their focus to the mostly undiscovered (at least to New Yorkers) food of the Basque country, cocina Vasca. In fact, Txikito is a particularly gutsy restaurant in that not one dish made the trip from their former restaurants. This restaurant is a tribute to their restless culinary creativity, passion, and fierce dedication to Spanish food that is neither museumlike or foam-oriented.
With Txikito, Raij and Montero show they are masters of using unusual (at least in this country) Spanish ingredients. If you're like me, you'll find yourself asking your server to explain many terms on the menu. One ingredient you will immediately recognize is bread. Bread in many forms is used in many, many dishes, and it's used rather well.
There are mostly hot (beroak) and cold (hotzak) small plates and sandwiches of various sizes on the menu, along with a handful of large hot dishes. What did we eat?
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The New York Times Dining section staff will be answering Thanksgiving-related questions on Thursday. But you can submit your query now.
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 18, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Famous for their pizza bianca and loved for their sandwiches and insanely delicious square cuts of pizza (topped with cauliflower, zucchini, or mushrooms), the pastries at this Hell's Kitchen bakery are often overlooked and surely deserve more recognition. Since Sullivan Street Bakery ranks high on my personal list of favorite bakeries in the city, I've made it a point to, over time, taste each and every single one of the sweets they offer—diabetes be damned.
Some days I favor one over another—be it warm bomboloni or a round of tortino di cioccolato with crunchy bread crumb bits speckled in the batter. My current affair is with a caramelized wedge of banana bread pudding. I have an especially soft spot in my heart for puddings which are generous and easy in the mouth, and I love Bananas for the same reason. At Sullivan Street Bakery, the two are combined with a flaky, butter-rich crust. The bread pudding mix is immensely moist, lightly spiced, and hovers an enviable line between custard and cake. To top it off, the bananas have been soaked in sambuca and coffee and deeply caramelized—dancing on the verge of bitterness, but falling just to the right side of sweet. Rustic comfort at its best. This warmed cut of pudding, accompanied by coffee, would make for a very fine start to the day.
Sullivan Street Bakery
533 W 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 (b/n 10th and 11th; map)
212-265-5580
sullivanstreetbakery.com
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- Calexico Cart and the Treats Truck have partnered to create a joint catering venture for holidays parties and events [Eater]
- Doughnut Plant has introduced a new "crème brûlée" doughnut (although we didn't see it when we were there this morning) [Diner's Journal]
- There is a free pizza happy hour at the newly opened gluten free Opus on the Upper East Side [Grub Street]
- David Burke's "Fishtail" is set to open in December [Strong Buzz]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 18, 2008 at 3:05 PM
As a testament to my lack of a social life, I had no idea that half of Williamsburg went out drinking on Friday nights until I found myself roaming around the area in the wee hours of the morning—stepping around bar-goers in the process. I was headed towards Bonjin, a roving Williamsburg Japanese restaurant concept that just found a new home inside the Korean restaurant Dokebi. It only operates on Friday nights from midnight to 4 a.m. (after Dokebi closes), and the food clearly caters to the late-night drinking crowd. So what was I, a non-drinker, doing there? To get Japanese comfort food—specifically ramen.
But there's more to Bonjin than ramen. The menu for last Friday night also featured zousui (rice porridge), kakuni (stewed pork belly), edamame, and carrot salad. My friend and I started with the carrot salad ($3) made of long, thin strands of raw carrot dressed with Japanese sea salt, olive oil, white wine vinegar, and a bit of garlic and pepper. Simple and surprisingly delicious, this dish quickly went into our bellies.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 18, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Thanksgiving dinner is at my place this year; we've got a 600 square foot apartment, 8 chairs, and 10 people coming over. Could we fit Jamie Oliver and camera crew? I think so! (What can I say, I'm a huge fan.) Ok, so I'm probably out of the running but if you are having Thanksgiving in New York City, and can fit one more (plus a camera crew), Jamie Oliver wants to crash your dinner. "For more information, please contact dinnerwithjamie@freshone.tv putting ‘Thanksgiving’ in the subject line." [via Eater]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 18, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Photographs by Zach Brooks
I know SE:NY's Zach Brooks loves Chinese buffets, so I wondered why he'd never told me about the buffet mentioned in the New York Times this weekend, East Buffet and Restaurant in Flushing, which includes both Peking duck and suckling pig. I had to investigate. Why? Look at these prices:
Weekday lunch: $7.50
Weekday dinner: $14
Weekend lunch: $9
Weekend dinner: $15.50
Well, it turns out that even Chinese buffet lover Mr. Brooks had tried East and found it wanting. "We tried it a couple of months ago and thought it was pretty mediocre." Clinton Street Baking Company chef-owner Neil Kleinberg came to visit SE World HQ and said, "Hey, did you see that cheap all-you-can-eat Peking duck place in the Times? I spent 90 minutes driving out there yesterday, first to Brooklyn to pick up my son, then to Flushing, and man, were we disappointed. The Peking duck was so fatty."
When I mentioned the idea of cheap Peking duck preparations, Serious Eats' Kathy Chan suggested the $1.75 Peking duck window in Flushing. She even sent me a photo.
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Blue Ribbon Sushi. Photograph by Gastrodamus
- The baked eggs is reason alone to go for brunch at the Brown Cafe on the Lower East Side [Ubereater]
- At Dirt Candy, "the stone ground grits with pickled shitake mushrooms and a tempura poached egg" is an amazing dish [Eat to Blog]
- If you want to eat a non-Thanksgiving Thanksgiving dinner out, Chinese food is your best bet [SE:NY Talk]
- The vegetarian couscous with harissa sauce is one of the best dishes at Cafe Lafayette in Fort Greene [Eat It Brooklyn]
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 17, 2008 at 6:00 PM
At the 11th Annual Chocolate Show New York two weekends ago, I received a box of truffles from Charles of Charles Chocolates. His headquarters are based in California, but you can find them here in New York City at Whole Foods. The Classic Collection Assortment featured above bears twenty truffles—two each of ten flavors. I enjoyed some more than others, but there is not a single miss.
The Bittersweet Peanut Butterfly is a personal favorite, closely followed by the Passion Fruit Heart—fresh lilikoi ganache enclosed within a 65% chocolate heart. Fleur de Sel appears in two forms: silky plain in the first, and coupled with bittersweet chocolate in the second. Each is locked within a crisp, thin dark shell that easily gives way upon the heat of the mouth. For those fond of citrus, Blood Orange and Meyer Lemon creations cater to fruity whims with orange/lemon marmalade ganache in bittersweet and milk chocolate. I sampled my way through the entire Chocolate Show and can confidently conclude that these chocolates ranked among the best at the event, for both taste and presentation. Not included in this particular boxed truffle set, but equally loved were aromatic squares of Jasmine Tea chocolates and Caramel Almond Sticks hinting just a touch of Fleur de Sel. Available at Whole Foods or online at charleschocolates.com
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- John Dory will open a week from today, and is now taking reservations [Eater]
- The chef of One if by Land, Two if By Sea is taking over at Le Cirque [Diner's Journal]
- Despite a drop in the price of flour, pizza and bagel prices are still on the rise [Gothamist]
- Earlier this month Atomic Wings opened their first Brooklyn location in Park Slope [Brooklyn Paper]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 17, 2008 at 1:30 PM
newyorker.com
This week's New Yorker is the special food issue.
Sheep Soup and Wallaby: A raw, artistic audio slide show where 12 international photojournalists share tales of eating on the job. In Kyrgyzstan, Rena Effendi had her first bowl of sheep soup, which was boiled for four hours in what resembled a witch's cauldron.
Sexiest Texas Barbecue Alive: Calvin Trillin relates grilled meat to People cover stories: "The equivalent of Matt Damon and George Clooney and Brad Pitt would be establishments like Kreuz Market and Smitty's Market, in Lockhart; City Market, in Luling; and Louie Mueller Barbecue, in Taylor."
Beyond Bud Light: Burkhard Bilger closely follows the rise of extreme beer in America. Our drinking behavior follows that of a sin curve--at first willing to taste strong beers, our interest peaked, then dropped, but now we're slowly rising again. Listen to this podcast with Bilger, taped at the Beer Table in Brooklyn.
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Posted by Allison Hemler, November 17, 2008 at 12:30 PM
Alan Richman wants you to know his thoughts on writing and how they extend to all kinds of journalism, not just in the food industry. He doesn't want writing to be exhausting, hates throw away "quick bite" type entries, knows when he's reading an article written by a woman, and has plenty of anecdotes to share about his wine critic ex-wife. One half hour with him, and you know all this. Imagine six sessions in The Craft of Food Writing at the French Culinary Institute—fifteen hours—you're practically old college buddies.
Richman leads this six week class—which starts up again in March (check the website closer to the end of 2008)—complete with visits from other New York media insiders. The evening I stopped by, we were joined by Gabriella Gershenson of Time Out New York, who gave her spin on pitching to editors.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 17, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Cauliflower. Photo by clayirving.
