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'New York Times' Dining Roundup

20080910nytimesroundup.jpg

Local Flour: Nearly all of the nation’s wheat is grown on agribusiness fields and milled in big Midwest factories. Over the past few years, farmers and millers have started to restore wheat fields and revive flour mills to produce high-quality, small-batch flours.

A Productive and Delicious Marriage: Marcella Hazan’s husband, Victor, wrote every word of English in her six Italian cookbooks. Now, he has translated her memoir.

Zero Stars to Michael’s: Breakfast is the only decent fare from Michael’s in Midtown, a “nexus of influence and affluence and fodder for Page Six.”

A Radical Winemaker: Scholium Project, in the Suisun Valley, just east of Napa Valley, uses experimental techniques to make some far-out vinos.

Soup in Summer: Late summer, with all its ripe veggies and abundant herbs, is ideal soupmaking season.

Plum Sauce: An uncooked version preserves the freshness of the fruit and can be thrown together with just a cutting board and blender.

Shirataki Craze: Spaghetti-shaped noodles made of tofu and yam flour are selling like hotcakes, thanks to help from Lisa Lillien of Hungry Girl, the mini dieting empire. She suggests serving the low-calorie noodles with various low-fat cheeses as a kind of imitation diet pasta Alfredo.

1 Comment:

The article about flour says that "Advocates of local foods have bemoaned the state of mass-produced flour, even from higher-end brands. Midwestern wheat has been bred for uniformity and yield instead of flavor or nutrition, they say, and processed for shelf stability."

What, if any, are the nutrient and taste differences? How do we know that they come from the grain and soil differences and not differences in handling, freshness, and perception?

I'd love to see a Cooks Illustrated style taste test across these artistically made flours.

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