Fantastic Lamb Noodle Soup Returns to Golden Shopping Mall

Long before the New York Times wrote about the wonderful regional Chinese fare available in the food court of Flushing’s Golden Shopping Mall serious eaters were abuzz about the fantastic lamb noodle soup available in a joint across from a hairdresser on the food court’s upper level. It was a wondrous concoction of hand-pulled noodles along with chunks of meat and other goodies. Sadly the place closed last summer. Every now and then I’d go back to see if it was reopening. Eventually I gave up and started focusing my eating on the food court’s lower level. The other day I decided to give it another shot. As I approached the hairdresser I noticed a day-glow orange sign, in Chinese. In between the two lines of characters was the English translation: lamb noodle soup.

As I opened the door I was met with the hunger-inducing aroma of the soup: It was like lamb aromatherapy. The new owners told me they hailed from a region of China called Henan and that they’d been open for two months. I watched in awe for a while as the lady behind the counter took flat noodles that started out at about six inches in length and tossed them in the air pulling them until they were some three feet long. My reverie was broken by hunger pangs and I ordered a large bowl for $5.

That bowl of noodles was quite a mouthful, as is its Chinese name: zhe bu yang rou hui mian. In addition to hand-pulled noodles and lamb, there were translucent bean thread noodles and long, thin slices of dried tofu cut to the thickness of soba. Bobbing in the milky broth along with the fat-fringed pieces of meat were all manner of fragrant vegetables and herbs: cilantro leaves, lily bulbs, Chinese wolfberries and black tree fungus. A little bit of the smoky chili paste helped to bring everything together. It was just as good as I remembered it from the old place, perhaps even better. One caveat: there really is no delicate way to eat noodles that long, you just have to dig in and slurp away.
Lamb Noodle Soup
Golden Shopping Mall Food Court (upper level opposite hairdresser at back)
41-28 Main St, Flushing NY 11355 (map)
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9 Comments:
Is the stall owned and operated by the same people who were at the old one? The one that got all the buzz is now in a different mall.
http://www.eatingintranslation.com/2008/05/qins-lamb-noodl.html
kathryn at 12:30PM on 09/15/08
Nope, different folks, great soup though.
Joe DiStefano at 12:35PM on 09/15/08
See, you got me all confused with the headline! "Fantastic Noodle Soup" was the de facto name of the place on Chowhound back when nobody knew what to call it.
kathryn at 12:37PM on 09/15/08
very exciting news. thanks. when you say the broth is milky, is that because it's made from the bones?
ninalalli at 1:35PM on 09/15/08
@Nina: Not quite sure if the broth is made with bones or not; It is milky colored though
@Kathryn: I could see how you could be confused, but the de facto CH name was actually Fantastic Big Flat Lamb Noodle Soup. In any case, it's some kick-ass soup and, yes I have been to the new location and find that the version in Golden Shopping Mall is actually better.
Joe DiStefano at 2:02PM on 09/15/08
wow. visiting new york this weekend. must have.
ChiefHDB at 7:52PM on 09/15/08
@Joe: awesome, thanks. I'll have to make sure I visit next time I'm in the area. Mmmmmm. Do you remember what stall number it was?
kathryn at 10:58AM on 09/20/08
@Kathryn: Don't know the stall number, but it's on the upper level. Go to the very back. You'll see a currency exchange on your left. Just past that is a hairdresser. Soup folks are across the way on the right. Last time I was there they were frying long, green hot peppers that they planned to stuff. Must go back to try them.
Joe DiStefano at 11:04AM on 09/20/08
What's up with the bones? how much do they cost and how awesome are they? how do they cook them? I saw one caveman munching on them and I was jealous.
jeffsayyes at 5:05PM on 02/07/09