See the White: Cauliflower, potatoes, and lard are on offer at the Union Square Greenmarket [Lucy's Greenmarket Report]
Flower Power: Not Eating Out in New York advises how to turn the Union Square Greenmarket's orange cauliflower and purple potatoes into a cauliflower casserole [Not Eating Out in New York]
Praise the Lard: Use the Union Square Greenmarket's leaf lard from humanely-raised pigs for your pie crusts this season [The Sweaty Guinea Pig]
Good Marketing: The New York Observer named Market Table restaurant of the weekend. The restaurant ranks number seven on its list of the top ten Greenmarket restaurants in New York [The New York Observer]
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 17, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Photograph by Nick Solares
Ed Levine reviewed Momofuku Bakery and Milk Bar last Friday, but after the bakery's busy opening weekend, many food bloggers have also posted their photos and thoughts. Here are some of our favorite reviews:
Blondie and Brownie: Out of Blondie's stash of cookies and pies, favorites include the Compost Cookie and the Crack Pie.
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New York's WNYC radio is talking to Michael Pollan right now about ag issues that President-elect Barack Obama should be aware of in taking office. There's an online petition to encourage Obama to choose Pollan as agriculture secretary. You can listen online now as it airs or later, when the show's audio is eventually archived at that same link.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 17, 2008 at 10:00 AM
People move to New York City in their 20s hoping to play some part in the bright lights of the big city—the premieres, the openings, the parade of events. I was born here, however, and so it seemed like my big city invitation was lost in the mail for 25 years, until finally, after a quarter of a century lived and many millennia of words written, I was invited to a book party, a party for the release of Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic by David Waltuck and Andrew Friedman, the cookbook scion of the Tribeca French classic restaurant Chanterelle.
By way of greeting, I was presented with Chanterelle's perennial seafood sausage, which has been on the menu since the restaurant’s opening in 1979. It was to be followed over the course of the evening, successively, by a duck spring roll with hoisin, a fried oyster perched on a relish of cucumber and crowned with a dollop of curried mayonnaise, hamachi tartare bound in sushi seaweed, and a cocoa-coated marble of chocolate truffle. I was struck at first with the impression that nothing was as it seemed it would be: Not only was I washing down Chinese spring rolls with French Champagne, but for a restaurant that has five dollar signs next to its name on MenuPages.com, I was tasting a lot of what is often left off the menu at five-dollar-sign establishments: hospitality.
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Kalbi bones at So Moon Nan Jip. Photograph by ext212
- Palidsades Park is like the Koreatown of New Jersey, and So Moon Nan Jip is better than any of the places in Manhattan [Writing With My Mouth Full]
- The noodles are good at Ippudo, but "the broth's the thing" [Word of Mouth]
- Don't worry guys, you are allowed to order the "ladies set" at Katsuhama [Girl Who Ate Everything]
- Aside from a few temperature issues, the pizzas at Motorino are good [A Passion For Food]
- You can get homemade apple strudel, plus sweet and spicy Slovak mustards from Slovak-Czech Varieties in Queens [Eating in Translation]
- Miso Cod is the thing to order from Kasadela [Lifestyle of Yuppie]
- Where is the best Dim Sum in Manhattan? [SE:NY]
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 16, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Coq au Vin in Bombay: An expat son prepares a multicourse French meal for his parents to give them a taste of his new world. Culinary disaster ensues.
Skip the Marshmallows: The sweet potato is a lovely veggie. Mark Bittman offers some alternatives to the traditional sugary, insipid coating.
The Future of Fish: We have overfished so much that soon, most of the fish we’ll be eating will be farmed. Industrial fish farming wreaks havoc on the land and makes for fish that taste less than wonderful.
Spam: These days, consumers are rediscovering relatively cheap foods, Spam among them.
Leftover Mashed Potatoes: Spanish-influenced potato croquettes with smoked paprika and piquillo peppers are a great alternative to the trash can.
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 15, 2008 at 10:00 PM
I know; the first ingredient in this recipe is filet mignon, which may sound like punishment for your pocket. But think of it this way: steak tartare is something most of us ONLY eat at restaurants. This dish is an opportunity to turn yourself into a real restaurant chef, as you make two things you have probably never made at home before: mayonnaise, and steak tartare. If your pantry is stocked like a well equipped arsenal, this recipe should be a cinch, without much added expense or time. Plus, there is no cooking. If the filet mignon is prohibitive, ask your butcher for what he recommends—just be sure to tell him you’re eating it raw!
At Balthazar, the small Steak Tartare sells for $15, the large for $21, plus tax and tip, per order. This recipe serves 6-8. Even with the filet, that’s stretching a buck. Plus, you get to feel like you’re in Paris for the night without paying Air France the price of thirty large Balthazar Steak Tartares.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 14, 2008 at 6:00 PM
A Mast Brothers chocolate bar with almonds and sea salt.
While upending the shelves at Stone Barns for new treasure, I stumbled across a Mast Brothers chocolate bar flecked with almonds. And sea salt! I have an underdeveloped sweet-tooth but an overdeveloped salt-tooth, so this discovery thrilled me to the core. (What an ideal snack for a lazy Friday autumn-birthday afternoon!)
As revealed in our prior interview with the Mast brothers, the brothers pride themselves on their handmade chocolates, with beans sourced from farms throughout the southern latitudes. The brothers clean, sort, roast, and refine the cacao beans in small batches themselves. They also develop the flavor profiles, making the bars from a tiny kitchen in Brooklyn. Finally, they hand-wrap and Scotch-tape the pretty bars shut. The whole operation is charmingly understated. And the clean geometries of their patterned papers hold exquisite appeal.
But the taste? What about the taste? The shingles of salt are crisp and fun, but the almonds are more decorative than delicious.
Moreover, the chocolate is wooden in flavor and reveals little when warmed on the tongue. Like the mouth-drying I feel when eating Scharffen Berger, the sensation is slightly astringent. The Mast Brothers' chocolate is a more Germanic take; it doesn't bloom nor linger in the mouth the way a French or Belgian indulgence might.
The bar would make a good gift for a friend with aesthetic leanings and will please those who prefer straightforward flavors. While I didn't find it especially tasty, it is tasteful. It is, appreciably, a smart-looking bar.
Mast Brothers Chocolate
mastbrotherschocolate.com
Available at the following locations:
Marlow & Sons; 81 Broadway, Brooklyn NY 11211
Spuyten Duyvil Grocery; 218 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211
Stone Barns; 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills NY 10591
Urban Rustic; 236 North 12th Street, Brooklyn NY 11211
Artists & Fleas; 129 N 6th St, Brooklyn NY 11211
Rubiner's Cheesemongers; 264 Main Road, Great Barrington MA 01230
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- Willis Loughhead will be the chef at Govind Armstrong's new New York outpost of Table 8 [Eater]
- If you take a cab to the new Village Pourhouse on the Upper West Side, they will give you a tab equal to the amount of the fare [The Feedbag]
- Del Frisco's becomes the latest restaurant to be sued by their employees [Midtown Lunch]
- There will be a Throwdown with Bobby Flay at Chow Gourmet in Staten Island [Life Vicarious]
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Posted by Brian Halweil, November 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Admittedly, this post is only partly related to East End Eats, my weekly column. (Stay tuned for next week's piece about a Southampton restaurant offering a buffet style Thanksgiving for the home cook for whom the holidays are simply too stressful.) But I'm still reeling from a fun harvest festival last night at Chelsea Market, to celebrate the expansion of Cleaver Co.'s Green Table, the restaurant's mesmerizing Laurie Rhodes exhibit of mist-covered livestock in Washington County (and the release of the latest issue of Edible Manhattan.
In addition to New York foodie destinations like Ninth Street Espresso (featuring not just good coffee but latte art mastery), Buon Italia, Chelsea Thai, and Chelsea Market Baskets (who knew there were so many good British brands of juice and natural sodas?). There was East End wine (of course) from Wolffer Estate and four seasonal suds from Kelso of Brooklyn. The brewmaster, Kelly, is the sort of knowledge and jovial guy who you'd think would be producing a good chunk of the beer drunk in New York. Green Table had spicy radishes, an intriguing popcorn and warming tomato and beef chili. And it also featured Vere, the very pure dark chocolate brand made with impeccably sourced cocoa. Look for an illustrated story on Vere in the next issue of Edible Manhattan.
Chelsea Market
75 9th Avenue, New York NY 10011 (nr. 15th Street; map)
chelseamarket.com
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Posted by BrianYarvin, November 14, 2008 at 12:15 PM
Cuisines have a way of redefining themselves when they're transplanted. Local factors make a difference. Can a Portuguese place that sits next to a Chinese takeout retain all its original Portuguese-ness? This is the question I ask myself when I'm visiting one of central New Jersey's more unique budget restaurant types, the Churrasqueira.
These places feature down-to-earth Portuguese cooking in an environment that's just a bit nicer than their nearest competitor; the Chinese takeout. Churrasquerias offer something that most Chinese takeouts don't though; a modest attempt at eat-in civility, drinks served in real glasses, china plates, nice placemats, and maybe even some fancy water from Portugal.
Most of the business is takeout though (and many offer free delivery) and on a recent night, my local, the Luso BBQ in Colonia, offered a whole barbecue chicken, fries and rice, for ten bucks. I ordered one, took it home, and after photographing it for this blog, went about the task of describing it. Over a bed of fries and mildly seasoned rice, was a whole chicken, hacked apart. Clearly marinated and then grilled, it had a crisp skin and meat that was tender from its treatment. The meat here bears no resemblance to American, Chinese, or any other barbecue. Its combination of marinating and grilling makes it uniquely Portuguese.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 14, 2008 at 10:45 AM
Grub Street has posted this week's "New York Diet" column, and the featured eater is Serious Eats overlord Ed Levine. If you have ever wanted to hear about every single piece of food Ed ate in a single week, here is your chance.
