PrintSugar Rush: Strudel and Kugelhopf from Andre's Cafe
A couple of years ago Nora Ephron wrote a hilarious piece for the New York Times Op-Ed page about her search for cabbage strudel. I had a bit part in the story as the person who told her where she could find cabbage strudel, namely Andre's Hungarian Bakery in Rego Park, Queens, a direct descendant of the legendary Mrs. Herbst's. Andre opened a cafe and bakery on the Upper East Side a couple of years ago, and I found myself there a couple of weeks ago. I bought a half-strip of buttery cheese strudel and a chocolate kugelhopf, which I have always described as a babka baked in a bundt pan.
The strudel was solid, though not quite as good as I remembered (the strudel dough wasn't quite as delicate as I expected). Ditto for the kugelhopf, which had a slightly grainy chocolate filling. Next time I'm ordering the cinnamon-raisin kugelhopf and the cabbage strudel, just to make Nora happy.
Andre's Cafe
1631 2nd Avenue, New York NY 10028 (at 85th Street; map)
212-327-1105
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1 Comment:
I'll look forward to trying Andre's but the only bad food memory that I have of my Hungarian grandmother is walking in the house after school and the wave of horrific cabbage odor that would smack me and my brothers in the face. It meant that a) relatives were on the way over b) cabbage strudel would be part of the menu. On the other hand, it also meant that our reward for helping to pull the strudel dough into paper-thin sheets was that our grandmother would trim the edges, bake the narrow strips of dough, and layer them with vanilla pastry cream in what seemed like a foot-tall pile. No dessert I've ever eaten could match how good that tasted.
Scottzel at 11:14AM on 10/11/08