The Catch's Flying Fish Cutter is a Serious Sandwich
I don’t usually jump up and down about fried fish sandwiches. I can’t even remember the last time I had one, but the other day I was taken to new heights by the flying fish cutter at The Catch, a cozy spot in St. Albans, Queens that specializes in Bajan cuisine, the food of Barbados. At the borough’s only Bajan eatery, the Cutting family (no relation to the name of the sandwich) has proudly done the dining room up in the blue and white colors of their home country’s flag.
The flying fish cutter landed at the table with a giant tongue-like fried fillet sticking out of the pillowy salt bread. Nestled beneath the sandwich was yet another fillet. I really wanted to cram both of the crunchy, golden marvels into the salt bread, but I was dining with friends and decided to share. After all, I’m not a glutton. So I folded the one that was already on the bread in half, anointed it with a splash of yellow Bajan hot sauce and got down to business. I omitted the greenery, so as better to enjoy the fish.
After one bite it becomes apparent why this place is called The Catch: The folks in the kitchen know the creatures of the deep as well as they know the deep fryer. The crunchy, greaseless batter encasing the moist fish was a perfect contrast for the soft salt bread, which strangely enough was not salty at all. The whole affair was enhanced by the hot sauce, which gets its yellow color from mustard. The combination of ketchup (a classic condiment) and the flavor of clove helped make the crunchy coating taste perfect.
The Catch offers flying fish on Fridays and Saturdays, but if you call ahead Vicki Cutting will gladly defrost some for you. Or better yet, head out there this Friday for the restaurant’s last Fish Fry Friday of the season.
The Catch Restaurant
114-32 Farmer's Boulevard, St. Albans, NY 11412; (map)
718-264-7600
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