Regular Serious Eats New York readers (or followers of Ed's diet posts) will find much of what Ed listed as very familiar—like his trip to the newly opened Salumeria Rosi, a great meal at West Branch, pizza bianca from Grandaisy, the sidewalk from Song Kran, and Sal & Carmine's followed by Zabar's frozen yogurt.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 14, 2008 at 9:30 AM
Photographs by Robyn Lee
What Is Crack Pie?
It contains no crack—no, really—just butter, heavy cream, brown sugar, sugar, and a little corn flour. Endorsed by Anderson Cooper, among others.
"When I eat this (the salty pistachio soft serve) I feel like I'm cheating on my wife."--SE: NY's Zach Brooks, considering how much trouble he was going to be in when his wife found out he went to the Momofuku Bakery friends and family soft opening without her.
I've always felt that sweets have been the weakest part of David Chang's game. Combine that with his premature iconic chef status, and I have to say a part of me wanted and expected to be disappointed by what he and pastry chef Christina Tosi would be serving at Momofuku Bakery & Milk Bar, which opens tomorrow (Saturday) morning. It turned out that I was suffering from premature baked goods disappointment (could we call that premature bakulation? probably not.) Tosi, in concert with Chang, really delivers the (baked) goods at Milk Bar.
The sandwiches and savory breads are typical deeply delicious Changian creations, full of pork and fat and butter and cheese. The happy surprises here lie in the (mostly) perfectly-balanced-between-salty-and-sweet baked goods and ice cream. Salt has become a cliched ingredient in hipster desserts these days, but rarely is it used to better effect than it is here. You can see shots of the interior and a copy of the menu on Eater, but you know we prefer to show you the food porn.
First the savory items:
The Volcano: Imagine the most delicious knish ever, filled with potato gratin, gruyere cheese, and Benton's bacon. 'Nuff said.
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Irving Mill's rib-eye for two. Photograph by Nick Solares
- "The roasted Four Story Hills rib-eye for two, a staple at Resto, has been re-enlisted" at Irving Mill [Beef Aficionado]
- The shrimp bún at Bún has gotten more traditional [Lunch Studio]
- The pizza bianca at Sullivan Street Bakery is "one of the best light bites in the city" [Eating in Translation]
- Tamarind is hit or miss, but all in all a good place for a business lunch [Food Mayhem]
- The french toast is the best brunch dish at Frankie's in Brooklyn [Eat it Brooklyn]
- Top ten dessert places in New York City [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 13, 2008 at 7:00 PM
A taste of autumn. Photograph by Tam
Thanksgiving Food & Wine Tasting
Saturday, November 15, 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Learn how to pair wines with Thanksgiving classics and sample a variety of food and drink. The City Bakery will be providing tastes of turkey plus trimmings. And dessert! Free. Bottlerocket Wine & Spirit, 5 West 19th Street, New York NY 10011; 212-929-2323; event website
Healthy Taste of Corona Cookbook Launch Event
Sunday, November 16, 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Join the Queens Art Museum for food tastings and cultural performances in celebration of the cultural vibrance of Corona. Samples will showcase traditional foods that reflect the diversity of the neighborhood. Queens Art Museum, Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Queens NY 11368; 718-592-9700; event website
Five Senses Dinner Series: Taste
Sunday, November 16, 6:00 p.m to 10:00 p.m.
Blue Hill at Stone Barns' Executive Chef Dan Barber, with renowned food writer Harold McGee, is hosting a dinner focused on the theme of "taste." Tickets are $200/person and include a tasting menu, wine, and tip. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills NY 10591; 914.366.6200, ext. 110; event website
Meet-the-Farmer Dinner
Tuesday, November 18, 7:00 p.m.
Applewood will be serving a farmer-led dinner featuring the grass-fed beef of Hepworth Farm. Tickets are $85/person (plus tax and tip) and include a wine pairing. Applewood, 501 11th Street (nr. 7th Avenue), Brooklyn NY 11215; 718-788-1014; event website
Street Fair
Saturday, November 15
45th Street between 5th and 7th Avenues; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 13, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Last fall the Dessert Truck sold bomboloni—deep-fried vanilla pastry cream-filled brioche balls dusted with cinnamon and sugar—and now they're back! Co-founder Chris Chen says, "This is my favorite dessert!! Only a handful of restaurants serve this dessert, as each bomboloni ball is rolled out by hand, set out to rise, and then fried and filled individually."
Other new items on the menu include the dark chocolate mousse bombe and the PAMA pomegranate macaron. A trio of pomegranate treats are being sold for $3 until November 23 to raise money for City Harvest.
The Dessert Truck's location varies depending on the time of day. Check out their website for more information.
Related
Pumpkin Sugar Rush: Dessert Truck's Pumpkin Custard
An Inside Look at The Dessert Truck Throwdown with Bobby Flay
The Dessert Truck: For Desserts on the Go
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- Momofuku Bakery & Milk Bar will open to the public on Saturday morning [Eater]
- Alex Raij's new tapas bar Txikito opens tonight [Grub Street]
- Enoteca DiPalo is set to open this weekend [Gothamist]
- Scientist are hoping that oysters will clean the filthy New York Harbor [Brooklyn Paper]
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In these hard times, the crew at the office here has noticeably cut back, brown-bagging it more often and looking for cheap eats. One of the deals Alaina discovered near HQ is the soup lunch at Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Company. For less than $5, you can get a soup (8 ounce, $2.50; 12 ounce, $3.50; 16 ounce, $4.50) with a mini bagel of your choice. The soups are surprisingly good—a rotating mix of interesting flavors: Yucatan chicken with lime and orzo, chicken pot pie, vegetable jambalaya, among others. Hits the spot when you've got short money. Brooklyn Bagel Company: 286 Eighth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (b/n 24th and 25th streets; map); 212-924-2824; brooklynbagelandcoffeecompany.com
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 13, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Photographs by Gastrodamus
With the possible exception of the Golden Shopping Mall’s Chengdu stall, Flushing’s Xiao La Jiao, or Little Pepper, is my favorite spot for Sichuan food. So when I heard that The Gastronauts would be hosting a 16-course dinner there with a heavy offal emphasis, I immediately RSVP’d.
The “club for adventurous eaters” dines monthly on offal and other bizarre treats at restaurants all over the city. “This started as six friends and now we’re bursting at the seams,” co-founder Benjamin Pauker told me. That was certainly the case Tuesday night. I’d never seen Xiao La Jiao so crowded. Nor had I ever seen so many non-Chinese in the house. What follows are the highlights of the dinner. It was rather hard to take notes with all that food flying around; think dysfunctional Thanksgiving dinner, but way spicier and way guttier. When I got home and looked in the mirror there was a faint red blotch of chili oil on the tip of my nose. Such is the frenzy that occurs when 40 or so like-minded eaters get together for a Sichuan blowout.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 13, 2008 at 9:45 AM
If this is bad then I don't want to be good.
Lost City posted a scathing critique of the Red Hook Fairway Cafe yesterday, calling it a "sad" and "abysmal failure." I'll admit I haven't been since the summertime, and when I did go the service was definitely lacking. But what about that lobster roll? So good, and so cheap. It should count for something. Maybe we could upgrade the place from "abysmal" to merely "bad."
Related
The $9 Lobster Roll at Fairway
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 12, 2008 at 6:05 PM
It's rarely an easy feat to pick and choose among desserts at Brooklyn's Sweet Melissa. With a dessert case oozing picturesque possibilities of Sour Cherry Clafoutis, Sweet Almond Bread Pudding, and Banana Cream Pie, I've oft found myself hovering in front of the glass case for a solid fifteen minutes pondering over which to call my own. Cookies and madeleines have disappointed in the past, but you cannot go wrong with the Lemon Meringue Tart, a butter-rich pate sucrée crust filled with curd hovering a lush balance between puckery tart and sweet. Whimsical dollops of soft meringue finish it off, adding a little creamy sweetness to bring the tart to full closure. For those who opt to stay, the dine-in sweets menu may tempt with a plethora of house made sundae creations, but stick with the baked desserts—they're a better deal for the dollar and immensely more satisfying to the tongue.
Sweet Melissa Patisserie
276 Court Street, Brooklyn NY 11231 (b/n Butler and Douglass Street; map)
718-855-3410
sweetmelissapatisserie.com
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- Boqueria Soho is indeed opening tonight [Grub Street]
- The Red Hook ball field vendors were such a big hit at the Brooklyn Based election night party, the Bell House is planning on bringing them back every once in awhile starting this weekend [Gowanus Lounge]
- The soul food restaurants in Harlem have seen better days [City Room]
- Chicago Chef Joel Dennis, from Tru, is now working at Adour [Eater]
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 12, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Cranberries: They're the neglected stepchild of the season. Their tartness pairs well with unctuous fat, and they're great piled on a bowl of ice cream.
