Convivio, his soulful L'Impero makeover, totally rocks. What is a shocker is that curmudgeonly New York Magazine restaurant critic Adam Platt actually sounds as if he really enjoyed eating at the restaurant. In fact, Adam's review sounds suspiciously like a rave to me, even though he only bestowed three stars (out of five) on it. 48 Tudor City Place, New York NY 10017 (nr. 42nd; map) 212-599-5045

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