A Hawaiian Plate: Validated by Obama when he proclaimed his longing for one last summer, the Hawaiian plate lunch consists of two scoops of white rice, a side of mayo-laden macaroni salad, and a protein, generally of the pan-Asian variety and slathered in brown gravy.
Frozen Dessert: Can save a logistically complicated Thanksgiving feast. Chocolate-pumpkin layer cake is a fine candidate for freezing.
Turkey Parts: Roasting a whole bird is so last year. Try braising thighs and breasts for maximum tenderness.
To Brine or Not to Brine?: The verdict: roast an unbrined turkey, make a pan sauce, and give the meat a nice bath.
Turkey Day Wine: Versatility and plenitude are what's important. You can't please everyone!
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Charcroute plate from Irving Mill. Photograph by Robyn Lee
- "To sample the dark essence of [Irving Mill's] meaty, calorie-rich repertoire have a bite or two of the spicy Peruvian-style pulled-pork sandwich, then order the 'charcroute plate,' which comes to the table in regal fashion on a large porcelain serving plate." [Platt; NYM]
- At Market Table the lamb chops come with "something that visually resembles polenta but isn’t as easily diagnosed. It’s a Gouda-potato fondue, and it’s terrific."
[Bruni; NYT]
- At Mai Thai in Sunset Park, "the northern Thai–composed salads are some of the menu's best offerings. The papaya salad is particularly dope, adding peanuts and miniature dried shrimp to the firm tendrils of green fruit for a triple crunch." [Sietsema; VV]
- "A luxurious roasted porcini starter—featuring an enormous meaty mushroom, rich fontina fonduta and a few aromatic black truffle shavings" is one of the best dishes at A Voce [Cheshes; TONY]
- The porchetta from Murray's Salami is "sliced thin, like prosciutto, [and] tastes a little like Italian-style pastrami, although it’s softer, silkier, fattier, and creamier than the delicatessen beef." [Richman; GQ]
- Plan on spending time in charcuterie country at Secession, like "the pâté de campagne aux noix - a coarse pork pâté with walnuts, parsley and garlic." [Restaurant Girl; NYDN]
- The most French choice at Cafe Boulud may be the "beef duo of braised short rib and seared hanger steak with pommes dauphine and bordelaise sauce." [Cuozzo; NYP]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 11, 2008 at 11:00 PM
Photographs by Robyn Lee
West Branch
2178 Broadway, New York, NY 10024 (b/n 77th and 76th; map); 212-777-6764
Service: Well-meaning and friendly if not quite polished yet
Setting: A felicitous if familiar combination of wood and leather that is refreshingly not overdesigned
Compare It To: Ouest
Must-Haves: cheddar gougeres, celeriac remoulade, duck confit, fries, crispy fried quail
Price: $20 (a burger or sandwich) to $55 (for three courses) a person
Grade: A-
In these uncertain, more-than-a little-scary times, we all tend to seek comfort wherever we go. And when we go out to eat these days, we'd like to be able to roll out of our houses and eat our comfort food in familiar, comforting environs, a place where the burgers are fine, the french fries are fresh, the salads are crisp and fresh, and the food is made with good ingredients, cooked with love and care, at restrained prices that reflect a reasonable price-value ratio. Not surprisingly, this combination is hard to find in any neighborhood, in or out of New York. But find it, I did, at The West Branch, Ouest chef-owner Tom Valenti's new restaurant located a stone's throw from our apartment.
The menu seamlessly weaves through France and Italy, but never feels in the least bit foreign.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 11, 2008 at 7:30 PM
Ibérico ham in Spain.
What's better than free expensive champagne and Iranian caviar? Free jamón ibérico de bellota! That's right. On Thursday afternoon from 3 to 7 p.m. at the new Murray's Real Salami at the Grand Central Market, a representative from Spanish food importer Fermin will be giving away slices of what is the best ham on earth. Here's an excerpt from the press release:
A representative from Fermin, the only company with FDA approval to export jamón ibérico de bellota from Spain, will provide free hand-sliced samples of this beluga caviar of cured meats to market shoppers. Retailing for $99.99 a pound at Murray’s Real Salami (one of the least expensive prices in town), jamón ibérico de bellota is produced from an ancient breed of black pigs that roam along the Southern border between Spain and Portugal, feasting exclusively on acorns. The meat is prized for its rich, nutty flavor, the product of the animal’s diet and the 36-month aging process the hams get.
If you have never tried it, you owe it to yourself to get to Murray's on Thursday.
Related
The Greatest Sandwich in New York (and Maybe the World)
Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?
Despaña: A Superb Secret Sandwich Spot
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 11, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photograph by Front Studio
I'll admit I know very little about these apple beignets that I saw on the Lunch with Front Studio blog, but the little information I do have (i.e. the photo) makes me know one thing: I want. "Apple slices dipped in dough and deep fried," the ladies of Front Studio do warn that "they are not meant to be ordered in a to-go fashion." Sounds like advice I will be putting to good use very soon.
Cafe Select
212 Lafayette Street, New York NY 10012 (b/n Broome and Spring; map)
212-925-9322
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- Russ & Daughters have launched a food blog [Lox Populi]
- Christopher Lee will be leaving Gilt to take over at Aureole [Diner's Journal]
- Delicastessen was closed yesterday because it had been robbed... again [Eater]
- Morton's will be opening its first Brooklyn location this month [Brooklyn Paper]
- Eater will get rid of the "Deathwatch" in a favor of a new column called "Rally Cry." Bruni says it's like "Freddy Krueger morphing into Florence Nightingale" [Eat Me Daily]
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Posted by Adam Kuban, November 11, 2008 at 4:45 PM
I've only had the porchetta from Porchetta that Ed Levine has brought in to the SE home office. It was amazing. Alan Richman's take makes me want to head over there for dinner tonight:
There’s not much in my culinary life I trust less than porchetta. (A corollary: almost all rolled-up, cooked meats served in restaurants aren’t as good as they sound.) Sometimes porchetta contains a few too many innards for my taste, but the real problem is dryness and toughness. Porchetta makes me wonder why Italians, who almost always make sense where food is concerned, bother with it at all.
At the restaurant, Sara Jenkins is the cook and her partners Dave Herman and Matthew Lindemulder the countermen, and a tiny menu is highlighted by the porchetta plate ($12), possibly the best under-$15 serving of food in Manhattan. Bonus: It’s served on piece of cheap, cheerful chinoiserie made in Falls Creek, Pennsylvania.
Here's what Ed had to say about the place back in late September: At Porchetta, the Namesake Dish Is Just About the Whole Deal
Porchetta
110 East 7th Street, New York, NY 10000 (b/n First Avenue and Avenue A; map)
212-777-2151
porchettanyc.com
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 11, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Walking down the quiet Eldridge Street in Chinatown at night—specifically the block below Canal Street—may feel a bit sketchy, but don't let that deter you from getting fresh noodles at prices unheard of in the rest of the city. Unlike some other hand-pulled noodle shops, Super Taste seems to have translated most, if not all, of their menu in English, which should erase most people's fears of not having access to everything they offer.
In my group of four, everyone ordered the knife-sliced noodles as opposed to the more well-known hand-pulled noodles. The way each type of noodle is made is self-explanatory. Hand-pulled noodles come out as thin, mostly uniform ropes due the skilled dough-stretching of the noodle maker, while knife-sliced noodles come out as erratic slivers of varying length and thickness. While I found the slippery knife-sliced noodles harder to pick up with my chopsticks, I liked them more than the hand-pulled for their chewiness. The bigger the wheat shavings, the better.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 11, 2008 at 11:30 AM
The latest issue of Edible Manhattan is now available! In the November/December 2008 issue you can read about baking supply paradise New York Cake and Baking Distributors, the diets of New York City Marathon runners, and what's cooking at Gracie Mansion. Other stories in the print edition include the benefits of eating dinner blindfolded, why Heritage Foods U.S.A. encourages Americans to eat rare breeds, plus a report from our own Ed Levine about his favorite salumeria
The magazine is available at many restaurants and stores, or you can subscribe online.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Photograph by Eating in Translation
Having walked past Cesare Casella's Salumeria Rosi many times in the last few weeks looking for signs of meaningful food activity, I can now happily report that it's open. Sort of. Casella is still waiting for the gas to be turned on, but in the meantime he and his merry band of cooks/slicers/counterpeople are slicing up superb aged prosciutto and fantastic hams and serving up wonderful Italian cheeses, salads and vegetables, Sullivan Street Bakery breads, and dried sausages from first-rate American purveyors like Salumeria Biellese.
Judging from the throngs of Italian food thrill-seekers that have poked their heads in wanting to know when Salumeria Rosi is going to be open, it seems like Casella has hit upon a concept that Upper West Siders will quickly embrace. What can I compare Salumeria Rosi to? Think of an Italian equivalent of Despaña.
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Foie gras terrine with golden pineapple. Photograph by The Wandering Eater
- The foie gras terrine with golden pineapple being served at Eleven Madison Park is "orgasmic" [The Wandering Eater]
- You can find great Slovak food at Koliba in Astoria [Joey in Astoria]
- August offers a brunch that is anything but generic [Food Mayhem]
- Jackson Diner, in Jackson Heights, has an "awe inspiring buffet" [Eat to Blog]
- On the weekends, Antigua Bagels & Deli serves Guatemalan food in Sunset Park [Eating in Translation]
- You can now get bon chon chicken at Boka in the East Village [Fork in the Road]
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Corey Kilgannon of the New York Times' blog City Room saw an old couple picking weeds off the grassy area lining the Long Island Expressway. What kind of weeds were they picking? Dandelion leaves, suitable for eating.
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 10, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Sweet freaks and chocolate fanatics in New York City filled Pier 94 this weekend in search of the latest trends in chocolate sweets and confections. This year's 11th Annual Chocolate Show was held in a significantly larger venue than previous years, so despite heavy crowds, space was never tight. Vendors gave out plenty of samples, some more generous than others.
The wide range in chocolate novelties—from the pig's bacon, to chocolate sake ganache, chocolate "sushi," and firecracker truffles—ensured a good time for those with an open mind and high sugar tolerance. The Viking Range demos featured appearances from an impressive repertoire of chefs—Nick Malgeri, François Payard, and Jacques Torres to name a few. Certain vendors from previous years were missing, including the much anticipated John & Kira, but we didn't dwell on the losses for long.
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- Delicatessen was closed by the cops this morning [Gothamist]
- PDT bartender (and good friend to Serious Eats) Don Lee won the East coast division of the Marie Brizard Cocktail Challenge [Metromix]
- Dean and Deluca's coffee shack in Soho was closed by the Department of Health [Eater]
- A new pomegranate flavor is about to unveiled at Pinkberry and Red Mango [Grub Street]
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 10, 2008 at 3:45 PM
Eater is all over the new Momofuku Milk Bar opening, posting plywood shots this morning and (more importantly to us) a copy of the full menu this afternoon. The menu is too deliciously overwhelming to even start discussing (you might as well just look at the whole thing), but out of all the soft serve flavors, cookies, cakes, pies, and breads, one thing did happen to stand out: "chorizo challah". Why stop there? Throw in some shrimp, and top the whole thing with bacon. And the fact that it's being served in a "milk bar" just makes it that much better. Amazing.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 10, 2008 at 2:45 PM
All effin-A's implied. Photograph by Greg Takayama
This past weekend Mitsuwa held its annual "Giant Bluefin Tuna Cut Performance." Figuring Mitsuwa would be even more frenzied than usual, we staked out our positions along the stage in advance of the demonstration. My co-conspirators Al and Greg took the front view; I took the side. (I haven't seen a crowd this urgent for blood 'n cutting since Ministry '92.)
But the strategy paid off. We made friends with one of the assistant butchers who offered to sell us the backbone for $2. A brief debate ensued about whether the length of it could be hauled home intact.
Read the whole story on Greg Takayama's blog and find out how we took our trophy home.
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 10, 2008 at 12:30 PM
The day after Frank Bruni's double-header review of Sushi Azabu (which our own Ed Levine wrote about) and Kanoyama, I began calling the latter on a daily basis. Not for a reservation though, I was after some of the fugu tempura that Bruni had talked up in an audio slideshow. For more than a week I called Kanoyama every day, only to be told each day that they didn't have fugu tempura. Then my luck changed, and I hastened down to the East Village to try the deadly blowfish. Kanoyama takes great pride in its presentation, and that basket had me thinking of some sort of Japanese Easter Bunny. Keeping the perfectly fried fish company were some green tea potato chips, thinly sliced radish and a bowl of green tea salt to sprinkle on the crunchy golden fugu.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 10, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Actress Patti Lupone ("Gypsy," "Evita") weighs in on her favorite theater district restaurant Esca in the New York Post:
"It's open after the theater. It has an Italian flavor, and it's primarily a fish restaurant. The wines are delicious, and the way that chef David Pasternack prepares that fish..."
She's right. Esca (full disclosure: I wrote a book with Pasternack) just might be America's best seafood restaurant. But just when I thought Patti was a serious enough eater to start posting for Serious Eats, she touted another well-known New York restaurant, La Goulue, which is most assuredly not in Esca's league:
"It's a real French restaurant. It has a great coq au vin, a great three-cheese souffle and great French bread. Everybody has a French accent, and I feel like I'm in Paris."
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 10, 2008 at 11:15 AM
Beets. Photograph by Ed Yourdon.
Thanks A Lot: Start stocking up for your Thanksgiving feast by ordering your bird and stuffing from Union Square Greenmarket's Quattro's, or talk to Violet Hill or Flying Pig about your holiday roast. The Greenmarket also has sweet and regular potatoes on offer so you can practice your holiday mash-and-marshmallow technique. [Lucy's Greenmarket Report]
Spotted!: The New York Observer declares the Meatpacking District's The Spotted Pit as the Number 3 top choice for a midnight meal in New York, citing its Greenmarket specials as a draw. [The New York Observer]
Beet This: Not Eating Out in New York supplies a recipe for simply roasted beets, and another suggestion for the beet greens that usually come attached at the greenmarket. [Not Eating Out in New York]
How Sweet: Daily Candy has added the term "Greenmarket produce crush," also known as Saturday mornings in Union Square, to its hip lexicon, cementing our suspicion that locovorism is officially cool. [Daily Candy]
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 10, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Shake Shack french fries. Photograph by Robyn Lee
Last Friday AHT founder Adam Kuban couldn't take it any more. He heard me complaining about the Shake Shack's frozen French fries once too often. "Ed," he said with a wry smile on his face. "Frozen french fries are your white whale." What exactly was he saying?
Well, the well-read Mr. Kuban was referring to the white whale Moby Dick. Basically, he was telling me that I was obsessed with frozen french fries the way Captain Ahab was obsessed with Moby Dick in Herman Melville's novel of the same name.
Why did Adam make that pronouncement? Is he right?
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 9, 2008 at 12:00 PM
New York Times
The Return of the Thanksgiving Breadbasket: More carbohydrates? Yes, please! Anadama loaves and crisp corn crackers do the trick.
The Epitome of Retro: A 1948 green goddess salad recipe marked the early days of the American salad obsession.
The Root Cellar: For economic and health reasons, a number of Americans are turning their basements into root cellars, places to stash what they freeze, dry, process and can themselves.
Quinoa Pilaf: This recipe with chick peas, pomegranate and spices is based on a Turkish pilaf traditionally made with rice or bulgur.
The Cybercafe: A musty business model allows gamers a way out of isolation and into social connection and bulgogi wraps.
Deer Hunting: Nostalgia and new laws in states like Minnesota, where a special extended deer season bans modern rifles but is open to muzzleloaders, has prompted a boom in popularity of guns long seen as obsolete.Venison, anyone?
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 8, 2008 at 4:40 PM
Nobu is notoriously expensive, and admittedly, I've only been to the London Nobu, which was thereby even more expensive. But it was great. So if you want to go raw without feeling as cut up by the prices as the fish on your plate, here is Nobu's recipe for a sashimi salad very similar to the one at the restaurant, with the signature dressing recipe attached. This dish is ideal if your pantry is already stocked with Asian staples like rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, wasabi powder, and soy sauce, and if you have a lot of leftover raw vegetables around: for example, this recipe calls for two radishes and one asparagus spear, both great ways to empty your fridge's veggie drawer. I don’t want to destroy the sanctity and integrity of the recipe, but I must recommend using veggies you already have on hand if you want to save some cents.
One sashimi salad at Nobu costs $21, plus tax and tip. This recipe serves 4.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 8, 2008 at 11:55 AM
"Fresh Giant Bluefin Tuna Cut Performance." Photograph by MidtownLunch
Come watch a 400-pound giant bluefin tuna get hacked! Mitsuwa, the New York–New Jersey area's largest Japanese shopping center, is hosting demonstrations at 12 p.m. and 3 p.m. Saturday, November 8 and Sunday, November 9. Enjoy fresh tuna nigiri 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and an exciting array of soups and snacks at the food court. Browse the aisles and stock up on fresh wasabi, baked goods, and singing rice cookers.
Three-dollar Mitsuwa shuttle buses leave every half hour from the Port Authority. Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of alcohol and appliances on Sundays, so be sure to plan accordingly if you intend to replenish your supply.
Mitsuwa
595 River Road, Edgewater NJ 07020 (map)
201-941-9113
mitsuwanj.com
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 7, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Photograph by Food in Mouth
Crumbs gave away thousands of cupcakes at 3 of their new locations this morning, and Danny from the blog Food in Mouth snagged one of their Baba Booey cupcakes (named after Howard Stern's radio show producer.) "Chocolate cake filled with peanut butter cream cheese. Covered with 1/2 chocolate cream cheese and 1/2 peanut butter cream cheese (frosted like a B&W cookie). Surrounded by mini peanut butter chips... and it's AWESOME." Crumbs has multiple location around the city. crumbs.com
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- The new Boqueria in Soho doesn't look like it's going to be ready to open on Wednesday [Eater]
- You can watch the Top Chef season premiere at Craftsteak on Wednesday night with Tom Collichio [The Feedbag]
- Tickets to the New York WhiskyFest are sold out [Malt Advocate via MetroMix]
- Gray’s Papaya is serving up Obama Dogs for 99-cents [Eater]
- Boar's Head has opened a deli in Downtown Brooklyn to study customers eating habits [Brooklyn Paper]
- The Cheyenne Diner still hasn't moved [Lost City]
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Stephanie Anne Goldberg visits May Wah, a Chinatown mock meat mecca that sells veggie versions of mutton, gizzards and shark's fin.
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 7, 2008 at 1:30 PM
For those who want to eat Thanksgiving dinner out, we gave you a list of restaurants serving special Thanksgiving Day menus. For those who wanted to eat in, but didn't want to cook, we pointed you to the take out feasts being offered by Momofuku and Hill Country. But what about the person who wants to eat Thanksgiving alone? We recommend Piece of Chicken in Hell's Kitchen, which is now taking orders for individually packaged Thanksgiving meals. $10 gets you turkey and gravy, apple raisin coconut stuffing, candied yams, macaroni and cheese, string beans, collard greens, turnips, cranberry sauce, and banana pudding. Don't want to eat alone? I'm sure they'll work out a family size order for you. They recommend you place your order before November 12th, but they will be taking orders up until 2 days before Thanksgiving. 362 West 45th Street, New York, NY 10036 (b/n Eighth and Ninth avenues; map); 212-582-5973
Related:
Piece of Chicken, A Dollar Restaurant in Hell's Kitchen
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Posted by Brian Halweil, November 7, 2008 at 12:45 PM
“If there’s anything on Earth meant to go together it’s potatoes and duck fat,” declares chef Jason Weiner of Almond and Almoncello (as well as the newly opened Manhattan branch of Almond on East 22nd Street). He dazzled attendees at the recent Outstanding in the Field dinner at EECO Farm in East Hampton, serving up bluefish escabeche, tomato salad, perfect peaches, duck fat–fried potatoes, and other items gathered just a few miles away.
A winemaker friend keeps threatening to organize a three-mile meal. He counts pork, potatoes, mushrooms and cauliflower as the ingredients that are grown within three clicks of the odometer. He plans to gather seawater for salt and cook with pork lard. The meal is a novelty, of course, but it’s also a simple way to hone his menu. It’s also a nice intro to the fall issue of Edible East End, released a couple weeks ago.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 7, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Adam Brandejs, Animatronic Flesh Shoe, 2004. Latex, steel, gear motors, printed circuit, Rio mp3 player, staples, and hair.
The Meat After Meat Joy show at the Daneyal Mahmood Gallery is an extravaganza of blood, sinew, stink, and fat.
Curated by Heide Hatry as a nod to her pig farming childhood, the show forces us to re-examine our relationship to meat, beyond supermarket shrinkwrap and styrofoam trays. These fetid works are meant to both intrigue and repel: Yes, meat is morbid, but it is also sensual, political, and absurdly comic. And you only have until next Saturday to see it in the flesh.
During our visit, the gallery owner gleefully recounted the hoohaa surrounding Betty Hirst's American Flag. The controversy was not so much political as it was malodorous. Created expressly for the show's opening, the meat flag was meant to rot in real-time.
As the gallery filled with visitors, the collective body heat accelerated the meat's rate of decay. The resulting stench overwhelmed and only worsened as days passed. Visitors compared it to a punch in the face as neighbors threatened legal action. The flag was finally encased behind glass. This curbed the stink and gave burrowing maggots room to wriggle.
Flesh and grubs, after the jump.
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 7, 2008 at 10:15 AM
When it comes to eating out at kosher restaurants I tend to stick to the holy trinity: deli, falafel and shwarma. Sure I’ve tried kosher Chinese, but once was enough. Kosher interpretations of other cuisines usually don’t translate very well. Nevertheless, when I saw Sandwich Bar’s menu of international schnitzels, I had to find out what it was all about. I know what you’re thinking, depending who you ask schnitzel has only two nationalities: Austrian or Israeli. The owners of this tiny spot in Kew Garden Hills take a more global approach to fried chicken cutlets. The menu boasts seven varieties, including Polish and Greek.
A closer look at the menu made me wonder what I was in for. The Polish variety was simply described as “double layered bread crumbs,” nothing terribly Polish sounding about that. The Greek has fresh garlic added to the bread crumbs, probably tasty, but not especially Hellenic. I opted for the Chinese, which had sesame mixed in with the breading. Again, not the most Chinese-sounding description in the world, but hope springs eternal in the stomach of this eater. I also liked the idea of Chinese, given how much time I spend in Flushing’s Chinatown which lies several miles north of Kew Gardens Hills.
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Pumpkin ravioli from Cafe Milano. Photograph by JordanaZ
- Cafe Milano makes a pumpkin ravioli with sage and parmesan sauce that you will pine for [New York Social Diary]
- At Amor Cubano in East Harlem you can get a "frita", Cuba's take on the hamburger [Eating in Translation]
- Bread has a $10 lunch special that involves a "hot bowl of tomato soup, and half a grilled panini served with a side salad" [Lunch Studio]
- The best dish at the Dressler is the "cider braised pork shank with cabbage, creamy spaetzle and whole grain mustard" [Eat it Brooklyn]
- The star at Kar Won is the roast pork [Word of Mouth]
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Posted by Tam Ngo, November 6, 2008 at 7:00 PM
Photograph by little miss amanda on Flickr
11th Annual Chocolate Show
Friday, November 7, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Saturday, November 8, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Sunday, November 9, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
The three-day Chocolate Show will feature demonstrations, samples from more than 60 exhibitors, and chocolate art, music, and fashion. Tickets are $28 for adults, free for up to two children under the age of 12. (Tickets for additional children are $8 each.) Pier 94, 711 12th Avenue (nr. 55th St.); 212-307-7171, event website
Tastings NYC
Friday, November 7, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Saturday, November 8, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Sunday, November 9, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Come to a gourmet food show replete with samples, gifts, and wine tastings. Tickets are $75/person/day, $80/person/day when combined with the Chocolate Show, or $95 for access to special events. Pier 94, 711 12th Avenue (nr. 55th St.); 212-307-7171, event website
Brooklyn Kitchen's Ramen-Off
Sunday, November 9, 7 p.m.
Brooklyn Kitchen celebrates its second birthday with a ramen-inspired cook-off. Have you ever wanted to bake a ramen pie? Creativity honored; prizes awarded. Bring an entry or come hungry. Free. Union Pool, 484 Union Avenue; Williamsburg; event website
Street Fairs
Saturday, November 8
University Place between Waverly and 14th Street; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Astor Place between Lafayette and Broadway; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sunday, September 9
Madison Avenue between 42nd and 57th Streets; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Tuesday, November 11
56th Street between Madison and 6th Avenues; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Broadway between Fulton and Battery Place; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Bacon, Beer, and Chutney
Monday, November 10, 7 p.m.
Enjoy bacon-friendly beers at Jimmy's No. 43. Josh Ozersky of The Feedbag and Wendy W. Smith of School House Kitchen will host a bacon, beer, and condiment tasting. Tickets are $45/person. 47 East 7 Street; event website via Feedbag
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 6, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Stacked between credit card bills and piles of magazines I'll never get around to reading, I received something in the mail last week that had me truly excited. Chocolate. More specifically, a sampling of chocolate bars from Berkshire Bark. Based in (you guessed it) the Berkshire Mountains, the chocolate bars are found at a host of shops in our city including Bierkraft, Fairway, Dean & Deluca, and Bedford Cheese Shop. There's a flavor to please each craving, whether it be "Pretzelogical" (pretzels, sea salt caramel and peanut butter enrobed in dark & milk chocolate), or "Jumpin's Java" (roasted almonds, espresso toffee, caramelized cocoa nibs, and crushed coffee beans in dark chocolate). I found the single white chocolate bar to be the most tame and least appealing with a muted mix of cashews, ginger, lemon zest and sea salt, though my personal favorite (pictured above) was, "Tropical Heat," a dark chocolate bar with roasted macadamia nuts, mango, papaya, pineapple, and coconut. But oh, it wasn't the simply the mix of dried fruits and chocolate that sold me, for that alone would be terribly boring. Rather, it was the liberal helpings of cayenne peppers and ancho chile powder infused into the bar which called out like a siren, a spicy glow verging on smoky.
Note: Berkshire Barks will also be present at this weekend's Chocolate Show New York.
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- Momofuku Milk Bar will open soon and feature "a selection of flavored milks in addition to multiple soft serve ice cream flavors, variations on the Momofuku steamed bun, and 'nontraditional' pastries, breads, cakes, desserts and cookies" [Eater]
- Robert Sietsema is going to start blogging regularly on Fork in the Road [Fork in the Road]
- Is Salumeria Rosi opening tomorrow... [Strong Buzz]
- ... or on the 14th? [Eater]
- Casa Havan is offering a 20 cent breakfast, although it's not clear if it's every day or just a one day stunt [Fork in the Road]
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 6, 2008 at 2:00 PM
From left: Photograph from ExperienceLA on Flickr; Photograph from jpwbee on Flickr
If you want a bird that didn't get hauled from who-knows-where only to be brutally shrinkwrapped and injected with antibiotics, Brooklyn Based dug up some options for locally-raised, happy turkeys.
Tamarack Hollow Farms (a stall at Union Square) is run by a former vegetarian, so the birds are definitely treated well. DiPaolo's (at Greenmarkets all over the city) has big fat ones the size of toddlers. For a heritage turkey (they went extinct in the 1990s, but are making a comeback on small farms), try HeritageFoodsUSA directly.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 6, 2008 at 12:45 PM
Crumbs Bake Shop is giving away 1,000 free cupcakes this Friday, November 7, to celebrate the openings of their new stores and to reward New Yorkers for voting this week. Starting at 8 a.m., these three Crumbs location in the city are giving away cupcakes (one per person):
- Madison: 501 Madison Avenue (at 52nd Street; map)
- Lexington: 1418 Lexington Avenue (at 93rd Street; map)
- Union Square: 124 University Place (b/n 13th & 14th Street; map)
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Posted by Zach Brooks, November 6, 2008 at 11:15 AM
If you are curious about Dirt Candy, the hip new vegetarian restaurant by former Pure Food and Wine chef Amanda Cohen, than check out the blog Umamimart. They have posted a great first look at some of the food being served, like jalapeno hush puppies with maple butter, and stone ground grits with pickled shiitake and a tempura poached egg. I may love meat, but not a single one of the dishes they tried looked anything less than amazing.
Dirty Candy
430 E. 9th Street (nr. First Avenue; map)
212-228-7732
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Time Out New York's Feed Blog is reporting that Chef Alex Raij, formerly of Tia Pol and El Quinto Pino, "will open Txkito (that’s chee-kee-to), a Basque pintxos bar with her husband Eder Montero (also a Tia Pol vet)." According to the post, the restaurant will open "later this fall" on Ninth Avenue between 24th and 25th streets, just across the way from Jim Lahey's new pizza place.
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Tomato mozzarella. Photograph by L Bo Dee
- You can get mozzarella that is still warm to the touch at DiPalo's [Food Mayhem]
- The toroniku ramen at Minca is filled with big fatty pork chunks [Girl Who Ate Everything]
- You can get Jia Jian Mein at Lan Zhou Hand Pulled Noodles [Passion For Food]
- Pork intestine and stomach country style, is one of the dishes you can enjoy at Ollie's [Eating in Translation]
- At Kampuchea, the grilled corn with spicy mayo and coconut is genius [Eat to Blog]
- Anybody know where to find "Piccia Calabrese" bread in New York? [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 5, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Our ten days of Pumpkin Sugar Rushes are over, but that doesn't mean I have any intention of stopping my consumption of pumpkin desserts. After all, the season doesn't last forever! Whether it be the pumpkin cocktail over at PDT, or Tafu's Wabi-Sabi tea-infused pumpkin cupcakes, there is absolutely no shortage of pumpkin sweets in our city. The newest dessert to join the seasonally inclined roll of Otto gelatos is the pumpkin copetta. Generous scoops of positively silky and delicately spiced gelato, concocted from sweet Cheese Pumpkins, are piled above nutty almond crumble. It then gets topped with whole buttered pecans, cherries for a puckery tart, and a plush finish of mascarpone crema. Not pumpkin-related, but also of note is that our chilly weather has finally ushered back in the warm mugs of Gianduja Chocolate (buttery shortbread included!) onto the menu at Otto. Almost makes you wish it was winter all year long…
Otto
One Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map)
212-995-9559
ottopizzeria.com
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- Five underground supper clubs will unite for one giant $125 meal [Eater]
- A new Soho branch of Boqueria will open next week [Grub Street]
- Open Table offering special prix fixe menus at participating restaurants on the week of November 17th [Open Table]
- Newark will be getting a wallet size Zagat Guide before the end of the year [NYP]
- There was a fire at Paloma last night, Top Chef alum Camille Becerra's restaurant in Greenpoint [NY Press]
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 5, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Click here for a larger photo of the menu.
I've been to Lan Zhou (also known as Nam Zhou) in Chinatown for hand-pulled noodles twice so far, and neither time was I able to read the Chinese menu. While the most popular items may have been translated into English, it looked like slim pickings compared to the Chinese menu. Stupidly, I only just realized that my mom knows Chinese and I could just ask her to translate the menu. So, thanks to Mama Lee, you now have a more complete Lan Zhou menu, after the jump.
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 5, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Images of last year's Chocolate Show, from Robyn Lee
The best place to satisfy your sweet tooth this weekend would be none other than the annual New York Chocolate Show. Held at Pier 95 at 711 12th Avenue (at 55th Street), festivities begin with an opening night preview on Thursday, followed by the Chocolate Show Friday through Sunday. Buy your tickets in advance or at the door (cash/check only) for $28, or $250 for the opening night preview.
At last year's show we had more than our fair share of chocolate, sampling a plethora of sweets, cakes, brownies, truffles, barks, and liquids—all in the name of chocolate, of course. This year's show promises to be great fun for both the eating opportunities and culinary demos from famous chefs, including François Payard and Matt Lewis (of Baked). See you there! And if not, you can live vicariously through our full event coverage, going up on Monday.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 5, 2008 at 12:45 PM
One perk/hazard of working at Serious Eats is the regular stream of free food that falls into our sedentary blogger laps. Sometimes the food isn't exciting, but other times we get boxes of adorable mini-cupcakes that are so perfectly formed that they look like they could've been craved out of angels' bellies. And by "other times" I mean "one time," when Betsy Thorleifson of Brooklyn-based Nine Cakes dropped off two boxes of her two-bite (or one, if your mouth is large enough) cupcakes, each box containing two flavors and 12 cakes.
After reading Ed's optimal cupcake attributes in his review of Chikalicious Dessert Club, Betsy felt compelled to bring us her cupcakes to test against his list.
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 5, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Yelp: You too can be a restaurant critic. Yelp boasts 4 million written reviews and 15 million visitors a month, although "sites with higher gastronomic pretensions" like "Serious Eats tend to be dismissive."
Chocolate Entrepreneurs: A group of cacao farmers in Ecuador cut out the middlemen and started making and marketing their own chocolate. Kallari bars are named for the cooperative they formed.
Taking Champagne Back to Its Roots: Small producers like Anselme Selosse are intent on restoring the ideas of vineyard, terroir and wine to the perception of Champagne. (It's not just about glitz!)
Simon Hopkinson: The English chef, author of the “most useful cookbook of all time,” has written an even juicier sequel.
Junk Food: Tough economic times raise the question: how much does it really cost to eat a healthy diet?
More Bad News about Big Food Production : Fifty percent or more of the diversity of chicken ancestral breeds has been lost, making chickens more susceptible to disease outbreaks.
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Ahi tuna appetizer from Bobo. Photograph by JordanaZ
- The stand out pork belly at Bobo is "cut into strips [and] interlaced with similar size strips of crackling, which just barely crest the surface of a lemon grass broth" [Bruni; NYT]
- At No. 7 in Fort Greene the best entree is the "so-called roast chicken—really a scrumptious roulade with crisp skin on the outside, resting in a truffle jus that owed nothing to the synthetic truffle oil used in so many restaurants." [Sietsema; VV]
- At Corton, "the squab is rare, wrapped in bacon, with a squab leg on the side. And tender pork belly. And chestnut cream (studded with black truffles). And a foamy spiced milk." [Sutton; Bloomberg]
- At Double Crown you can get "sticky pork belly... tossed with cilantro, mint and a Vietnamese-style caramel glaze" and “'pigs in a wet blanket'—spicy-sweet sausages stuffed into lychees." [Cheshes; TONY]
- At Allegretti "red wine-marinated, braised short ribs meet their match in Jerusalem artichoke puree that's unafraid of cream and butter, and as smooth and commanding as a great Mexican mole." [Cuozzo; NYP]
- At Busscao they serve "baby chicken and vanilla-scented waffles topped with caramelized apple-onion butter." [NYDN]
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Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 4, 2008 at 6:00 PM
No stranger to desserts, olive oil is almost a mainstay in sweets throughout New York—be it the famed Olive Oil Gelato of Otto, the Olive Oil Cake with Riesling Poached Peaches from Terrior, or the Chocolate-Ricotta Tortino with Pistachios and Olive Oil at Del Posto.
But sometimes an olive oil treat takes you by surprise and reminds you once again just how lovely it shines in sweets. Simple is best, and a sunny, golden slice of Abraço's Olive Oil Loaf is just that. Pleasing to the eye, a single $3-slice is far from the typical "light" and "fluffy" adjectives we associate with cakes. Abraço's slice conjures up descriptors like moist and luxuriously dense. The loaf is only a touch sweet, with the ever-present taste of olive oil—ideal for when you crave baked goods but not sugar. The loaf satisfies in a way a triple-frosted cake cannot.
Abraço
86 E 7th Street, New York NY 10003 (at 1st Avenue; map)
212-388-9731
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- Keith McNally says he will not sell his restaurant empire to a company that wants to open Balthazars around the world [NYP]
- Zenkichi has unveiled their winter garden [The Feedbag]
- By 10:45 p.m. last night Momofuku had run out of bone marrow, brains, tails and snails [Grub Street]
- GustOrganics has opened the first certified organic bar in the world [Strong Buzz]
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If you don't want to be alone tonight, there are plenty of public locations where you can celebrate, or drown your sorrows. Eater has a fancy map of 15 places to go in Manhattan and Brooklyn (compiled from posts on four other sites). Wherever you end up, one thing is for certain... we're all getting to work late tomorrow.
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Posted by Robyn Lee, November 4, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Kathy Chan and I recently brought you our picks for the best doughnuts in New York City, but the post doesn't encompass all the doughnuts we ingested for your benefit. There were more. Many more. Many more that ranged from, "Eh, it's okay," to, "Oh god, this can't be a doughnut."
Here are the worst offenders.
Pretty Much Every French Cruller
Kathy mentioned that we bought French crullers from Mike's Donuts, 7th Ave Donuts, Donut Pub, and Peter Pan, but didn't describe how bad they were. I still remember my first bite of the one from Mike's Donuts and thinking, "Is this doughnut full of cream? No... that's the batter. The not-really-cooked batter." Each one after Mike's was less offensive, but by the time we reached Peter Pan they had all disappointingly lacked a crispy exterior. Maybe it was just a bad day for French crullers.
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Posted by Nick Solares, November 4, 2008 at 9:40 AM
Serious eaters descended on Momofuku Noodle Bar last night to sample the offal offerings of nose to tail dining pioneer Fergus Henderson. Hot on the trotters of his reported command performance at The Spotted Pig on Sunday night, Henderson, aided and abetted by Momofuku kingpin David Chang and his brigade, turned out an inventive and challenging ten item menu laced with all manner of esoteric fare. Chitterlings, lamb brains, pig tails, cheeks and trotters all graced the menu to the delight of the droves of NYC foodies who started to line up well in advance of the 5 p.m. opening.
I was able to get to Momofuku Noodle Bar early enough to make the first seating. I went alone and was fortunate that I was seated next to Ed O. I had never met Ed before but when we were seated together, and I realized that he was also going solo, I immediately asked him if he would like to share a few dishes. "I was about to ask you the same thing" he chortled in reply. Great minds think alike. Of course so do the criminally glutenous and we proceeded to order virtually the whole Fergus Henderson menu. It turns out Ed has a refined palate and a genuine appreciation for food. We ate our way, quite literally, from one end of the pig to the other, with a few other animals thrown in for good measure.
Here is what we ate:
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Fried squid legs from Village Yokocho. Photograph by wEnDaLicious
- You can get a colada morada in Union City, New Jersey [Eating in Translation]
- At Korhogo 126 you can get escargot kedjenou, a a tomato-based Cote d’Ivoire preperation [Goodies First]
- You can get election cookies at the Treats Truck in Midtown [Treats Truck]
- The venison with rapini and potato pave at Applewood are very good [Life With Food and Drink]
- A list of slightly under the radar bakeries [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 3, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Decadent isn’t the first word that usually comes to mind when thinking of matzo. Austere is more like it. Nevertheless decadent is a perfect one-word description of the dark-chocolate and toffee-enrobed matzo I scored at Russ & Daughters the other day. It’s so good that it has me pounding my fist on the desk with glee. Who cares if crumbs get in the keyboard. This is surely not your grandmother’s chocolate-covered matzoh. For that matter it’s not my grandmother’s chocolate-covered matzoh, either. She was Sicilian.
I’ve had chocolate-covered matzoh before, but never quite like this. It’s crunchy, sweet, salty and chocolaty. It’s what a Skor bar wants to be when it grows up. And it is a grown-up treat, complete with just a hint of sea salt sprinkled on top. R&D started selling the matzo about a month ago, right before the Jewish holidays, according to Niki Russ-Federman. At $4.50 a half they’re not cheap, but I think they’re well worth it. They come to R&D from a small company called Matzel Toff. “People tend to think of matzoh as something you have to eat out of necessity, so it's a great surprise to have it taste so good. You could eat this any time of day, month or year, not just for Passover.” Amen, sister.
Russ & Daughters
179 E. Houston Street, New York NY 10002 (map)
212-475-8880
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Zach Brooks is at Momofuku Noodle Bar right now, waiting to be fed by famous London chef Fergus Henderson. At 5 p.m., 50 people were in line. At 5:38 p.m., a table for four. Wait time, one hour.
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- Murray's Salami has opened in the Grand Central Market [Eater]
- DiPalo's set to unveil their new wine shop this weekend [Grub Street]
- Friedman's Deli in the Chelsea Market plans on going completely gluten free [The Feedbag]
- Every Wednesday between now and the end of the year, Mermaid Inn will be offering a classic New England Fish Fry [Strong Buzz]
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Her time: 4:28:20! Her post-run dinner? Shake Shack, where she ate one (only one!?!) Shackburger. She reports that the Shack had a special protein shake going yesterday. Congrats, Alaina! The training paid off.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 3, 2008 at 2:00 PM
Rafael Soler of Soler Dominican pupusa fame; tacos; pupusas grilling.
It's natural to wonder what street vendors do at night. When they start breaking down the trucks, it's tempting to invite them over for a drink, or share very personal American moments with them.
Turns out you can spend election night with the Red Hook ball field vendors at the Bell House in the Gowanus neighborhood of Brooklyn. The free Red + Blue Election Night Party will feature a menu of pupusas from Vendy Awards finalist Rafael Soler, tacos from Fernando Martinez, and huaraches from Eleazar Perez. Reasons why this is awesome: it's not even ball season anymore, it's at night, and at a spot slightly more convenient than Red Hook.
Brooklyn Based is also promising red and blue cupcakes, and there will be a Weezer cover album playing songs from the "Blue Album." The party starts at 7 PM, and last until it ends. The Bell House: 49 7th Street, Brooklyn NY 11215 (between 2nd and 3rd Avenues; map).
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, November 3, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Potatoes. Photo by ExperienceLA
P is for ...: Packed cannellini, tarbais, borlotti, and flageolet beans; hot peppers; and sweet and ordinary varieties of potato at the Union Square Greenmarket [Lucy's Greenmarket Report]
Fit to be Pied: Concord grapes from the Union Square Greenmarket add the perfect attraction to fall's traditional apple pie [Not Eating Out in New York]
Hot is Hot: Celebrity chef Alexandra Guarnaschelli of Food Network's The Cooking Loft, who visits the Union Square Greenmarket every Wednesday, is termed a "Greenmarket obsessive." She ate chicken braised in a variety of this week's hot chilies for dinner at her restaurant Butter this last Wednesday [Grub Street]
Greenmarket without Roots: Bay Ridge's nascent greenmarket in the parking lot of the defunct Key Food on 3rd Avenue and 94th Street is searching for a permanent home to maintain its locally adored existence [New York Times]
Did any of you attend last's week's Taste of the Greenmarket? Tell us how it was!
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 3, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Clockwise from top left: Mike Psilakis, Thomas Keller, Tom Valenti, and Daniel Boulud.
Tonight at 6 p.m. at the Union Theological Seminary (3041 Broadway at 121st Street) I will be eating a phenomenal pre-Thanksgiving buffet prepared by some of the world's greatest chefs. And you can join me to eat seriously at the annual Thanks for Giving Feast by plunking down $125 (per ticket) to support the Association to Benefit Children (ABC), a truly great organization that I helped create this event for six years ago.
What is ABC and what does it do?
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UWS Shake Shack goodness. Photograph by Tien Mao
- You can get a decent Pad Kee Mao at Pam Real Thai [Food in Mouth]
- The "Wagyu Beef Cheesesteak" is one of the best dishes at Degustation [Food Mayhem]
- Cafe LuLuc is much better for brunch than it is for dinner [Eat It Brooklyn]
- You can get mango ice cream and shaved ice at DeliManJoo [Feisty Foodie]
- A list of places where you can find dried porchini mushrooms [SE:NY Talk]
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Posted by Hannah Howard, November 2, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Wrapped in Prosciutto: It's an easy way to up a dish's elegance factor.
Brownie Wars: The frustrating thing about serving brownies to Germans is that they insist on eating them with a fork. The chocolaty bar both divides and unites.
Stand for Something. Drink for Something: This season’s wave of election-themed cocktails bring politics to the bar. Curaçao-spiked Obama Cocktail, anyone?
Loss Leader: Cookstr, is a website that gives away recipes in hopes you'll buy the book.
Breaking Out the Barley: Savory baked apples topped with barley pilaf are a lovely, autumnal dish.
Chef Dan Barber Does Pumpkin: Barber urges us to buy our pumpkins from farmer’s market (grocery store pumpkins "taste like cardboard") and shares a recipe for pumpkin seed brittle.
Soft Tacos: These are stuffed with mushrooms, onion, and chipotle.
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Posted by Ed Levine, November 2, 2008 at 12:00 PM
Grant Achatz, Nathan Myhrvold.
On Wednesday night I attended a panel discussion that explored the ways that science and technology are transforming our notions of food and technology. The participants were Alinea's Grant Achatz, a newly minted author whose book we wrote about here) and former Microsoft chief technology officer Nathan Myhrvold, a food- and cooking-obsessed futurist. It was moderated by Wired senior editor Mark McClusky. It was a lively, informative, and, as you can imagine, extremely heady panel. There was even a fair amount of humor mixed in with the high-planed back and forth.
What do Achatz and Myhrvold think of molecular gastronomy as a name? Not much. What would they rather call it?
"Technoemotional cooking." Or maybe "modernist cuisine."
Technoemotional sounds like a band, doesn't it? Serious eaters, what would you rename the molecular gastronomy movement? We'll send the best name on to Grant Achatz and and Nathan Myrhvold and see what they think.
After the jump, the rest of the conversation's greatest hits.
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